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Question about Mounting Dillon 550b

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by cabrego, Jan 26, 2012.


  1. cabrego

    cabrego
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    Hey guys,
    I have a question about the dimensions/mounting the Dillon 550b, and because my unit is still en route I figured I would ask you fine folks.

    To cut to the chase, I guess I need to know the distance between furthest bolt hole and the edge of the table of you assume the dillon 550b was mounted with out the strong support.

    I need to know this because I am having a work bench built and I need to make sure when I got to bolt down the Dillon unit it does not interfere with any of the finishing boards I may have in that area.

    Hope my question makes sense, if not let me know.
    Thanks,
     

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  2. BIGGUNS911

    BIGGUNS911
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    Looking at my unit mounted, the back of the press is 4" from the side of the table. The rear bolt holes are about 3.5" from the side of the table. Per Dillons owners manual you should give your self at least 12" on both sides. Also keep in mind the finished bullet shoot and tray will be mounted on the right side of the press. You will also need 3/4 of an inch in over hang space. Do not put any thing that will make the edge of the table less than square, I.e. trim or rounded off edges. Good luck and congratulations on the new press.!
     

  3. cabrego

    cabrego
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    Ok great- I have 4 inches of clear overhang so I think I should be good!


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  4. IndyGunFreak

    IndyGunFreak
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    KO Windows

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    4in? I hope that's not to much.
     
  5. shotgunred

    shotgunred
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    reloading nut

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    If you have 4 inches of overhang you are going to need a strong top. Simple 3/4 inch plywood is going to flex as you work the press.
     
  6. cabrego

    cabrego
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    Yes the top is 3/4 plywood and the dimension will be 72"x35" with 4x4 leg wrapped with 1x6 on top for bracing. Bottom will be braced with 2x4". I was planning on 4 inch overhang to accommodate the 550b, do you guys think this will work?


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  7. unclebob

    unclebob
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    Personally I do not think it will work. I think you will have too much flex. I would add another sheet of plywood. I would move the top back so that you have two bolts in front of the cross member and two bolts behind the cross member. Also I would use MDF on top. Makes for a nice clean smooth surface. Also water will not affect it also, like plywood. Also make sure the top is very well attached to the bench. Also if you can attach it to the wall and flooring if possible.
     
  8. cabrego

    cabrego
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    Thanks for the input. The bench has not been built yet so I have time to tweak the design. If I had the unit here I could get precise measurements of the front and rear bolt holes. I've been told the rears are at 3.5" what about the front maybe 1.5"??

    Maybe I can stick with something like 1 inch overlap?
     
  9. unclebob

    unclebob
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    How high are you making the bench? I would highly recommend that you load standing. Also using a strong mount would be a viable option.
     
  10. cabrego

    cabrego
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    The surface of the table will be 39".
     
  11. HexHead

    HexHead
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    I'm using the strong mount. The front bolts are going through the steel frame of my bench.
     
  12. SigFTW

    SigFTW
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    On my table (I use as a bench) I added a piece of plywood under the strong mount to strengthen the mounting, it worked really well. Also, make sure you have some weight to the bench, or are able to secure it to the wall or floor. It's not fun reloading on a shaky bench.
     
  13. cabrego

    cabrego
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    Spoke with Dilon Precision and they gave me the dimensions:

    First Hole: .550"
    Second Hole: 3.35"

    Does that sound right to you guys?
     
  14. PCJim

    PCJim
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    If it came from Dillon, it should be right.

    As to the bench and overhang issue, my "stick built" bench is constructed from 2x4 framing and legs, with a 5/8" plywood top and plenty of support members from front to rear. There is no overhang on the front. The two front lag bolts securing the 550 to the bench are something like 5 1/2" long and extend thru the 2x4 frame member (3 1/2" wise). Rear bolts are not as long and straddle a support member for the benchtop. Flat washers, lock washers and nut finish the install.
     
    #14 PCJim, Jan 27, 2012
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2012
  15. ALBin517

    ALBin517
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    I received my 550b and eventually concluded that I almost had to strong mount it. The other option was to cut/drill through supports on the underside of my bench.
     
  16. ron59

    ron59
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    Bustin Caps

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    The first "phase" of my reloading bench had 3/4" plywood.... worked great. Had it that way for over 2 years. My bench is 3' deep and 6' wide, but I also had two braces under there in the middle, so probably only 2' of plywood (going width wise) had nothing under it.

    I used BIG washers on the bottom to spread the load.

    When I got my 650, I decided to revamp the table, primarily because it was too tall. I took 8" off the legs, but I also took off the plywood top, added 2x12s going the long way, then put the plywood back on. It's super strong now, as well as super heavy.
     
  17. GioaJack

    GioaJack
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    Conifer Jack

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    PCJim hit the nail on the head, although utilizing screws works better than nails. :whistling:

    Two 2X4's scabbed together and mounted long side horizontally provides more than enough non-flexing support for any press, or combination of presses you plan on mounting.

    As Jim did, you can either drill down through the 2X4 lengthwise and secure with bolts, washers and nuts or use lag bolts into the 2X4, both work equally well. My choice is dependent on what I can scrounge up around the house thus avoiding a trip to the hardware store.

    If you've used a sufficiently thick material for the bench top shorter bolts with large flat washers mounted underneath will keep anything from flexing and will stay secure until the end of time.

    Note: If you're excessively anal like Little Stevie you can use lock washers between the flat washer and the retaining nut.


    Jack
     
  18. cabrego

    cabrego
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    Thanks for the advice guys. I am going to keep the 4" overhang and after talking with my builder a little more SHE convinced me it will be solid as a rock. The top is framed with 2x4 and reinforced with a 1x6 all round the top. Carriage bolts are going to be used on the 4x4s and the top plywood surfaced will be screwed to the frame along the 2x4s every 4 inches or so. We did not skimp on materials so I think we should be OK. I will keep you posted.
     
  19. F106 Fan

    F106 Fan
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    Actually, as a reloading bench, that design might be considered marginal. One reason you don't want vibration is that you want the amount of powder that drops into the powder bar to be consistent. You don't want the vibration causing variations in powder drop.

    One way to add mass would be to double up on the top. In fact, if you use MDF instead of plywood, it will get real heavy, real fast.

    Given two layers for the top, I think the overhang will be fine. But you can use lag screws if the layers of the top are made out of plywood.

    My bench is 38" high and I use the strong mount. That puts the handle knob about even with my shoulder (I'm 6'1") but the important part is that when the knob is fully down, my arm is just about straight and I don't have to lean over to complete the stroke.

    Richard
     
  20. unclebob

    unclebob
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    That is what I did on the first time on the bench I have now. 2 X 12 glued and I ran thread rod in 3 places. Then used ¾ inch plywood. With Formica on top. When I redid the top I use the 2 X12 then added two layers of MDF. That was done for the removable insert. With also Formica on top and sides. That is what I have now.