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PSL 4x scope questions from an un-scope savy guy.

Discussion in 'The Kalashnikov Klub' started by goodale, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. goodale


    Sep 12, 2008
    Hey all, my father just bought a 7.62x54 PSL rifle witht the commie 4x6 lps scope. Before we go to the range and start jerking around and wasting ammo I want to know how to zero and set the scope up. I am not very scope savy so excuse my terminology. Am I correct in saying each of the two knobs has two adjustment? For example if you turn the whole elevation knob those 10 adjustments are they for making rangeing ajustment on the fly and the top thin part of the knob is for zeroing? Also each knob(elevation and windage) has three screws on the face of it, i'm assuming the middle screw holds the knob to the scope and the two outter screws are set screws that lock down the zeroing adjustments. Am I right? Which is which? Also those "on the fly" compensation adjustment where should they be set for zeroing? Elevation at 0 and windage at 0? the elevation has 10 settings and the windage has 20 marked 10-0-10 jeft to right. I hope someone knows what I am talking about, thanks ahead!:dunno:
  2. Novocaine


    Jun 10, 2004
    I don’t have any experience with PSL but I can tell you Russian military procedures on how to deal with SVD/PSO. As the PSL set-up is supposed to mimic SVD I hope at least to hit the ball park.

    Top turret is for elevation (CW-UP, CCW-DOWN), side turret for windage (CW-RIGHT, CCW- LEFT). Don’t mess with center screws. When zeroing the scope you will need to loosen two opposing side screws on the top of each turret.

    Top turret. Numbers are range in meters- your distance to the target.

    Side turret. Numbers are what Russians call “thousands” and what capitalist pigs call milliradians. Since you’re new to combat optics you might wanna look up some info on mildots. For now we’re staying caveman so all you need to know is that each such number on a side turret is equal to each windage hash mark in your reticule and is also equal 10 centimeters @ 100 meters. Be careful, your turret in all the likelihood will have TWO clicks for every numbered hash mark on the side turret. So each click is 5 centimeters @ 100 meters.

    There’s also finer unnumbered scale close to the top of each turret, the value of each hash mark of these scales is half a thousand or half a mil. These scales are intended for zeroing only.

    Reticule. For aiming you use only the chevron in the center of the scope. Three other chevrons below it are for distances over 1000 meters (If you feel adventurous they are from top to bottom 1100, 1200 and 1300 meters when top turret is set to 10).

    Curved graph is your rangefinder. You place the target of the average male height (1.7 meters) between the baseline of the range finder and the dotted curve. Look at the number where the top of your target touches the curve- this number is the distance to the target in meters. Dial your top turret to this very number and you’re ready to go. If you’re using milspec ammo that is.

    Zeroing is done at 100 meters, the top turret should be set to “3”. Point of impact should be 14 centimeters above the point of aim. Again, to adjust the scope, loosen two opposing screws on the turret. You don’t rotate the whole turret, just the turret “hat”- very top part. Rotating turret hat one division of an unmarked scale will move point of impact 5 centimeters at 100 meters. You rotate the turret hat in the direction you want your point of impact to go. Example: at 100 meters bullets hit 6 3/4 inches (17 centimeters) higher than where you want them to go. To adjust your rotate the top turret hat three and a half hash marks CCW (DOWN).

    When you're checking the irons you also do it at 100 meters and the sight also is set to “3” but the point of impact should be 16 centimeters higher than the point of aim.

    Good luck.

  3. goodale


    Sep 12, 2008
    wow thank you very much for the detailed reply. i'm going to print out youre post and keep it with the paperwork for the rifle