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Problematic squib (photo=must see)

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by MoNsTeR, Apr 25, 2010.


  1. MoNsTeR

    MoNsTeR
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    [​IMG]

    Crazy!

    I can't get the damn thing out. I've had squibs before, and never really had trouble knocking them out with a dowel or rod, but they've always been in 4" barrels. Brace the gun with one hand, hammer with the other, barrel supports the rod, no problem. But this bullet is actually protruding slightly from the muzzle, so every time the hammer hits the rod the end just skips off the bullet.

    Any ideas?
     

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  2. ChadSin

    ChadSin
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    Carefully drill it out? Then collapse the leftover ring? Maybe that would work if your good with a pencil grinder or small drill.
     

  3. drew4691

    drew4691
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    CAREFULLY drill it out. CAREFULLY
     
  4. sirgiles

    sirgiles
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    time to take out that dremel!
     
  5. hunt_ak

    hunt_ak
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    1) You drill it out, and mess up...bummer

    2) Take it to a smith to drill it out, and he messes up...bummer (but he pays for it)
     
  6. GioaJack

    GioaJack
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    Conifer Jack

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    Just go down to Home Depot and get the appropriate sized 'hardwood' dowel... concave the end of it just a little on the end so it sits over the nose of the bullet.

    Cut the dowel just an inch or two longer than the barrel so you don't snap it when you hammer the the round out.

    Spray the bore down with oil from the forcing cone before you tap the bullet back through.

    If it was my gun I wouldn't be putting a Dremel anywhere near the crown. Good luck.

    Jack
     
  7. IndyGunFreak

    IndyGunFreak
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    KO Windows

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    :agree:
     
  8. DEADLYACCURATE

    DEADLYACCURATE
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    How are you getting these multiple squibs
     
  9. Hoser

    Hoser
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    Ninja

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    I see a .350 OD brass rod in your future....
     
  10. Travclem

    Travclem
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    This^^
    Power tools should never even go near a gun barrel.

    Are these reloads or factory? if factory what brand/load?
     
  11. MoNsTeR

    MoNsTeR
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    When I said I'd had them before, I meant "over the last 10 years"...

    I think I'll be trying the concave-ended dowel.
     
  12. oneuglygun

    oneuglygun
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    Cut dowel rod in three pieces, last one protruding 3/4 inch from rear of forceing cone, place 1/4 20 bolt with nut run all the way down against inside of frame on a piece of thin cardboard or rubber, place small socket over bolt and against nut on one end and against dowel on the other. Turn nut with small wrench to apply pressure against dowel. That will jack the bullet out the front. Been there-done that !!:supergrin:
     
  13. j-glock22

    j-glock22
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    musta been an Obama bullet.... dittos on not using power tools on barrel. Try a larger dowel and try to lube it up a bit on both sides of the barrel. You can always clean it later.
    Good luck! That picture is a keeper
     
  14. Snapper2

    Snapper2
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    How about warming the barrel up a little first? A hot hair dryer?
     
  15. DEADLYACCURATE

    DEADLYACCURATE
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    ahhhh
     
  16. CaptToyota

    CaptToyota
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    Mobil-1 oil and a steel punch that just fits in the hollow point cavity bottom.


    Drip some oil in from chamber end and get it nice and wet, then use steel punch that fits into the hollow point and tap the bullet back towards the cylinder,, the Mobil-1 synthetic oil should make it nice and slick...

    Another idea might be load a mild blank and blow the bullet out ?
     
  17. srd

    srd
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    Thats the hard way to slug a barrel.
     
  18. sdelam

    sdelam
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    I would cut the barrel long ways so you dont mess up the bullet. HP's are expensive.






    Sorry, drinking and posting again.
     
  19. dudel

    dudel
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    Very bad idea. Don't try it.

    Also, as the wiser ones have said, keep the power tools away from the crown.

    Use a short dowel, slightly smaller than the bore, sharpened to a point. Put the point into the hollow point cavity and start tapping with a non metal hammer (rawhide or deadblow). You may have to use several dowels, each cut longer to finish the job. A short dowel will be more controlable; and a non metal hammer will not damage the crown should the projectile start back and the hammer make contact with the crown (that would be bad with a metal hammer).

    I'd also find some way to avoid putting pressure on the handle. Run a thicker piece of wood through the space left by the cylinder, support it and use it to take the force (grip is going to absorb too much of the effort and you are stressing the frame. You might be able to get this done with a pipe clamp or C-clamp. Shield the forcing cone with some wood, and use screw pressure to eas the projectile back. I helped someone with this technique many years ago.

    If you are uncomfortable with this, you might want to visit a gunsmith. You have many chances to damage the gun.

    How many of these have you had over the past 10 years? The first is a learning experience; the second means the lesson wasn't learned. Something is going on with the process that needs to be addressed.

    Had a second round followed this one, it could have been a whole different story for you and for others near by at the range.
     
    #19 dudel, Apr 25, 2010
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2010
  20. DaveCharlie09

    DaveCharlie09
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    One thing for sure, when you get it out without damaging the gun, you will be very proud of yourself.
     
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