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Problem with my new AA Conversion kit for my G19.

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by the_sgt_rock, Sep 6, 2010.

  1. the_sgt_rock

    the_sgt_rock

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    I just purchased a 19/23 kit for my Gen3 G19. The majority of the rounds are getting stuck in the chamber. I am using CCI 40 Grain Mini mags per the suggested ammo.

    What I notice happening is the ammo is very loose when you insert a fresh round. But when the firing pin strikes the casing, it swages out the bottom of the round where it strikes, making that area of the now empty casing bigger, thus it now becomes tight in the barrel.
    I have not been able to get more than 3 rounds off at a time and the majority of the time it is only 1 round before I have to manually eject it with the brass cleaning rod.

    I notice on my 9mm barrel that there is a big chamfer (corner break) on the end of the barrel where the casing enters the barrel. On my conversion kit barrel there is a very very small corner break if any.

    I have a machinist's background and I think that a larger corner break on the casing end of the barrel would help.. I also see an indentation right above the barrel where the firing pin has struck, possibly from dry firing? (I have done it minimally) I wonder also if just making a bigger chamfer right where the firing pin strikes the barrel would alleviate this issue.

    Another thing I thought of was machining a small shallow notch to the inside of the barrel from the outside where the "gripper" is supposed to grab onto the lip of the now used casing to eject it. There really is not correct clearance in my mind for the gripper to fully grab the used casing.
    There is a 45 degree ramped notch there to allow the gripper to get close to the casing but I think a small channel into the bore from here would help it grab the spent casing easier.

    I am very frustrated as I just bought this and have not been able to enjoy it like I should. Anyone have any input or personal experiences with this?
    Please advise.
    Thanks.
     
  2. SalfromCal

    SalfromCal Senior Member

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    The indentation right above the barrel where the firing pin struck, is there for a reason.., dry firing. That's how it comes from the manufacturer so nothing to worry about!
     

  3. sniper350

    sniper350

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    I can't speak specifically on the Glock conversion kit ......... but I can give you some insight that I found on the 22 conversion kit for the Sig P-226.

    If you "accidentally" DRY FIRE the weapon even once with the 22 barrel in place the small INDENT that will occur on the inside of the Chamber is large enough to cause FTE's . For this reason, I always use a snap cap as the first round loaded in a magazine. In case I lose track .......... the firing pin will fall onto the snap cap and not the bare surface of the barrel's edge causing an indent to the chamber!!!

    You must remove the small indent's ( to the chamber wall ) caused by dry firing .......then proceed as normal. The FTE's should go away.

    I was always taught to NEVER dry fire a .22 cal just for the reason that the firing pin will over travel and strike the barrel's edge.

    Maybe this info. will help with the Glock kit as well ???


    JF.
     
  4. sniper350

    sniper350

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    Salfromcal indicates in his post the Manufacturer has "cut" a relief notch in the barrel to prevent the damge to the barrel's chamber that apprarently occurs in the P-226. If this is the case please disreguard my post.

    JF.
     
  5. SalfromCal

    SalfromCal Senior Member

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  6. the_sgt_rock

    the_sgt_rock

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    Ok, here is a picture to describe what I am saying.

    Area 1) Firing pin relief area: Possibly needs enlarged.

    Area 2) Possibly machining a shallow slot here to allow the gripper to better grab the spent casing.

    Area 3) Corner break on this area: I added what little bit you see here. From the factory it was pretty much sharp: I think a larger chamfer here would help, maybe just in the area of the firing pin.

    Again, the casings are only tight the first .060 of an inch or less. After you push it out that far it just drops out. And as previoulsy mentioned, a new round freely falls in and out with no restrictions. It is only after being fired that they get stuck.

    I still believe that the firing pin is smashing too much on the brass distorting it.




    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2010
  7. theleafybug

    theleafybug

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    are the cci's wax coated? i had a lot of trouble with the wax coated bullets gumming up the chamber and they would not extract. if the chamber is at all dirty, the extra friction locks the spent casings in the chamber pretty well and the extractor can't slide them out nice and easy.

    scrub the chamber to get rid of carbon/wax buildup. i've had the best luck with remington golden bullets.
     
  8. the_sgt_rock

    the_sgt_rock

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    No. I have it totally cleaned and if you push a new round into the chamber and then tilt the barrell backwards, it will literally fall out just due to gravity. If you take the same round and fire it, it will be in there tighter than tight. Next round will repeat the whole process. Like I said, the firing pin is squishing the head and making the round casing oblong in shape at the end. We are talking in thousandths of an inch mind you. Also, like i said, it is only the first .060 where it is tight. Once you push the spent casing back .060" or less it freely falls out.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2010
  9. the_sgt_rock

    the_sgt_rock

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    Ok, here is a picture of a spent casing. Note how it turned the round casing end into a "point" where the firing pin struck it. This action is what is making the rounds too tight to eject.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. SalfromCal

    SalfromCal Senior Member

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    Is your G19 lower factory stock with no or any aftermarket parts installed like the connector or trigger bar? I'm asking because this can also make the kit not to function properly...:upeyes:
     
  11. sniper350

    sniper350

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    Excellent photos Gentlemen !!!

    First off ...... I would not make any changes to the barrel as a result of One type of 22 ammo being tested.

    You would not have the first 22 cal. that didn't like a particular brand.

    IF it happens with other brands THAN you might consider some small changes to the chamber area. If it were me I might use some 600 grit sandpaper to polish and add some relief to the front part of the chamber.

    I would not increase the cut out notch as this might give less support to the cartridge rim and allow more indentation to occur.

    JF.
     
  12. sniper350

    sniper350

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    I might buy another firing pin spring and test cutting some coils off to lighten the strike

    Just some thoughts


    JF.
     
  13. bentbiker

    bentbiker

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    Just try a box of Golden Bullets before you start replacing parts and machining metal. You are over-thinking this.
     
  14. SalfromCal

    SalfromCal Senior Member

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    Good advice!:thumbsup:...I will try GB but since .22cal ammo is very inexpensive, just go ahead and purchase a 50 rounds box of each brand recommended and see what happens.
     
  15. Glock21Owner

    Glock21Owner NRA Life Member

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    I had similar problems with Mini-Mags, and so far the only ammo that works consistently are the Remington Golden Bullets
     
  16. ViperR

    ViperR

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    Hmmm...mine worked really well right from the box. Now, with some polishing, it feeds & fires just about anything. Got lucky with my kit. Maybe just got a little extra TLC when manufactured. Too bad I have to sell it.
     
  17. the_sgt_rock

    the_sgt_rock

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    Yeah I thought about that too. I also considered cutting down on the striking force of the firing pin. I have a box of remmington goldens. I will try them and report back.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2010
  18. the_sgt_rock

    the_sgt_rock

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    Yes, it is all factory. No aftermarket parts.
     
  19. Flipz

    Flipz

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    Remington Golden Bullets function with 99% reliability in my kit.

    IMO I think the real issue is that AA uses a really weak Extractor Spring. The Extractor Spring in my P226 .22lr conversion kit is much stronger than AA's. Because of this my P226 .22lr conversion kit is 100% reliable with any .22lr ammo I put through it. Also, AA's Extractor itself has a tiny contact area on the rim of the round. I believe these two items are what cause issues in the AA kit.

    After all, the only problems I ever hear about the AA kits are in regards to extraction and ejection.

    I would think that a stronger/stiffer Extractor Spring would solve 75% of the problems since the Extractor itself cannot be changed. The only problem is finding a stronger spring that would work.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2010
  20. the_sgt_rock

    the_sgt_rock

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    Ok, I just put 10 rounds of Remmington Golden bullets (36 grain) thru the gun without a hitch. I exammined the spent casings and here is what I found.

    The bottom of the mini mag casing is thicker than the Remmingtons. What happened is the firing pin was actually bending the entire head of the casing because it was thicker. The thinner head of the remmingtons allows it to be pushed straight down and not distorted.

    I have included side by side pics below.

    The left casing is the CCI Mini-mag, the right is the Remmington Golden bullet. Note the distortion on the mini-mag where as the remmington is distortion free.
    [​IMG]

    One more pic. This shows the thickness of the head of the casings. Again in this view the Remmington is on the right and the CCI Mini Mag is on the left.

    See the difference, the mini-mag is bent over where as the thinner Remmington Golden is undistorted. The firing pin stike areas are both facing each other towards the middle of the pic so you can see them clearly.
    [​IMG]

    Thanks everyone for your inputs. Greatly appreciated.