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Polishing Help

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by speedweapon, Mar 18, 2010.

  1. speedweapon

    speedweapon Gort

    332
    0
    Apr 27, 2006
    SW FL
    I took the sand paper to my slide today. Got most of the Tenifer finish off, but for a portion that could be best described as a rash of pin dots. What am I doing wrong?

    [​IMG]

    This is a new Gen 4 slide. G17. Are the not perfect, flat?
     
  2. eisman

    eisman ARGH! CLM

    2,579
    0
    Jul 28, 2002
    Moving Target
    Once again, the black is not tennifer; it's an oxide finish over the tennifer. Tennifer is a "case hardening" type metal treatment that hardens the surface of soft steel to a depth of @ 0.002".

    You did remove some of that.

    You also rounded of a few areas that should be flat, and didn't square up much of what you sanded. Bad technique and probably the wrong equipment. You're not putting consistant pressure on the stroke. You have more closer to your body.

    You should never assume that you have a flat, square, surface. (If you don't know what both terms mean you shouldn't be doing this.) You use a bead blaster to remove the oxide, then a file or stone to draw the surface, then abrasive papers to polish. You should have a couple reference tools (squares, flat surface, etc) to insure you're doing it right.
     

    Last edited: Mar 18, 2010

  3. speedweapon

    speedweapon Gort

    332
    0
    Apr 27, 2006
    SW FL
    Do you put the red ruge on the wheel or the slide?
     
  4. Find a very flat surface to work on.
    I'll leave that up to you.
    Put sandpaper down and carefully slide the slide back and forth in straight even pulls and work your way up to 1000g paper.
    You will eventually get things smooth and the "dots" are simply from the manufacture of the slide not needing it to be perfectly smooth.
    Lots of work. I hope you like it after it is done.
    Customized Creationz (.com) can cerakote it back to the way it looked for around 50 or 60 bucks. :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2010
  5. g29cc

    g29cc Custom Work

    412
    0
    Dec 5, 2007
    Michigan
    Thanks Jim S.

    We can also finish polishing it and fixing any mistakes or problems you might have encountered with it as well.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. I got bored one day and polished my 36 slide. After I did, I realized that I prefered it to be black (original).
    I sent it to you guys and had it back in less than two weeks looking like I had never touched it.
    Thanks for the nice job and quick service.
    I think about this every time someone says "I want to polish my slide". :supergrin:
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2010
  7. g29cc

    g29cc Custom Work

    412
    0
    Dec 5, 2007
    Michigan
    I remember yours, that wasnt too long ago was it ?
     
  8. Doesn't seem that long ago. You had some special going on where a slide refinish was pretty cheap. It was right on time for me.
    I thought it was cool that I had it back in less than two weeks as good as new.
    Thanks again.
     
  9. 481

    481

    2,003
    0
    Feb 20, 2009


    Fixed it for you. :supergrin: (The post, not the slide.)


    Couldn't help myself. :dunno: Yeah, I also carry a black sharpie around so that I can put moustaches on people's faces in pictures on posters when no one's lookin'.


    :animlol:
     
  10. 481

    481

    2,003
    0
    Feb 20, 2009

    CC-

    While not a fan of "shiny" pistols, I have to say: Nice freakin' work! :cool:

    Question for you-

    I notice that you have the pistol controls Ni/Co plated. Can you apply it to the slide after polishing assuming that (most?) the Tenifer substrate remains and how do you handle passivation? Does it require an embrittlement bake after application?
     
  11. 481

    481

    2,003
    0
    Feb 20, 2009
    Now that's funny! :supergrin:
     
  12. g29cc

    g29cc Custom Work

    412
    0
    Dec 5, 2007
    Michigan
    Thank you.

    It doesn't really require much extra work to plate the glock slide. The key to everything plating properly is all in the prep work.

    Thanks
    Todd
     
  13. No they are not perfectly smooth. If I were you I would get a piece of glass to place sand paper on to insure you are using a flat surface. I would start with 600 grit to get it flat then get progressively finer down to 2000 grit. Also use wet and dry paper and keep it wet. With 2000 grit you will get a nice shine which can be polished to a mirror finish. This is not a quick thing to do, it will take some time and patients.
    Good luck.