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Overhaul

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by fonzy1, Feb 29, 2012.


  1. fonzy1

    fonzy1
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    Sorry no Chip Foose.

    So as you know I bought it with the sole intention of modding it. So lets begin, first on the list the popular grip reduction. Those of you that have met me know how short and small my hands are. I didn't want to go with the fill and grind method since the heat method seemed easier and this is my first time.

    Bought a candle at Wal-Mart $1.88.
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    I suggest getting some blocks (wood) or plastic. The purpose of the blocks are to take the place of the magazine in the well. I have read the some folks have had warpage and their magazines wont drop freely. So we shove the blocks to prevent that from happening. Second it gives you a handle so you wont burn your hand, and lets you get some leverage when rolling.

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    Hold the frame about 1 inch from the flame, to begin with you might have to lower it that's expected. Slowly move it in circles around the hump area. The plastic color will get flat and then shiny all of a sudden. That's when you roll. Take your time if you get to close to the flame or you leave it to long the plastic will bubble.

    You can see in the pics where I slipped ( yea seriously I put to much weight and slipped). So get a non slip surface. The plastic got smeared, I just heated it back up and with a flat screwdriver recontoured the plastic.

    Before and After measurements.
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    Wanna kill these ads? We can help!
    #1 fonzy1, Feb 29, 2012
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2012
  2. fonzy1

    fonzy1
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    When I was happy with how it felt I sanded it with 120 grit. You'll have some plastic spread, kind of when you scrape your hand and your skin bunches up and hangs like that. So I just smoothed it out and contoured it a bit.
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  3. fonzy1

    fonzy1
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  4. fonzy1

    fonzy1
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    This cut I did on my Gen 3 because my fingers didn't line up with the finger grooves. I like it on the Gen 3 so I did it on the Gen 2 no other reason, didn't really need it.

    I used blue painters tape so that there is no sticky residue when removed. I used the tape so protect the areas around it. You dont want to scratch or grind and area no intended. Also as a guide to mark how much to grind off. I used a dremel to start off with. Then I used 120, 300, 400, 600, 800, 1000 to finish it off. After you grind what is needed make sure you break the edges also or it will stand out too much and really not look like it was intended to be that way. The reason I use so many grits is too blend out the grain marks, and ultimately be super smooth.

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  5. fonzy1

    fonzy1
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  6. fonzy1

    fonzy1
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  7. fonzy1

    fonzy1
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    I used this product cause you will have an ashy grey look after sanding. It only works temporarily. I'm still exploring I'll let you know what I find to keep it black.[​IMG]
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  8. fonzy1

    fonzy1
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    I only did this for aesthetics no other reason. Again using tape as a guide.

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    I ended up grind off some more I was just lazy to take more pics.
     
  9. fonzy1

    fonzy1
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    Now the controversial stippling. This is 100 percent worth it's weight in gold. I cannot emphasize how good it is. I'm not gonna say what everyone else does, if your hands are sweaty, bloody , wet blah blah blah. I'm just saying for general overall use at the range or your home it's awesome. You don't have to be a gunfighter to benefit from this.

    I bought the wood burner from Lowes for 10 bucks.

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    Tape off your areas again as a guide. It works the burner wont burn through the tape right away so it really protects.

    That's the tip I used chisel tip.
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  10. fonzy1

    fonzy1
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    Tried the trigger guard first. Also practice, practice so you can see the different patterns the tips make.
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  11. fonzy1

    fonzy1
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  12. fonzy1

    fonzy1
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    On the grips I didn't use tape since I got the hang of the wood burner and felt confident.
    The plastic on the grips is tougher or something. I noticed I had to leave the tip on the plastic longer in this area.
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  13. fonzy1

    fonzy1
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  14. fonzy1

    fonzy1
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    [​IMG]
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    As you see I start getting confident with the stippling and start making designs. Clean your tip regularly as your stippling, plastic will stick to it.
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  15. fonzy1

    fonzy1
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    I installed the XS sights as discussed in another thread. I didn't take many pics because there are tons of videos out there. I will show how I verified that they were centered. Just measure each side making sure your measurements are the same.

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    People complain that these sights are not accurate past 25 yds. Well they are not competition sights. The farthest or longest part of my home is not 25 yds so I guess I'm ok. They are very fast on target, and they work well for what they are intended for SD. I'm not LEO or Military (anymore) so I can't justify myself shooting someone past 25 yds.
     
  16. fonzy1

    fonzy1
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    The look like they don't line up. They do I just had a hard time taking the pic with my phone's small button and trying to line up the sights you get the picture.
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  17. fonzy1

    fonzy1
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    I also have a 3.5 connector coming in the mail. I am aware that there will be light strikes with the firing pin spring. I don't plan on installing that. Will update.
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  18. 9L0ck

    9L0ck
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    Nice work. Thanks for the step by step report.
     
  19. RedHaze

    RedHaze
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    Handgunner

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    Nice write up.

    Not my cup o' soup, but looks good.
     
  20. charger arms

    charger arms
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    This is the instructional I have been looking for. I plan on heating up the grip of my G34 soon. I have a question about the long block used in the mag well. Could I use one of my 33 rd mags instead of a block of wood? I have read where another person stripped a mag down and froze a sponge inside it to keep the mag well cool. Just curious.
    Thanks