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Once fired brass with ejection marks

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by mayhem23, Aug 22, 2010.

  1. mayhem23

    mayhem23 Far East Sailor

    150
    0
    Mar 14, 2010
    Mid-TN
    I have a new G23 and was shooting at the range with a couple shooting their G27s. I kept all my brass and was given all the brass being shot up by the couple next to me.

    Today I am going through the once fired brass and discovered that many have burrs of various sizes from being ejected. I don't know if this was from my G23 or the G27s without making a another trip to the range. I plan to shoot again soon to see if I can eleminate my G23.

    My question is can I safely remove the burrs with a file or wire wheel without compromising the case for reloading them. The burrs differ from one case to the next. I have reloaded for about a year and a half for my revolvers. This will be my first time reloading for semi-autos.

    Also, who makes after market barrels and which ones do you like the best. This is going to be my next purchase.

    I look forward to your responses.
     
  2. hackinpeat

    hackinpeat

    1,014
    0
    May 21, 2010
    Washington
    with a unsupported breach I'd be wary of thinning out the case...but I do not reload, I'll be watching for the answer from a pro...

    wheres grandpa jack?
     


  3. DWARREN123

    DWARREN123 Grumpy Old Guy

    7,186
    1,221
    Jan 25, 2008
    Clarksville, Tn.
    I just resize them, not anything big but a little burr from extraction and ejection is nothing bad. Do not remove material from the case.
     
  4. PCJim

    PCJim Senior Member

    2,950
    1
    Aug 4, 2008
    FL
    I believe you are referring to burrs on the rim of the case head. I come across these occasionally. I do not worry with them and reload them as usual. I have found that many times, they seem to disappear or diminish considerably in the tumbling process.

    If they are bothering you, they can be removed with a small file. Tedious work, and I don't feel it's worth the effort. Be sure that you do not remove any metal from the case body, only from the rim.
     
  5. D. Manley

    D. Manley

    1,604
    0
    May 30, 2005
    Southern US
    This is where a case gauge comes in handy. Run any questionable cases through the gauge after sizing but before loading. If they pass the gauge, they're fine. Of course .40's are true straight wall but on those with a little taper (.45 ACP is the best example), if the burrs prevent the case from gauging just turn it around and into the case rim first, give it a rap on a wooden surface and pop it out with a dowel. The hard, smooth interior wall of the gauge will almost always smooth out the burrs just fine.
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2010
  6. shotgunred

    shotgunred local trouble maker

    8,731
    955
    Mar 1, 2008
    Washington (the state)
    The odds are they don't matter but it would be better if you took a picture and posted it.
     
  7. mayhem23

    mayhem23 Far East Sailor

    150
    0
    Mar 14, 2010
    Mid-TN
    Let me clear something up from my original post. The burrs are on the rim and not the case. Sorry I didn't get it right the first time. After going through all my brass, it appears that eighty percent has some sort of burr and scarring from extraction/ejection. Since I do have the brass from three firearm shot that day, the kicker is for me to go shoot again. That will be the only way to see if it is from my G23.
     
  8. fredj338

    fredj338

    21,704
    919
    Dec 22, 2004
    so.cal.
    As long as the burr is on the base of the head, it should not cause any reloading issues. If they are on the rim edge, then knocking them off w/ a file isn't going to harm the brass. Burrs on the case mouth, most iron out in sizing, but if not, I would toss them. The burr can cause the round to cathc on feed ramp/chamber mouth if bad enough.
     
  9. D. Manley

    D. Manley

    1,604
    0
    May 30, 2005
    Southern US
    I understood your post perfectly. Re-read my post above or as PCJim said, they can be touched with a small hobby file although its tedious and slower than just using the case gauge to "swage" them out. FWIW, it is extradordinarily rare for me to encounter 9MM or .40 brass with burrs sufficient to prevent passing the case gauge. The .45 ACP is another matter and there, it's very common.
     
  10. BigDog[RE]

    BigDog[RE] NRA Member

    1,030
    54
    Oct 11, 2005
    Miami, FL
    I use the case gauge method you mentioned above. I load a lot of 45ACP and the rims do get nicked up. If the round won't drop all the way in to the case gauge because of a nick, I turn it around, insert it rim first and give it a quick twist. that solves the nick issue 99% of the time.
     
  11. FLSlim

    FLSlim

    1,340
    13
    Apr 12, 2010
    FL W Coast
    I get the same thing out of my 23, and continue reloading those cases. I've had only one out of several thousand any that wouldn't fit a gauge because of a burr on the rim.
     
  12. herdingcats

    herdingcats still new

    46
    0
    Aug 20, 2010
    Seattle, Washington
    I have to agree with the guys saying the burr is no big deal, and that the burs tend to get knocked down with tumbling anyway so it's no big deal. This is assuming you're reloading for range ammo. Now if you're making self-defense or hunting rounds, I'd give you a different answer.
     
  13. herdingcats

    herdingcats still new

    46
    0
    Aug 20, 2010
    Seattle, Washington
    As for aftermarket barrels, I use a Lone Wolf conversion barrel in my Glock 23 to shoot 9mm, and it works like a champ (just use a 9mm magazine with it or you might get feeding and ejecting issues... I had those issues until I started using Glock 19 mags).
     
  14. mayhem23

    mayhem23 Far East Sailor

    150
    0
    Mar 14, 2010
    Mid-TN
    Thanks for all the great replies. I wasn't aware that there are case gages till I read your posts. I found that Lyman and Dillion carry the case gages. I will be ordering one of those and an after market barrel in .40 s&w plus 9mm. Thanks again.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2010
  15. as said, do not worry. just load them up. you don't have to do anything.
     
  16. Rico567

    Rico567

    196
    0
    Feb 3, 2004
    IL
    I've shot auto pistols for over 40 years. Yeah, the rims get nicked; no, it doesn't impede the function of the gun in any way. I shot a batch of 500 W-W .45 ACP cases that I kept separate on purpose, just to see how long they would last. When I finally discarded them, the rims were all nicked up and the 1911 had practically beaten the headstamp into invisibility. At that point, they were still going through the gun like new ammo, but the case mouths were starting to split, so out they went. Been a ways back, but as I recall, that was around 15-20 loadings.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2010