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Newby Q: .357sig - easy or not?

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by GoBoilers!, Aug 30, 2012.

  1. GoBoilers!


    Feb 28, 2008
    NE Indiana
    I am relatively new to reloading. So far I have tried 9mm and .38 special and have had good success (fairly accurate, functioned fine, and I still have all my fingers ;-)

    My next venture in this sport will be .40S&W, as I have a Glock 23 on my shopping list. After reading a bit about the .357sig cartidge, I am intrigued. I might just buy a Lone Wolf conversion barrel and try it out. I hear lot of complaints about the cost of .357sig ammo so I will plan to reload it too. Having never reloaded any non-straight walled cases before, and not having dealt with .357sig at all, is it difficult to reload? Any precautions (outside of ordinary) that I need to heed? Is it hard to find new or once-fired brass? Suggested powders? Any other suggestions / tips / feedback wlecome.

  2. F106 Fan

    F106 Fan

    Oct 19, 2011
    I have never loaded .357 Sig but I don't know why it would be any different than loading bottleneck rifle cartridges and that is done all the time.

    Make sure you have a case gauge for checking your resizing die setup.

    Brass is $173/1000:

    Others will chime in with a more experienced reply.

    Last edited: Aug 30, 2012

  3. Smoker


    Jul 21, 2008
    NE Kansas
    i load 357 Sig, it's just the same as anything else I reload, I don't hurry thru anything, I load them for about 12 or 13 cents each. Take your time, sizing is very important, you can use the same bullets in 9mm so you can two calibers out of one box. I am using Universal powder right now, seems to be working well for me. I just love that caliber.
    There are a lot of thread already out here, go back & dig thru them, tons of information.
  4. dkf


    Aug 6, 2010
    First pistol cartridges I ever reloaded were .357sig and .380. Had more issues with .380.

    The .357sig is not hard at all to reload however there are a couple musts that make reloading it easier and more successful. First buy the bullets with the proper profile. Profiles like the Hornady XTP work very well and 9x19 bullet with a long taper will not work well out all.

    Another must is the right set of dies. Lee and Dillon are two that work well, RCBS is not known to work very well. I use Lee dies and they have been working well for me.

    Too much crimp can bulge the case and push the neck down. Use enough crimp to remove the flare and put a very light mark on the bullet. I find it helps to put a chamfer on both the ID and OD of the case mouth. Make sure the flare is not excessive but enough to seat the bullet straight. Chamfering the case mouth helps to align the bullet but you need some flare. The bullet can have excessive runout after being seated if enough flare is not added.

    Keep those things in mind and you should not have any issues.

    New and once fired brass can be found on many different sites. For new brass your better off sticking with Starline.
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2012
  5. Beware Owner

    Beware Owner NOT a victim.

    Oct 16, 2007
    I began reloading with the .357 Sig. The only two problems I had were bullets with long profiles and my RCBS die extractor pins kept getting stuck in the flash holes no matter what I did. RCBS sent me about 3 different expander sets until they finally stopped sticking. Now they work just fine. Just remove the flare enough to where you can cycle through the action several times and you have no bullet setback.
  6. fredj338


    Dec 22, 2004
    SOrt of. The 357sig loads like any other pistol round but is more finicky to die setup, crimp & bullet selection. IF you buy a 9mm bullet that runs properly in the 357sig, it will aslo be fine in the 9mm, but not ALL 9mm will run well in the 357sig. You MUST use a bullet w/ straight bearing surfaces & FP to allow proper OAL & neck tension. That is the biggest issue w/ the 357sig is bullet selection.
    The next issue is proper dies & setup. The small shoulder must be in th eproper location or the round may fail to chamber or chamber too deeply & a misfire results. Many books say thecase headspaces on the case mouth, just not true, it does headspace on the tiny shoulder. Get that wrong & you'll have issues.
    Finally crimp. I use a moderate taper crimp, works fine. Too much taper crimp can cause loss of neck tension. SOme guys have had great success roll crimping in bullets w/ cannelures, but I am content w/ a good taper crimp. Buy any dies but the RCBS, they got it all wrong IMO. Dillon are carbide, Hornady Nitrate, both will work fine & no case lube.