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Discussion in 'Reloading' started by Steve Koski, Jan 25, 2006.
Link for "what do you load" thread.
I did that and I got a lot out of it. But I do hve to say that I prefer the Lyman Reloading Manual. It has much more detail and a really good layout.
about half the links on the top post are broken :-(
hi steve , I can't seem to get many of these threads to work.
How much does a progressive press cost? I don't want to buy the single stage press and then regret it.
These are archived out. Unfortunately, once this happens, the info is gone.
If someone can recreate the info or suggest newer links, I will try to organize & sticky this info.
I your reloading pistol I would use a lee turret press, rife I would use a RCBS rock chucker.
min equipment link is fubar ...
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Can someone give me a link to a low cost reloading setup so I can reload my 10mm auto ?
Figured might as well learn to reload since nobody has any for sale ...
I just got my Load Master last week and was becoming very frustrated. I found your videos extremely helpful. Thanks.
Thanks a lot, I'm considering upgrading my Turrett to a Loadmaster, and read about primer feed problems a lot... Thanks for the videos
Most of this threads don't exist, or the links are invalid
Anyone have a reloading cost savings spreadsheet so I can "show" my wife I will save money by reloading?
Single stage yardstick - time and money
The following is one example of time needed in a single instance of production for 50 rounds. The caliber was the very common .40SW pistol round.
There was no rushing of any kind nor cutting of corners that might compromise safety. Simply an effort to calculate the average time needed to produce one box of ammo when proceeding with purpose, deliberately and steadily. This may inform those looking to start reloading with the traditionally recommended single-stage press, and curious about the level of production.
I am neither a novice nor pro but have 5 years experience as a hobbyist and learned from scratch on a Lee Anniversary kit (still in use and also for this example) by reading, one visit to the reloader who ordered my kit for me (before I figured out I could have done that myself!) and some additional information picked up online.
This is simply a reasonable yardstick. If you are moving slower or faster it is not necessarily an indication you are doing anything wrong.
Other steps ancillary to the process not included are brass sorting and selection. It assumes your brass has been tumbled or is otherwise ready to load. It does not include any case lube time if you are not using carbide dies.
If you are new it is certainly ok to do more safety inspections of the process to insure you're on the mark.
:22 Flare/Powder/inspect for doubles/squibs
:16 Seat/COAL check
Total: 1 hour exactly
:10 Crimp (optional)
Bench cleanup add <5 minutes.
There are little production tricks you can pick up over time. If you've lucked into a range bucket and want to have a prep session you can save time for later loading. Advance prep would mean sorting brass already clean, tumbling the rest, batching it in baggies of a 50 or 100. You can then sit down to a massive de-cap session where the case are all deprimed and resized. Again, count and re-bag/inventory and it will be ready to go once you're ready to start. Don't prime a lot in advance since recipe selection on some rounds might mean choosing between a standard or magnum primer. Naturally this will not matter if you're sure and have limited bullet/powder choices
and know for sure.
If you have some of these steps out of the way its not impossible to knock out 100 rounds in 90 minutes or so, but never rush at the expense of quality or safety.
The above simply summarizes this one reloader's experience over time and an actual example.
The ammo produced from this session is now ready to shoot. It can be loaded into magazines and put in service for carry or taken to a range and shot with no further delay.
If you wish to double check your rounds, a final check can include a chamber check, where you actually cycle some rounds thru your gun to insure they're chambering properly, or use a gauge if you have one. Remember to keep your gun pointed in a safe direction if cycling your rounds thru the gun since they're now live.
As always, you are responsible for safe weapon and ammo handling as well as every round that leaves the gun.
The following were my costs for this:
Powder: - $1.32 (1 lb = 7000gr, .002857 cents per grain at $20/lb, 9.3 grain load)
Primers: - $1.50 at .03/ea (brick at $30)
Bullets: - $6.00, (.12c each in bulk)
Brass: - re-use
Avg OTS price these parts: $18.50 (40SW cheap ball ammo, American Eagle)
So the savings in this instance was about $10.00/box. Load only 14 boxes and you've paid for a Lee anniversary kit. I don't know of any other form of economizing that has this quick a payback and its fun and productive to boot.
This can be improved upon:
-cast your bullets from wheel weights
-find a cheaper production source
-some powders can be had as low as $15.00/lb
-primers can be had in bulk cheaper with the right source
-different powder selection by recipe using powders with higher burn efficiency
Some of my loads in .38sp are down in the area of $6/box, some here do it for less than half that if they take the biggest cost (bullets!) out of the equation by casting their own.
I'm new to Glocktalk and reloading, but this is an Excel 2007 spreadsheet I made up to look at the cost of reloading vs. buying cheep ammo.
I eventually decided to reload, and added features to track that spending as well. A lot if it is based on named ranges of cells. If you not familiar with that, updating with your own information may not work well.
This was not intended as anything beyond my own use, but perhaps it will be useful to some out there that use excel. If you do not have excel, this may or may not work with OpenOffice. I have not tried it.
Something else I recently found but have not tried is Reloaders Reference.
No links are working
Steve, your the man ! thank you for all your info. on this issue I posted .
keep your powder dry.
I am new to GT and love the wealth of expert information I see.
I am interested in reloading since buying a G20. After countless hours of research I believe I will choose the LCT for my first hand loader. Does anyone have an opinion about using the Lyman #55 powder measure with the LCT? Will I need anything to make this work other than the 7/8 x 14 thread adapter?
Where is the "Reloading Cost/Payback Spreadsheet" located? The links to the forum post mentioned here are broken. Thanks!
Google is your friend! Just try 'reloading payback spreadsheet' and one of the replys is:
The actual spreadsheet is at:
OOPS! This is old...