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Newbe to bow hunting

Discussion in 'Hunting, Fishing & Camping' started by eagles405, Sep 2, 2006.

  1. eagles405


    Oct 27, 2004
    I have been keeping an eye out for a nice bow at a good price for the last two years. I stepped into a hunting store that was closing in Nacogdoches TX yesterday and ended up getting a PSE Typhoon compound bow. Now that I have the bow arrows are required and I want some quality hunting arrows. Do any of you all have any suggestions for them. I figure arrows are like bullets you need to shoot the same size/kind for both practice and hunting. Do I need to worry about technique or posture when shooting. I will be practicing until I feel comfortable putting 5 shots in the kill zone at 40 yards. When it comes to hunting tips do you all like broadheads or mechanical. Thanks for your advise and happy, safe hunting.

    Eagles 405
  2. StockGlock23

    StockGlock23 Hilarious!

    Aug 10, 2004
    Bremen, IN
    I prefer fixed blade broadheads. I am a fan of Muzzy but there are tons of good out there. Yeah you should practice with the same arrows you hunt with. When I buy arrows I get a dozen, 6 for practice and 6 for hunting. Get field tips that are the same weight as your hunting heads and practice, practice, practice. Let the dealer you get your arrows from fit them and the bow to you. It will make shooting easier and more comfortable. Plus it will optimize your rig for your stature. Yes you need to worry about technique and posture but I am not one to give advise. I shoot funny compared to my buddies but that is how I am accurate and comfortable.

  3. method


    Mar 27, 2002
    Cleveland, OH
    You better believe you need to worry about technique and posture. Here's the big things you need to learn how to do properly, and how to do them the same way every time you shoot an arrow: gripping the bow, situating your bow arm and elbow, drawing, anchoring, releasing, following through. You more than likely have a LOT of shooting to do before you're lethal to 40 yards, don't expect it to happen in a month. If you get the hang of it quick, you could be hunt ready to 20 yards soon enough. I'd suggest having a pro set your bow up and get you shooting, it's easier to avoid bad shooting habits then to break them.
  4. Looks at what kinda arrows you want to shoot. Aluminum or Carbon? I would suggest the carbon arrows. Why? they are lighter, shoot faster because they are lighter, they tend to shoot flatter than the aluminum arrows, so you have a little more room for error in range estimation becaue even practiced people have a 30% margin of error in estimation.

    I like carbons, because they dont bend, the will break, but if you bend an aluminum shaft enought, it will break too. I like a 4" vane, if you want to shoot feathers you can I shoot plastic vanes.

    Now I have shot aluminum shafts thought my bow, with feathers, and they shot pretty good. I went back to carbon arrows, because I had no conifdence in the straightness of my aluminum arrows, if it bumped one while pulling my shafts out of targets.

    Now there is and argument for the heavier aluminum shafts, but you can get the same weight with the carbon shafts with inserts as well.

    I like gold tip arrows.

    The prices for aluminum and carbon shafts are pretty comparable.

    Also far as broadheads go. I would probably go with the muzzy's they have a good track record and are a good broadhead. I would also suggest the rocky mountain razorlights as well. I am looking at trying some of the sonic broadheads, because my bow shoots rather fast.

    Good luck and have fun.
  5. eagles405


    Oct 27, 2004
    Thank you for the information everybody. Please keep it coming. The Salesman who sold me the bow shot competition archery in England and knows what he is doing I feel. The bow is being adjusted for me this weekend to my draw length. As to the technique and posture are there any good websites with pictures or sketches I can read over. I will also talk to the salesman to see if I could meet him at a range for an hour to get the basics down. Thanks again for your help. I am so excited to finally get a bow!!!:dancing:

    Eagles 405
  6. DvsGlocker


    Jan 9, 2005
    At my house :-)
    No disrespect to the salesman but,
    In England there is no bow hunting allowed,
    chances are he shot GNAS/FITA target archery,
    or at best field archery, simulated hunting,
    with animal faced targets in a woodland setting.

    If you intend to hunt with the bow,
    get some instruction from a coach,
    who is a successful bowhunter,
    it might help your own,
    hunting efforts.

  7. You can buy broadheads with a "dummy" that will weigh the same and be a practise broadhead, with something like blades sticking out. The reason is because broadheads tend to float a little more in the air than a field point.

    40 yards is a long way with an arrow. Don't be disappointed if your realistic goal becomes 25 yards to group within a pie plate, in field conditions.

    After you get your target practise done, and feel confident...practise from a tree, or however you will be hunting. Try to replicate hunting situation for shooting. You know, a tree branch in your face, shooting down, and a 30 mph crosswind gust:) Don't forget that your heart will be pumping like crazy, so you might want climb up and down your tree a few times first.
  8. GeorgiaGlockMan

    GeorgiaGlockMan Aggie in Exile.

    Nov 18, 2003
    Bad-Lands Ranch
    congrats on the new bow.

    I like carbons and broadheads.

    Go the Eastons website and look at the arrow maintenance page. It is a pdf that has tuning, maint, and sizing tips for arrows.

    You'll learn more about arrows and making sure they are right from this one document than dozens of others.
  9. what about shaft length itself?is longer better or shorter the way to go?i ask because i see shafts in cabelas and bass pro that are 29 and 31 or so inches.not sure whats best for me with a 27 inch draw
  10. DvsGlocker


    Jan 9, 2005
    At my house :-)
    the draw length of your bow can vary,
    depending on what type of arrow rest you have fitted on your bow.

    If you draw you bow to full draw,
    with a full length shaft,
    and have another person,
    stand on one side of you.

    Have them indicate on the shaft with a marker,
    where the shaft sits on the rest then leave it a little longer.

    This little bit longer,
    will be dictated by what type points you are going to use,
    broadheads or field points.

  11. Squaw Man Wolfer

    Squaw Man Wolfer

    Apr 16, 2001
    In Him.
    I am no expert, but one thing to remember is that when you actually bow hunt, the immediate conditions in hunting may force you to radically change your posture from a bow range posture.

    I trained very hard at the range, then got up the tree in a portable tree stand, then realized,

    "Gee, I've never done this before."

    Work on this beforehand.
  12. sp3worker

    sp3worker chief wahoo

    Jul 21, 2004
    NE Indiana
    I recommend using carbon arrows and a fixed broadhead. I use Gold Tip Hunter carbon arrows and G5 Montec 100gr. broad heads. I really like the G5 Montec because it is a solid 1 piece design, no seperate blades to tune. I don't know what kind of rest you are using, but I recommend a Carolina Archery Whisker Biskit. They eliminate a lot of problems with the arrow coming off the rest when you don't want it to. And practice, a lot, especially from a tree stand.
  13. I've watch this thread on and off for the last day or so and nobody drafted over amy response to sights and release , draw weights and such.

    getting an bow and specially a compound bow has alot of issues more than so of that of selection of arrows and BHs selection.

    Just remember , getting you bow to fly right with ONE arrow is just one factor out of many.