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New to reloading

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by 1s1k52, Dec 31, 2011.


  1. 1s1k52

    1s1k52
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    My uncle passed away and gave this

    https://shop.rcbs.com/WebConnect/Ma...creenlabel=index&productId=2854&route=C04J148

    to my dad.

    As far as I can tell it has never been used and I conned my dad into lending it to me. He said he would use it which I know he wouldnt.

    I have not reloaded since I was in grade school even then it was shotgun.

    Other than dies, brass, bullets, primers and powder. is everything here?

    How much should it run me to start doing .40? A buddy and I are going to set this up in his shop so im doing the research.
     

    Wanna kill these ads? We can help!
  2. TX expat

    TX expat
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    Well with that kit, your major fixed expense is out of the way. A few small items like a bullet puller and a micrometer or caliper will be good to have. The caliper is necessary, the puller isn't but it'll save some headaches when you need to pull loads... I'd suggest you pick up a copy of the Lyman manual. It's got a lot of good information. Once again, not a must have, but it will only help you and be worth the money spent.

    You'll probably want a brass tumbler at some point, but clean brass is not a must, just another nice thing to have.

    As to your start up costs, that'll depend on how much and where you buy. But figure around $150 for a die set and enough consumables to get you started making bullets. Once you get settled on a specific bullet/powder/primer then you can buy in bulk and your cost per unit will really drop.
     

    #2 TX expat, Dec 31, 2011
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2012
  3. shotgunred

    shotgunred
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    reloading nut

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    Looks like you just need some dies and consumables.

    The ROCK CHUCKER is pretty much top dog for a single stage press.
     
  4. 1s1k52

    1s1k52
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    I figured it was. When I found out he has had it for months rotting in a box I al most slapped him.

    I will look into those items. I have watched some youtube videos they seem to skip steps and point that out in the video like saying "after this" yet dont show it.

    kind of agitating...

    I have some once or twice fired brass for my .40 already so that part is taken care of.
    I priced powder, primers and bullets (100) on midwayusa.com after seeing the HAZMAT fee I will be looking local (Mckiney, TX)

    I had to google what powder to use because all the ones I was clicking said "for shotgun" not sure if it matters

    not to mention 10mm is my next pistol in line and they use the same dies.... thanks for replies
     
    #4 1s1k52, Dec 31, 2011
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2011
  5. thorn137

    thorn137
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    Walther

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    $150 for a die set?

    I've never paid more than $50-60... maybe that was a typo, though.

    thorn
     
  6. F106 Fan

    F106 Fan
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    Skip the videos for now and read a reloading manual. "ABC's of Reloading" seems to be highly regarded around here (I haven't read it):
    http://www.amazon.com/dp/0896896099/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=8850632457&ref=pd_sl_840lscu7mf_e

    I also recommend any of the manufacturer's manuals such as:
    • Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading
    • Speer Reloading Manual #14
    • Sierra Rifle & Handgun Reloading Data
    • Nosler Reloading Guide
    Books like "ABC's of Reloading" don't skip steps and will present the data in a logical order.

    Read the 'stickies' at the top of this forum.

    Richard
     
  7. TX expat

    TX expat
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    The main thing to remember about reloading is to take your time. Cutting corners is usually what causes accidents; so just take it step by step and don't rush anything and you'll be fine. It is a little intimidating when you first start but it's really not rocket science. Just work up loads carefully and always pay attention to the OALs listed; going shorter can result in pressures than exceed what is safe.

    The Lyman manual has a really good step by step explanation of each process. The manual that came with the kit may as well, so check that out too. You should be able to get the basics for safe reloading steps from the manual.
     
  8. TX expat

    TX expat
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    Not a typo, I said $150 for a die set and enough consumables to get him started.
     
  9. Dasglockenspiel

    Dasglockenspiel
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    1s1K52:

    You have a great kit to start with. I load a great deal of 40 S&W and enjoy the flexibility of powders and bullets. Before buying powders, primers and bullets I recommend the following:

    Read the ABCs of relaoding cover to cover.
    Review the following sites for their input on loads, techniques and equipment:
    Reloadersnest.com
    Handloads.com
    All the powder manufacturers online data.
    http://www.k8nd.com/ipscload.htm

    Have fun!

    Dasglockenspiel
     
  10. F106 Fan

    F106 Fan
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    You want to be VERY CAREFUL where you get your load data. My personal practice is to ask around but ALWAYS go back to a manufacturer's printed or posted data to check the validity. I DO NOT just accept somebody's word that the load is reasonable.

    Reloading is a safe process but it is intolerant of mistakes. It isn't so much that a gun blows up, guns are easy to replace. It is the fact that you are holding the gun when it blows up that should cause concern.

    Richard
     
  11. TX expat

    TX expat
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    Consider mail order primers and powder once you are past the experimenting with different components stage. Before that, it won't be worth it.

    Ultimately your powder choice is going to depend on what you are looking for in a reload. Experimenting with the various offerings out there is probably going to be necessary but you certianly can get a general idea about some load characteristics from internet research. Always double check published load data! Everyone is going to have favorite loads but not all of them may be safe, so double check published data and then work up to any load. I've seen more than one 'great load' that I wouldn't put in any gun because I like my fingers where they are.
     
  12. shotgunred

    shotgunred
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    reloading nut

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    Just get some 180 gr fmj's, small pistol primers and some WSF.
     
    #12 shotgunred, Dec 31, 2011
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2011
  13. thorn137

    thorn137
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    Walther

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    Oh, i missed that. Yes, that makes much more sense.

    thorn
     
  14. glock_19guy1983

    glock_19guy1983
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    When you buy dies, spend the extra money and get carbide. Makes the process much faster and less messy not having to lube the cases before sizing. Ive got a box of 500 180gr. HPs thats probably only had 50-75 bullets used out of it and and a set of RCBS carbide dies that i would let go relatively cheaply or trade for components i can use. Im currently loading 38/357, 270 and .270WSM, 44sp and mag, 30-06, 45colt, .243, 45acp, and 7mm-08
     
    #14 glock_19guy1983, Dec 31, 2011
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2011
  15. Breadman03

    Breadman03
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    That kit comes with a loading manual. I chose Unique when I started loading (9mm), because I would only need 1 powder for when I began with .38 and .40.

    The list of must haves not in the box:
    Dies for .40
    Shellholder for .40
    Micrometer (I only have a caliper, but micrometer is more accurate)
    .40 brass
    The next 3 items should be bought from one of the .40 recipes listed in your manual. No experimenting until you have some experience. I've found it easy to get the powder and primers locally, but I usually have to order bullets.
    .40 bullets
    Powder
    Primers
     
  16. TX expat

    TX expat
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    Since you are in McKinney, you should have a number of places to buy reloading components locally. Sorry I can't help with any specific names, but I'm sure someone can tell you where to look for the best prices.

    If all else fails, I know Cabela's will have some sort of reloading supply sale once or twice a year and if you can time that with one of the many coupons they always have out, you can almost get close to internet prices. With that one open off 75 at Stacey Rd, that might end up being the most convenient place to buy stuff anyway. If you are the kind of person that learns best by watching, you might ask them if they have reloading classes. The one up here in KS does, but I don't know anything else about it but someone told me it was pretty inexpensive.

    Once you are ready to buy in bulk, have a look at Powder Valley. Their prices are great and they are good folks to deal with.

    http://www.powdervalleyinc.com/
     
  17. fredj338

    fredj338
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    ^^THIS^^^ The problem w/ Utube, anyone can post on there & you don't have enough exp to know if it's fact or fantasy. Get the ABCs, read it twice, then get two good manuals, I like Speer & lyman, read them twice. Then you should have a good concept of what is need.
    Your kit has everything but dies & you should get a set of dial calipers to measure stuff. A case tumbler can be added later, but you can shoot brass that has been rolled around in a damp towel to remove dirt/grit. It won't be shiney, but it will reload fine. Come & ask questions. Most of the guys here know there stuff, the ones that don't get beat up by the rest of us if they give bad advice.:supergrin:
     
    #17 fredj338, Dec 31, 2011
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2011
  18. 1s1k52

    1s1k52
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    awesome. Thanks guys for all the help and books to read.

    as far as what am i hoping for? well starting out just getting one to fire safely through paper and come home to tell about it.

    Long run, very long run-try and create something with a heavey round high velocity.
     
  19. F106 Fan

    F106 Fan
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    You're have gotten the recommendation to buy carbide dies because you don't have to lube the cases. It's true and I reloaded that way for many years.

    A month or so back I tried Hornady One Shot lube and it makes a HUGE difference in the amount of effort required to resize cases. There is no need to clean off the lube after the round is loaded.

    I realize this is more applicable to progressive presses where there is a lot going on with every stroke but it is probably worth the effort even on a single stage press.

    I just dump a few hundred rounds into a plastic box and spray away. I shake the brass around and make a half-hearted attempt to upset the cases that are mouth up and spray again. A few shakes of the box to even out the lube and a one minute wait before dumping them into the case feeder.

    Richard
     
  20. norton

    norton
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    Posted in wrong thread
     
    #20 norton, Dec 31, 2011
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2012