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New to ARs. Lubricant ??s

Discussion in 'Black Rifle Forum' started by hsprincipal, Dec 22, 2012.


  1. hsprincipal

    hsprincipal
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    What lube do you guys recommend for your ARs? I recently purchased a new Colt LE6920. Never owned one before and trying to educate myself. Do you run them wet? Really wet? Just need some tips.... I have on hand Hoppes oil, CLP and Lucas Home and Shop Oil (says for use on guns), and RemOil. Do I need anything else?
     

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  2. faawrenchbndr

    faawrenchbndr
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  3. svtpwnz

    svtpwnz
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    I use Royal Purple synthetic motor oil for all my weapons and never had an issue with any of them.
     
  4. hsprincipal

    hsprincipal
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  5. WoodenPlank

    WoodenPlank
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    SLiP 2000 EWL on both of my ARs. Tear the bolt down, clean it well. Moderately lube the exterior of the bolt tail, especially the gas rings. Lube inside and outside of the bolt carrier, cam pin, and firing pin channel. Reassemble bolt. Lightly lube charging handle leg and inside of the charging handle channel, as well. Re-assemble everything, rack the charging handle a few times to let the lube work it's way into everything. SLIP leave a bit of a dry film lube behind as it dries, so even if it doesn't look wet, it will still keep the bolt running well.

    After a few hundred rounds (if you notice the gun getting sluggish), ease the charging handle back until you can see the steel gas rings through the two witness holes in the dimple of the bolt carrier - you only need to ease back an inch or so. One to two drops of EWL through each witness hole onto the gas rings, and rack the charging handle a few time. The gas rings are one of the critical areas that need to be lubed.
     
  6. crazymoose

    crazymoose
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    Some lubes are better than others, but the important thing is just to use enough lube, and use it in the crucial places (which have been covered in this thread).

    The notable exception to this statement is Rem Oil. Rem Oil is really bad lube. I don't know why it's sold at almost every gun store and Wal Mart in the country, but it's just terrible; very low viscosity and it evaporates in short order.

    Slip2000 is great, FP10 and Break Free CLP do the job well. Heck, fully synthetic motor oil is, in my opinion, one of the best lubes for an AR, and a $6 quart will last you a long, long time. If you use synth motor oil, remember that while it is a superb lubricant, it does nothing as a cleaner and is only a mediocre preservative. You'll want a CLP or LP type oil on the external steel surfaces to prevent rust, and CLP or a dedicated cleaner for the bore, bolt extension (the star-shaped chamber that the barrel lugs lock into), caked on carbon on the bolt, etc.
     
    #6 crazymoose, Dec 22, 2012
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2012
  7. svtpwnz

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    I agree! If it is good enough for an internal combustion engine for 10,000+ miles, it is more than adequate for my AR's.
     
  8. WoodenPlank

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    That's why I use SLIP - it helps with cleaning (when I get around to it), and it's non-toxic to boot.
     
    #8 WoodenPlank, Dec 22, 2012
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2012
  9. mvician

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    FrogLube
     
  10. faawrenchbndr

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    Still need to try Froglube........great suggestion Mike!
     
  11. MarkCO

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    If you want a cheap effective CLP, mix Royal Purple synthetic motor oil (I like the straight 30) with Royal Purple synthetic ATF. The ATF has better cleaning and anti-corrosion properties.

    Bolt cam and rails of bolt carrier get Slide Glide while the bolt itself and the moving trigger parts get the RP mixture. Synthetic grease is okay, but Slide-Glide is the best for rails and carriers.

    Froglube is expensive and okay, but it is certainly over-hyped.
     
  12. mvician

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    :cool: non toxic and smells great!
     
  13. bmoore

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    Slip 2000 for non toxic. I use Mobil 1 10w-30 with about half ATF mixed in.
     
  14. hsprincipal

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    Thanks for all the good insight...
     
  15. collim1

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    I use CLP on my AR. Never had a single jam with my RRA. CLP is the only lube I have ever used on it.

    Its probably not the best at cleaning, lubing, or preserving, but its cheap and more than adequate in my experience.

    When my bottle runs out I'll likely try Hoppes Elite or MPro7 (same thing, different label). I have heard good stuff about it.
     
  16. lawman800

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    I never had a problem with RemOil. Just bought two cans today. I sprayed my AR until dripping wet and ran it a few times in horrible conditions with wind and dust and sand and heat and never had a failure of any kind with it. It's my field lube.

    I also use Hoppe's gun oil if I am cleaning my guns at home.

    Haven't gotten to using motor oil yet but I am not opposed to it if I don't have gun oil around and it's what's available.
     
  17. Matthew Courtney

    Matthew Courtney
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    Astroglide because.... Oops, wait. Sorry, wrong thread!
     
  18. MarkCO

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    Break Free CLP is not bad at all. Basically what they gave the military for years.

    Rem Oil (like WD40)...maybe okay for a sqeaky hinge, fishing reels, door locks...would not run an AR with it though.
     
  19. faawrenchbndr

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    Hose it down with Rem Oil then run around 500 rounds through it,
    or,......try to. It will work for a few rounds fired, however, it will
    evaporate and it will burn off very quickly.
     
  20. MajorD

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    What lube you use is not that important . The key is to run the gun fairly wet. A gi field manual will tell you the critical lube points. If those are wet you should have no problems
     
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