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New guy bought a used G19..

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by xj6in, Oct 26, 2012.

  1. xj6in


    Sep 26, 2012
    Hi guys, been lurking (and searching) for a while so I figured I would finally make a post...

    I ran across a good deal on used a G19 a couple months ago, so I jumped on it to see what the "glock experience" is all about... :dunno: Well it has been a learning curve for me, I really like the aftermarket following, but it seems like this gun is plagued with the random shove pipe and eject to face issues...

    I pulled the gun apart and took a spent case and mounted it in the slide. What I found is that the extractor rides up on the angled side of the round and forces the shell case/face forward and angles the mouth of the casing to the left. Until it is tapped from the back with the ejector... What I figured is that the spent case is moving to much after the round is fired, so I filed the front edge of the extractor back so it wasn't ridign against the angle of the case. It seemed to help alot, I ran over to the range and cranked out 2 mags to see the results. I am getting no more stove pipes, and the rounds are more consistant on ejecting, but mostly straight up. I picked up the casings and looked at them to see where the extractor was hitting but then found something else. The mouth of all the casings have the same dent on them in line with where the extractor is contacting (but on the other end). So what is happening is that the round is firing, pushing the slide back, the ejector is hitting the case and the front of it is hitting the slide cut out instead of clearing it... This makes a great reason why I am getting the straight up ejections.

    So the question is, where do I go from here? gut tells me to look at trying to get the ejector to hit the casing alittle lower so it will kick the front of the case up more and clear the slide, but I am open for suggestions...

    Be easy on me here, I'm new to glocks but not new to guns...

    Here is the description of the gun when I got my hands on it...

    [The 19 comes equipped with:

    Big Dot XS Sights (less than a year old, still plenty of life left)
    White Sound HRED (which I put in all my glocks)
    Most Current RSA. Also included is a spare current RSA.
    Glockmeister butt plug
    3 mags]

    Also had a NY trigger in it, but I was able to tame it down alittle bit with a Rocket 3.5...

    Open to suggestions, Thanks in advance....
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2012


    Feb 1, 2012
    Welcome! And sorry to hear about your troubles.

    Is it a Gen3 or Gen4 Glock?

    Usually chronic and consistent ejection failures are a result of a damaged/incorrect ejector arm.

  3. TK-421


    Oct 12, 2012
    Pflugerville, TX
    It's entirely possible that the ejector arm is damaged, which would be my guess, since you bought it used, and is quite possibly the reason the previous owner sold it.
  4. xj6in


    Sep 26, 2012
    Thanks guys, its a Gen 4... I don't look it as real problems, it more like a chance to tweak a couple things to get it to run like I want it to... I love the new trigger, and I am more accurate with it then with my M&P9, but I'm not putting it in my EDC line up until I get it the way I want it and it proves itself alittle better...
  5. bac1023


    Sep 26, 2004
    :welcome: and congrats on the G19.
  6. Bruce M

    Bruce M

    Jan 3, 2010
    S FL
    Sorry it is giving you trouble but I might try calling Glock.
  7. dhgeyer


    Jul 15, 2011
    The problems you describe are a known issue with early production Gen 4 Glock 9mm pistols. They have changed three parts since introducing the Gen 4's, although the last change is not showing up on the new guns yet.

    All of this is well documented in other threads in this forum, by the way, but I'll give you the Reader's Digest version.

    Your instinct about the ejector is probably right. If your ejector is marked with the number 336, it has been supplanted with ones marked 30274, which indeed move the contact point on the case.

    The earliest recoil spring assemblies were marked 0-3, and were the same ones being put in the G23's. Then they went to ones marked 0-4. The latest and greatest RSA's are marked 0-4-3. this marking is on the back metal circular plate.

    The latest change is to the extractor. The early production Gen 4 guns had a "dipped" extractor. Looking at the right side of your gun, focusing on the interface between the top of the extractor and the slide, you will see that there is a little curved dip in the extractor. These extractors have been suspected all along of being part of the problem.

    Depending on who you talk to at Glock customer service they may or may not send you parts, since I assume you are not a certified Glock armorer. They will send you the latest RSA, since that only requires a field strip for replacement. That probably won't do it, though. You can send the gun in. You may or may not get the latest extractor, which for many has been the key to solving the issues.

    All these parts are available from You want to call, though, as if you don't specify you might get another dipped extractor. They have both. Call and talk to Dave. The number is on the website. They're in Bailey CO, but ship to the East Coast from Oklahoma.

    If you don't feel comfortable detail stripping the frame and slide, I would suggest sending it in and hoping for the best. The gun is about as easy to take apart as any I have ever seen, and there are websites and Youtube videos galore to show you how to do it. If you are at all handy and can afford to buy the parts, I would suggest that route. While ordering from, you might want to order the White Sound Defense 20% extra power extractor spring, as that helped me with my issues as well.

    Hope all this helps.

    EDIT: Just reread your post. You may want to replace the White Sound Defense HRED with OEM Glock parts except the extractor depressor plunger spring. People have had mixed results with the HRED system. It might actually be part of the problem. If you don't have the original parts, you need the extractor depressor plunger and the spring loaded bearing. These will work with the White Sound Defense 20% extra power extractor depressor plunger spring which you already have as part of the HRED system. Note that the spring loaded bearing (the smaller plastic piece) goes in the back up against the cover plate. The HRED is built backward on purpose.

    It sounds like you have the latest RSA, but I'd check the numbers anyway.
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2012
  8. Congrats on the G19. I'd let Glock take a look at it. They may be able to resolve the issue or not but IMO it's worth a try. Depending when it was made there have been some changes with the recoil spring assy, ejector and extractor.

    Good luck and keep us posted.

  9. xj6in


    Sep 26, 2012
    Thanks for all the advice guys, I do have the 336 ejector, the dipped extractor, and the 043 spring... I will look at ordering the revised ejector, and extractor to see if it helps (thanks for the contact name)...

    I feel pretty comfortable with stripping the gun down.. Installing the Ghost trigger connector seemed like a breese on this gun so I don't think the ejector will be too much more involved..

    I don't have any problem sending the gun off, but if I can fix the issue myself without the hassle of shipping it off; I'll try that first... I would rather be involved with the fix so I know what to look for if it happens again...

    Thanks again...
  10. dhgeyer


    Jul 15, 2011
    One of the things I like best, if not the best about Glocks is how simple they are to operate and to work on. If you've replaced the connector you won't have any trouble with the ejector or the other parts involved.

    The only bad news is (I had forgotten this), doesn't sell the ejector by itself. you have to buy the trigger mechanism housing with the ejector in it. Not sure why that is. Maybe that's the only way he can get them. I think that's true of all the vendors. The good news is it's only $9.95. The part number is SP30275.

    Given that you're going to pay shipping anyway, I'd seriously suggest getting the spring loaded bearing and extractor depressor plunger. The extractor depressor plunger is $5.95 and the part number is SP00112. The spring loaded bearing is $3.00 and the part number is SP02714. The extractor you want is $19.95 and the part number is SP01895. Be sure to specify that you want the non-dipped newer version. I suggest that you get the EDP and SLB just because, for the money, you may or may not find that the original parts work better in your gun. If you get it all in the same order it could save you needing to order another order to try something else.

    The URL of's parts diagram with detail and prices you can click on is:

    That's where I got the above numbers and prices.

    And while I'm at it the phone number is 303-903-5465. They are open 8:00 to 4:00 Mountain Standard Time M-F, except they have a weird lunch break schedule.

    No, I don't work for them. I have ordered from them three times by phone, and have been more than satisfied, so I pass that on.
  11. xj6in


    Sep 26, 2012

    I got on line and ordered all the parts listed above, but the extractor that came looks like it has the same dip the current one does. Did they not change part numbers for this and I just screwed up, or did they screw up? I'm gonna swap over the ejector this weekend and see if it helps... not sure what to do with the extractor yet...
  12. janice6

    janice6 Silver Member

    Apr 4, 2006
    You bought an excellent pistol. Congratulations and welcome to GT.