New Glock 20: What to use for break-in ammo?

Discussion in 'The 10 Ring' started by chucky2, Feb 6, 2013.


  1. I always suggest that a gun buyer shoot about 500 rds. of factory with a new Glock, leave the copper stuff in place (Fel-Pro C5-A, it's a Mil Spec anti sieze), don't clean or dismantle until after the first 500.
    Also, using factory has an advantage, in that most firearms, if they're goiong to have a problem, will usually have it in the first couple of hundred rounds. If something DOES go wrong, a mfg'r. will respond better to you using factory. Most, Glock included, put a disclaimer in about using reloaded ammo & might give you grief with a problem.
    The 500 round break in will take care of most everything.
    As for cleaning, a Bore-Snake is a great investment. And the WORSE thing you can do to your Glock is over-oil it. I've worked in gun shops since 1997, & the most often cause of a Glock malfunctioning is TOO MUCH OIL.

    I ran my 1st Glock, a G20, in the following manner, to test things:
    All test runs were with 500 red. each.
    1) Bore brush, out of box as shipped & lubed (500 rds)
    2) Clean & oil per instruction manual (500 rds)
    3) Stripped of ALL LUBE, run dry. The pistol was cleaned with lacquer thinner for this one ! (500 rds)
    4) Lubed with powdered graphite, as for artic conditions (500 rds)
    5) Cleaned to remove the graphite, lubed per manual & shot since.
    I clean this pistol about every 1000 rds, +/- and it currently has well over 25K thru it with no problems. This is the pistol I shoot most at GSSF matches.
    The first 2K thru it were aluminum cased Blazer, as there was no 10MM to be found back then. The Norma had dried up in my area.
    Yes, I reload, a LOT !
    Good luck with your new Glockl


    uncle albert
     

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  2. VN350X10,

    You're saying to shoot the G20 out of the box w/o cleaning or lubing it first? I get that the copper grease/lube is to be left on, but Glock's own literature on their website says to lube before first firing (http://us.glock.com/documents/gun_maintenance.pdf).

    Is that not possible to lube the gun and still leave the copper grease/lube on (i.e. one or other scenario)?

    Chuck
     

  3. Run a bore brush thru the barrel. The one that comes with the pistol will serve nicely. The idea is to make sure that there is no excess grease or other obsttructions in the borer.
    The copper anti-sieze is an excellent lube.Like I posted above, this stuff carries a mil-spec # for use in all envirinments.It is very effective as a lube & will serve well. This is why it's put on the pistols AFTER they get into the U.S.A. & before they're shipped to the distributers. Trust the stuff, it works well.
    As far as an oil, after break-in, Mobil-1 will be excellent & a quart will last forever +6 days. Can't beat the price compared to "gun oil" either. Film strength is what keeps any lubricant working & Mobil-1 is better than most.
    After cleaning, I personally re-lube my pistols with the C5-A antisieze, as it can't migrate into the firing pin channel like oil can possibly do, causing mis-fires.

    uncle albert
     
    #23 VN350X10, Feb 11, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2013
  4. This is good advice.
     
  5. It's a Glock, not a 1911...lol. Just shoot it. Evidence shows it will run flawlessly straight outta the box. Breaking in and lubing with this and that are more for "fun" than anything else. I have about 7000 hiccup-free rounds through mine and I didn't do anything special to it. I agree with the above statement that if a gun is gonna have a problem, it's usually gonna happen early in it's life. If you don't do anything to it, leave it stock, and it has a problem, then you know it's likely a default with the gun. If you do all sorts of "special"things to it, and start having problems, you won't know what may have caused it.

    Nothing makes me shake my head more than the guys on here that have changed out recoil springs, mag springs, barrels and strikers and the like and then have reliability issues and can't seem to get to the bottom of it. Not saying you are doing anything like that, just that it is funny.
     
    #25 OregonG20, Feb 13, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2013
  6. OregonG20,
    You are 100% correct. When a customer brings a Glock into our shop & says it won't work, I ask:
    1) What ammo are you using, if a handload, let me see some of it.
    2) What did you change on the gun to make it "better"?

    In about 95% of the cases, the recoil spring assy has been changed out. We start by putting the stock one back in, this cures most of the problems.
    I point out that the ONLY Glock that I have that doesn't have the stock, as delivered, recoil assy. is my son's open class USPSA race gun, shooting 9mm Major power factor loads. This one did need spring tuning, as it is a 6 1/2" barrel with a custom designed comp on it. The spring had to be adjusted for bullet weight & velocity. This was NOT a haphazzard jump, but was researched based on the bullet weight & velocity required. And it was based on many years of open class shooting info.

    With a Glock, stock rocks!


    uncle albert
     
  7. No break-in with the Glock. The G20 Gen 4 is very difficult to find, great gun. Plenty of guys shoot .40's out of a 10mm Glock. Most of the factory 10mm ammo is loaded to .40 S&W. Underwood and Double Tap make good ammo for the 10mm.
     

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