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New Binoculars for hunting.

Discussion in 'Sights, Optics and Lasers' started by KaosV, Aug 3, 2010.

  1. KaosV


    Sep 16, 2003
    Looking at new binoculars for hunting. I currently have the Burris Landmark binos that came with my fullfield II scope. I'm happy with the scope but not the binos.

    I'm looking for a new pair under $200.00. I came across the Nikon Trailblazer ATB binos and was wondering if anyone owns them and what they think of them. Also if I do get them should I get the 10x42 or 10x50

  2. RayB

    RayB Retired Member

    Dec 2, 2005
    I don't hunt, but I know a thing or two about optics...

    Keep in mind that 10X is at the upper limit of hand holdability for most of us.

    The larger objectives (50 mm) will gulp in more light and give brighter images. Decide if your low-light needs are worth the trade in cost and/or portability.


  3. 2240


    Jan 5, 2004
    Are you ordering these online? If possible, go to a store that has a large selection of them like Sportsman's Warehouse and look through them at things across the store on their walls. How important is weight to you? Waterproof (rain a lot where you hunt)? Do you wear glasses? Some binoculars are more suited for glass wearers than others. I think the 42's will be adequate unless you hunt heavily pressured elks, they tend to only come out just before dark and leave at the earliest lights. That's where the 50mm objective will give you an extra few minutes. Hope this helped.
  4. RayB

    RayB Retired Member

    Dec 2, 2005

    That's a really good point! :agree:

    Eye relief is a function of eyepiece design, and unless posted by the OEM, not something you can calculate, like exit pupil, which in this case would be 4.2 mm and 5.0 mm respectively.

    Other things to consider, in addition to the weather proofing and eye relief that 2240 mentioned, are diopter design, ease of focus, internal light baffling, lens coatings, etc.

    For Cleaning Optics…

    Do not use paper towel on coated optics--you'll scratch the coatings. Scratches cause lens flares, which are very noticeable in low light.

    Here's How I Clean Exterior Surface Optics:

    - Wash and dry your hands!
    - Blast lens with canned air to remove grit, etc.
    - Use a soft brush and canned air on stubborn grit.
    - Use lens tissue, real cotton balls, nose tissue or soft toilet paper wetted with either solutions noted below.
    - Gently clean with multicoated lens cleaner or a weak solution of ivory soap and warm water.
    - Change tissues or cotton balls several times.
    - Gently remove any soap residue with fresh tissue/cotton wetted with warm, distilled water (not necessary when using lens cleaner).
    - Blast dry with canned air.
    - If need be, polish with fresh dry tissue, cotton, or micro-fiber lens polishing cloth (reserved only for that purpose).
    - Resist the urge to over-clean optics. A scratched lens is scratched forever!

    Yes, bath and nose tissues leave lint, but they don't scratch! The lint is easily blasted away with canned air.

    Note: Be careful not to shake or tip canned air--the propellant may damage coatings. Rather hold the can erect and move the piece being cleaned around. I always spot spray my wrist before shooting a piece. Get canned air on sale at Office Max or buy it at Sam's Club.

    Note: The above-method is safe and works well on all exterior surface optics, like binoculars, rifle scopes, telescope objectives and eyepieces, cameras, DVDs and CDs, fine eyeglasses and sunglasses, and fiber optics.

    Last edited: Aug 14, 2010