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MechTech CCU 10mm: How's it look to ya?

Discussion in 'The 10 Ring' started by ModGlock17, Apr 17, 2013.


  1. ctious

    ctious
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    Some speed number posted in another thread started in the 10 ring.
     

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  2. ctious

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    I curved my block. I had an extra so figured I would try it. Much better feeding. The bullets don't hop anymore and no deformed cast edges. I suggest u do yours as well. All I did was make it curved just in the middle. I would post a pic but this site does not like me when it comes to pics. I can text it to someone if they would like to post it.
     

  3. Tazz10m

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    I didn't try any hard cast as i didn't have any to test. But it slams the whole cartridge into this block so hard that i'm pretty sure it would deform those also at least a little. The block also kicks the cartridge up into the roof of the chamber hard enough to put another dent in bullet as well as a dent in the brass causing a few failures to feed. Contrast this with the fact that both my G20 and G29 feed the rounds almost straight into their respective Glock chambers barely even hitting the ramp.
     
  4. Tazz10m

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    Awesome! I knew it had to work! Can you send a pic to my email address? brooks@brookstactical.com? I'd love to see it! Also, what tool did you choose to do the job with and how deep did you grind it?
     
  5. ModGlock17

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    Great idea. Let me see if I can find a Dremmel stone bit that has a diameter of .400 to .500 then aim for the middle of the block.

    A concavely curved block, like the ramps found on any Glock barrels, would spread the impact force over larger contact area on the cartridge than at a single point. That would lower the force/square inch, thus less likely to dent the bullets.

    Kind of like the splash block at the bottom of the down spout of a rain gutter.

    My only concern would be that you'd want to deposit more metal on the block to form the curvature, rather than take the metal away...
     
    #45 ModGlock17, Apr 30, 2013
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2013
  6. ctious

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    I will email a pic. I. These block cutting away is the right idea. If you look at the flat face of the block when u have the bolt back there is a rather larger jump forward to the chamber. I took mine down quite a bit. More or less matched the block to feed into the ramp of the chamber. Loads slide in like butter. No slamming into the block anymore.
     
  7. ctious

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    I started with a dremel but it was too sloppy. Then too a rat tail file and filed it down. Then used some 220 grit to smooth it then some 800. Then a little metal polish.
     
  8. ctious

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    Email sent. With pics.
     
  9. ctious

    ctious
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    Ran a mag through it this aft. I don't know if its from curving the block or not. But it has a totally new feel. When it feeds it a super smooth feel. No bumps. No damage to chambered rounds. Ran a dummy round of cast a good doz times letting the bolt slam shut. No deformation.

    Mech tech should curve the blocks stock.
     
  10. ModGlock17

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    I took your excellent suggestion and did this.
    [​IMG]

    Notice the Before and After pictures. It cycled very well and worked great!
     
  11. ModGlock17

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    I shot about 20 hardcasts. It went well, accurate and a little softer recoil.

    Afterwards, I ran a mesh lead cleaning plug (Lewis lead remover) through the barrel.

    This is what it looks like at first pass. Wow!
    [​IMG]

    Since PowerBond is selling the plated .401 bullets (at $67 per 500) but not putting a speed limit on it (Berry does) and I tested them at 1,350fps with no tumbling and very good accuracy, I think I'm done with lead bullet for now. I also use their 9mm product and saw no difference compared to true jacketed bullets.

    I'll keep my remaining Lead stock to the easier to clean 6" barrel.
     
    #51 ModGlock17, May 3, 2013
    Last edited: May 3, 2013
  12. Tazz10m

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    Now you know why Glock doesn't want people shooting unjacked lead out of their barrels.
     
  13. Tazz10m

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    I'm making this thread a sticky... that's my decision and i'm stick'n to it!
     
  14. ctious

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    That is a lot of lead. What size were your boolets? Mine are a hair under .402 that I have been shooting.
     
  15. ModGlock17

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    Makes sense! If a slug comes down the barrel while a lot of lead sticking to the wall, it can plug up the (previously) .400" (?) hole real fast ... then the pressure has no where to go but burst the barrel. Medically, it's probably equivalent to cholesterol and a stroke.


    Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire
     
  16. ModGlock17

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    Advertised as .401 but I should measure a few to check.
     
  17. Tazz10m

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    Not really. With a stroke the cholesterol breaks free from a place like your arm and then travels through the arteries and up into the brain. Arteries flowing outward toward the brain get smaller and smaller... eventually whatever breaks free from the artery wall gets to a choke point and blocks the blood flow and starves the brain from oxygen, etc., causing a "stroke". The more that is starved from blood flow, the more that gets damaged... and so the worse the stroke.
     
  18. ctious

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    .4015 is what I found to be min size for my ccu. The ones I am shooting now are .4018. .402 worked but were tighter in the chamber than I wanted.
     
  19. gofastman

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    I got put on "the List" at mechtech, I should hear back from them in 4 weeks or so
     
  20. nickE10mm

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    Try the next size bigger on the bullets. Your cast bullet needs to be at LEAST .001" over groove diameter. For my longslide, that is .401-.4105" at LEAST... For my .44 revolver, that's actually around .431-.432" as I've slugged my barrel measurements. Bullet FIT is the best way to prevent leading.
     
    #60 nickE10mm, May 8, 2013
    Last edited: May 8, 2013