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Mechanical Zero/Boresight Zero

Discussion in 'Band of Glockers' started by Young Once, Apr 11, 2009.


  1. Young Once

    Young Once
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    Has anyone ever tried zeroing their A1'a using mechanical zero or boresight zero method? Are they reliable? The methods are described as follows:
    1. Mechannical zero - adjust front sight until base of post is flush with the top part of the post receptacle, then turn 11 clicks in direction of up, for the drum, turn all the way until the eyepice is to the leftmost, then 17clicks to the right.
    2. Boresight Zero - remove upper and BCG from rifle, then align bore with a target at 25 yards. Then look at sights to see if sight picture is the same. If not adjust sights accordingly until sight as viewed from barrel is now the same as sight as viewed from the iron sights,

    Happy easter to all!
     

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  2. Frontsight68

    Frontsight68
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    Hello

    Both methods are effective just to make it easier and faster to zero your rifle in actual firing. Because if you dont do either one, you might end up not hitting the target paper at all when firing your gun the first time making it a guessing game.

    With the above methods, you at least get to hit the target paper on the first shots. Although you still have to make adjustments by actual firing so that your bullets hit the point of impact that you desire.

    Frontsight
     

  3. jimbullet

    jimbullet
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    Nothing beats getting the rifle to the range and zeroing with live ammo however having said that, the bore sights accelerates the process of you wasting more ammo to get your optics zeroed.
     
  4. Young Once

    Young Once
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    Thanks guys! Really appreciate it.
     
  5. CatsMeow

    CatsMeow
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    Oh how true. It took me 30 rds to zero my rifle's iron sights, the hard way.:whistling:
     
  6. foxyyy

    foxyyy
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    good for you! we consume around 30-50rds zeroing our AR15s here..that is zeroing WEEKLY!!! hehehe :supergrin:
     
  7. isuzu

    isuzu
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    The mechanical zero works. I only used about 20 rounds on my M16.

    One thing, though. You have to select the 300 yard aperture, which is the smaller aperture marked with L. At 25 meters, your POI will be 3" high. At 300 meters, your POI would be dead on.