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LW adjustable trigger stop issue

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by Blowout, Jan 27, 2013.


  1. Blowout

    Blowout
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    Just installed a LW connector, trigger spring and adjustable trigger stop. Adjusted the trigger stop to get a decent trigger reset.

    Testing the reset, I cycled the slide with the trigger pulled and when I let off the trigger the striker fires. Removed and installed a couple more times to see if something would seat better and the same thing.

    If the rear pin in the handle is removed, the striker doesn't fall when the trigger is released with the LW trigger housing installed.

    Reinstalled the OEM trigger housing with the LW spring and connector and everything functions fine.

    The only visable difference I can see (besides the allen screw stop) is the metal tab on the top is thicker on the OEM than the LW trigger housing. Also the OEM has a 1 stamped on the side and the LW has a 2.

    Are there 2 different trigger housings available? Any thoughts why this would occur with the LW trigger stop?


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    #1 Blowout, Jan 27, 2013
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2013
  2. bentbiker

    bentbiker
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    Does the same thing happen if you use the LW housing but add more overtravel? Also, did you check the engagement when the LW housing is in place -- with an inspection slide cover plate?
     

    #2 bentbiker, Jan 27, 2013
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2013
  3. Blowout

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    I adjusted the stop all the way back and had the same issue.

    I used an inspection plate, but didn't check the engagement. Figured it wasn't good when the striker fell. :embarassed:
     
  4. SouthpawG26

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    The housing is actually an OEM part (drilled and tapped for the sets crew, that's all), and its the only OEM part in the LW kit you mentioned.

    Start off by checking that you have the correct housing:
    http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Products.aspx?CAT=231
     
    #4 SouthpawG26, Jan 27, 2013
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2013
  5. Blowout

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    Thats it... the packaging was marked correctly (1896) but the part has 1882 stamped on it. The part is for a 4th gen.
     
  6. Blowout

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    Well after more investigation, it turns out to be the correct part that did not function propery. The 1882 stamp only designates the type ejector and not the whole part. Returned the part for a refund.

    I'm going to drill and tap the OEM trigger housing and install a set screw.
     
  7. Glock+2

    Glock+2
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    huh? correct part and the problem was what?
     
  8. SCmasterblaster

    SCmasterblaster
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    Best of luck figuring this out - no ADs.
     
  9. Blowout

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    Striker would release prematurely. Pull trigger, rack slide while holding trigger down, release trigger, striker releases.

    With OEM housing installed, striker manitained in cocked position when trigger released.
     
  10. Blowout

    Blowout
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    I'm just not impressed at all with the Glock trigger feel. I hoped to make a couple changes that would bring it closer to reasonable. :dunno:
     
  11. SCmasterblaster

    SCmasterblaster
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    Can you find a Glock armorer in your area?
     
  12. SouthpawG26

    SouthpawG26
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    OP you have also added an aftermarket connector and trigger spring. The housing, except for the setscrew, is actually stock. After ruling out a wrong trigger housing, swap in a OEM connector and trigger spring to see what happens..
     
  13. Blowout

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    There is a difference in the housing where the OEM has a 1 cast in the plastic and the LW adjustable had a 2. Since I sent the LW back already, I can't perform the test you suggest.
     
  14. Blowout

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    None that I'm aware of.

    What I don't like is the the grittyness when taking up the slack in the trigger. I don't have much experiance with glock as I do with other pistols, but I can sure tell there are interferences in the pull.

    I'm tempted to bend the connector so it doesn't project so far to the side. It seems to side load the trigger travel bar into the lower frame causing undue friction. Just an observation and I could be all wrong...
     
  15. Blowout

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    Finally got around to bending the connector and it made all the difference in the world. It doesn't feel like it is draging against the frame anymore.

    Here's a segment from the Ghost installation instructions describing the correct outward bend for the connector.

    Check the outward bend angle of the connector. This is done by sliding a piece of (.003 or standard 20 lb paper) paper between the connector and the top portion of the trigger mechanism housing. The paper should slide through with a little resistance. If the paper does not slide through then the connector needs to removed and bent out ever so slightly. If it slides through with no resistance the connector needs to be removed and bent in ever so slightly.
     
  16. JBP55

    JBP55
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    You need to have a Glock Armorer check your pistol out before you go to the range with an unsafe gun.
     
  17. Blowout

    Blowout
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    The issue I had previously with the adjustable trigger stop was corrected when I put the OEM trigger housing back in. No more trigger stop. It's safe now.

    I agree an unsafe gun should never go to the range.
     
  18. AustinTx

    AustinTx
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    Learn to shoot a DA revolver and then move on to a Glock. The OEM trigger is great.
     
  19. glockman99

    glockman99
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    This is worth a watch:

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjhHXtwchgo&list=HL1362780385&feature=mh_lolz"]Truth about 25 Cent Glock Trigger by HPFirearms - YouTube[/ame]
     
  20. Blowout

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    I did ...I carried a 357 Python as my duty weapon....that trigger was/is great. Glock wasn't around yet.

    Adjusting the connector made a significant difference in the trigger pull. As suspected, the connector was dragging on the frame. The LW connector was suppose to be a drop in with no adjustment necessary.....it just needed a little adjustment.