Privacy guaranteed - Your email is not shared with anyone.
Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in '1911 Forums' started by LINKz, Aug 22, 2012.
Sorry for that,.......looks like everyone jumped on ya hard!
Wanna kill these ads? We can help!
no disrespect for Wilson Combat but that is way too much oil. guess its all marketing. the sooner you run out, the more they sell.
Hoppes oil is decent... thin, but it works fine.
Heck, I just use the same motor oil I put into my truck. Works fine. If you want to spend a lot of money for a little bit of oil, FP10 is nice.
As for where to apply it - rails for sure... generally, your gun will tell you anywhere else. Look for wear spots.
FP10 is great oil,....still have a cinnamon smell to it.
ATF on my parkerkerized ATI and Rock Island: Dunk it, remove and let drip dry, then shoot 4 or 5 magazines and it's perfect!
OR you could go to
for the original Owners Manual and see what they say..light oil unless SS, then slightly more.
I do something different on my shooter 1911's..little dab of grease here and there and oily rag to prevent rust.
Has anyone tried a Teflon lube on the rails?
Slide Guide on the Rails & EEZOX on the rest of my guns.
I use CLP on my 1911s.
How much I use depends on the enviornment I'm in, whether a monsoon or a dust bowl. And it a good rust protectant too.
What others use is of very little concern to me. If I see something that I think might be better I might give it a try, but the whizzmogizzmo whoopytydo lastest lube of the week club does not intrest me.
I just picked u a used Norinco 1911A1 and it was dry. Sahara dry. I applied some Gun Butter on the slide and barrel bushing, now it sounds a lot less squeaky. Apart from the slide and bushing, I do not see many contact points that need to be greased. Am I overlooking something?
I add a very, very, very light coat of lubricant on the locking lugs on top of the barrel. Also the same for the swinging link.
Pretty much any place that has metal-to-metal contact.
Not unlike that crotch-rocket in your avatar.
This is what I do and how I do it if it's good enough for a 3000 dollar pistol it's good enough for my Dan Wesson.
All of you have missed the major issue in this whole thread - who falls for the old "I lost my cleaning supplies in the move" lie and cleans his freind's guns?
I'd love to go have the fun of shooting my guns, and then hand them to a friend to clean them for me! I used to think thats what my sons were for, but then they grew up and moved out on their own, now I'm back to cleaning my own . . .
Lube?!? Who need lube when everything is coated in NP3 ???
Yes, that's my STI Spartan with a full NP3 treatment!
Are you serious about that? I had Robar do my Commander in NP3+, and it seemed like the lady told me to keep it lubed for the first 200 rounds, and after that it wouldn't need lubing. Later, I thought I must have mis-understood her, and continue to lube my Commander.
Do you REALLY not lube your NP3 plated Spartan?
That crotch rocket in my avatar is a two-strokes engined animal. It needs a lot more lube than an M1911.
Taken right from Robar's website:
SELF-LUBRICATING: PTFE is deposited throughout the coating so for most firearms no additional lubrication is needed after initial break-in.
My bedside 1911 was finished in NP3+. While I'm absolutely sure it would run dry, I still lube per normal. (insert cheap joke here)
When it's my life I'll err on the side of caution. No point in running it dry.
This is true. Over-lubing can actually be worse that underlubing, because too much oil traps dirt and metal particles and actually helps that junk move into bad places.
There comes a certain point at which more oil does not mean better friction prevention.