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Discussion in '1911 Forums' started by Polak, Jul 7, 2012.
I really really really like this 1911. Are there any other options for the $1100?
The Springfield TRP is in that price range and a far sight more gun. My FIL has the Tactical Pro II and it wont go 100 rounds between FTFs. It's a shame because it is a pretty cool gun... light weight too. His other 1911 is a Taurus PT1911 and he carries that over the Tactical Pro if that tells you anything.
I have had two tactical II series pistols not to mention over a dozen Kimbers. After buying the first one, I developed a "Break in" process that works flawlessly. Its patented, so do not share it with anyone.
Disassemble, put a thin coat of cheap white Colgate toothpaste on on the rails and the slide, the kind you get at hotels etc.
Re-assemble, run the action about 200 times, disassemble, clean and repeat.
Clean a last time, lubricate and voila
After the first go round, you should start to see some high / shiny spots begin to show. They are more prevalent in a gun with coatings (as opposed to a SS or Alloy and Stainless gun), these are often the cause of issues with new Kimbers.
I just bought a NIB Gold Combat yesterday and performed this very same procedure. The first 40 test fire rds were flawless, and they were reloads.
That said, I owned the gun you mentioned above, the frame is alloy on a steel slide. What are your intentions for it? Another Kimber no longer made is called a Gold Guardian. Only 300 made, but a beautiful stainless gun, hand finished with the same features as above minus the coatings. They can be had for the same $1100.00
If you seek something more economical, look at the Ruger. For $700, its not a bad pistol at all.
Whichever Kimber you buy, try the procedures above and I am confident it will alleviate the break in issues most Kimber owners have.
I have never heard of doing this. Does it work for any pistol?
Sounds like using a fine grit to polish the rails would be similar.
That's exactly it, but a grit so fine as to only remove coatings and polish metal. I have also heard of someone using a metal polish with similar abrasive factors.
In theory, is should work on any gun with tight tolerances between rail and slide. I just traded for a new Gold Combat yesterday. I performed the aforementioned process on it prior to firing the first round. After 200 rds of reloads, it runs like a scalded ape humping a singer sewing machine. Not one issue. Despite the price tag of such a pistol, I am hesitant to say it would have run as well had I not worked the fast eddie magic.
Where are you getting a TRP for $1100 these days?
Used, I assume.
Well maybe retail is a little more $.
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