Installing Glock Rear Sight?

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by duncan, Mar 9, 2011.

  1. duncan

    Millennium Member Lifetime Member

    For the life of me, I just cannot tap the plastics rear cheapo sight into the dovetail.

    Tapping in in a vise, slowly with a punch from right to left and the sight goes in but starts rising as it drifts near dead center.

    What am I doing wrong? I know, metal sights.


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  3. ZekerMan

    ZekerMan ZekerMan

    Is this the same sight that was on the pistol? Brand new sight? May have a burr on it that needs a little filing.

  4. Yeah, it could be something in the dovetail.

    The only time I've put a used plastic sight back in it seemed kind of bowed to me. I got it started then very lightly clamped it down with a small plastic clamp. The clamp will move as you tap but if you can keep it in the dovetail 'till it's started to hold it should work.

    If you keep letting it pop up the edge can get rounded enough that you might have to file the plastic a bit to get a better edge. If so, don't file the side, only the upper edge.

  5. It will much less of a hassle to go to a smith that has the correct sight pusher. The glock sights are not ment to be drifted out in the way you are doing it.
  6. Proper tools make all the difference. Your method works best on steel sights.

    If this is your only Glock-- pay the armorer $20 to put it in for you-- easiest, cheapest solution. If you buy the nightsights from them, sometimes they install for free.

    If you have multiple glocks, then invest the tools. ~$80 for the rear pusher ~$15 for the front staker or wrench. The advantage of owning your tools is that you can drift your rear sight if needed.
  7. cciman is right, the propper tools make all the difference. I bought a sight aligment tool for the glock a couple of years ago to aligh it for my odd ball sighting at the time. It was about 70 bucks at the time from some glock site, and I was able to tweak my sight with out having to constantly return to the gunsmith to move it over a hair every time. Since then I have use that tool to align the sight on 2 other of my glocks and even replace the rear site on my g26. It's also helped other people at the range move their sights over a hair at the range. Just the ease of moving the sight over or taking it off was worth the money.
  8. duncan

    Millennium Member Lifetime Member

    I've been basement smithing for 10 years go - 1911s, Glocks, AR-15 because I love working on my own guns and my friends' too.

    You're right. My method only works on metal sights.

    I was just trying to get by for a while with the cheapo Glock plastic sights until I get by my range for some $55 Meps.

    But I am do for a rear sight pusher. Which do you guys like?

    MGW makes a flat-sided and slanted rear rear sight pusher that I can buy ($85):


    Aren't most night sights slanted?

    I know my old MMCs are flat and the Dawsons look flat too.
  9. duncan

    Millennium Member Lifetime Member

    Don't you loctite your rear in place?

    I drift my sights dead center of the dovetail and confirm with dial calipers and then comes the green or blue loctite.
  10. dead center on the slide is not foolproof.

    variations in gun tolerances, grip/stance, head position, astigmatism, lighting all affect round placement.

    Not a big deal for urban combat/defense (actually no sights needed for that purpose), but for looking good on paper, you may have to move the sight off the midline.
    #10 cciman, Mar 17, 2011
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2011
  11. Most Glock sights are slanted.

    MGW works fine except for what I cited previously. You need to do some live fire, range sighting in, to confirm. Probably true to all of them.

    It is a solid tool.
  12. duncan

    Millennium Member Lifetime Member

    So is loctiting the rear sights necessary at all?

    Especially if we are talking about drifting at the range for the absolute best accuracy.
  13. how do you install a factory glock steel rear sight?
  14. Use a sight tool as mentioned previously.

  15. came in the mail, what i used was a hammer and a piece a wooden steel brush handle and it took the plastic one straight out and put the steel right in. did in on the side of duck tape, saved myself 50 bucks of having the dealer do it, and 100 bucks for teh sight installation tool. just measured the slides exposed surface one each side of the sight by eye and it looks pretty good. will do some fine tuning next time im at the range. thanks for all your input. did NOT use loctite. there is no way it is necesarry.
  16. Check out the sight pusher at this is OK). Most robust made pusher I have ever used and being able to use a 3/4" wrench while pusher is in a vise makes the most stubborn sights go in like greased lightening.

    No flex or give to this tool and made simple enough so years down the road if you need to replace anything, it can mostly be found at local hardware store.

    I covered mine in thin leather in the locking blocks and sight blade. Never a scratch. I got the gunsmith set and haven't found a gun it doesn't work on yet. It's got a great price also. Owner is more than easy to work with and created some extra parts so I could setup 2 presses like I wanted them.

    I have no stake but will certainly tell it like it is. Others might have more polish but this one works. No t-handle straining either.

    30 years working on guns and 20 years as a licensed FFL. It flat out works.

    Added: Know how to properly fit a sight before man handling it into a dovetail. I lightly file(extreme fine) bottom of sight until it goes about half its length into dovetail before pressing. Helps remove the nasty air between sight and slide too. Never adjust the dovetail. Green loctite is also your friend. Add a little and tap slide with rubber tiny hammer to vibrate the green in and under.
    #16 SiGlockBoy, Feb 6, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2013

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