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Installing a gas block

Discussion in 'Black Rifle Forum' started by welco425, Jan 27, 2010.


  1. welco425

    welco425
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    I have a LH Stag AR with the standard front sight that is pinned. I have a scope on it and want to replace the front sight with a gas block. How hard is this if I do it myself?

    The gun shops I have asked will charge around $150.00 to $175.00 to do this. If I cannot do this myself I will save my coins and buy a new upper with the gas block

    Let me know
    Thanks
     

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  2. javelinadave

    javelinadave
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    Hebrew Hammer

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    Not hard at all.
    1) Spray pins with WD-40 or some other penetrating oil. They may need to soak for a bit.
    2) Remove the flash hider.
    3) With a small punch, drift out the gas tube pin and the two pins (left to right) holding on the sight tower.
    4) Remove sight tower.
    5) If you got this far, you can figure out the rest.

    **** If your flash hider is pinned, soldered and or welded on, go to plan "B" and buy a new upper with a gas block.****
     

    #2 javelinadave, Jan 27, 2010
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2010
  3. welco425

    welco425
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    Thanks the flash hider is not pinned or welded. Any suggestions on which gas block to buy?
     
  4. javelinadave

    javelinadave
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    Hebrew Hammer

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    Personal choice, I'm an iron sight man myself.
     
  5. 1811guy

    1811guy
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    Formerly1811guy2

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    If you are going with a FF rail, I would install an Vltor low profile block and extend the rail over the block. Get the set screw one, not the clamp on one (it won't clear many FF rails). It is vastly better to get the block and barrel drilled and install with taper pins, but you should be okay if once the block is aligned you drill dimples in the barrel for the set screws, properly torque the set screws, and use high temp. loctite.
     
  6. faawrenchbndr

    faawrenchbndr
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    CLM

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    There are a few very important things to consider,.....

    1st off, the pins are tapered. One end is smaller than the other,
    make sure you drive them out the correct direction.

    2nd, decide what manufacturer's rail you want to install BEFORE
    you buy the gas block. Some rails do not fit over some gas block

    3rd, some rails require removing the barrel to replace the barrel nut
    for mounting the rail. Ensure you have the proper tools to hold the upper
    receiver if you need to remove the barrel nut. You will need an action block set,
    about $55, and you will need a barrel nut tool, these are $20-45
    You will also need a bench mounted vise to clamp the action block in.

    Scroll down in this link,......tons of good info here.

    http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782
     
    #6 faawrenchbndr, Jan 27, 2010
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2010
  7. tlafrance

    tlafrance
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    Missing AZ

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    Where are you located?

    Tom
     
  8. furioso2112

    furioso2112
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    Double-check that the correct drift is left to right (oriented as you shoulder the rifle) - I have heard that while nearly all FSBs are this way, there are some that are not. My Bushmasster was left to right - the pin ends will be slightly (noticeable on mine to the naked eye, but barely) smaller on the side you want to drift from.

    A lo-pro is a good idea, in the event you EVER want to install a FF handguard, and just less material on the rifle (given at least same quality of gas block) is not a bad idea. Also, you might consider a flip-up front sight if that would meet your application. If you find that the barrel is not treated under the FSB you remove, you might also want to consider treating it before re-installing the new gas block. I researched a bit before I did this to my Bushy, and chose Brownell's Oxpho-Blu, no-drip formula (~$10). It worked well, easy to apply, good color match, especially considering that most of the treated area was covered by the flip-up front sight I put back on the rifle.

    There are pictorial threads on AR-15.com that detail this process - AR-15>Build it Yourself>stickied near the top of the page ("build/install your own...upper/lower/handguard/etc." or something similar is the title).

    A rather easy process - took all of a few minutes going slowly and thinking it through, fairly intuitive, really.
     
  9. welco425

    welco425
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    Baton Rouge, LA
     
  10. welco425

    welco425
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    Thanks for all the information and red flags. I am going to call Stag to get the answers to the questions that were raised.
     
  11. sgtlmj

    sgtlmj
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    One other caution to drifting out tapered fsb pins is to strike hard and fast to break them free. Small taps will only peen the ends if they don't come out right away.

    Secure your fsb in a bench block or by some other method, line up your drift punch well, and give a good first strike.
     
  12. tlafrance

    tlafrance
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    Missing AZ

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    OK. If you were in AZ, I'd just have you bring it over :supergrin:

    Tom