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Inspecting .40 s&w brass (newb here!)

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by bjesse60, Aug 16, 2010.

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  1. bjesse60

    bjesse60

    319
    5
    Aug 7, 2008
    KY
    I am soon going to be reloading .40 for my G23 and have been studying as much as I can here. I just recieved some brass that has been cleaned but I would like to get some opinions on sorting it, all Speer headstamp and alot of it seems to have the ever so slight Glock buldge. What are your opinions on sorting for the forty, obviously I will discard any that look over stressed or split but how do you guys determine with the buldge? I will just be med. loading for range use only and would prefer to get the most life out of the brass. Thank's :cool:
     
  2. Glockin26

    Glockin26

    528
    0
    Feb 22, 2010
    Renton, WA
    Toss anything thats cracked or split. The glock bulge can be remedied by your resizing die. What loading system are you using?
     


  3. bjesse60

    bjesse60

    319
    5
    Aug 7, 2008
    KY
    Please don't flame me but I will be using a Lee Classic turret with all the components, I still need a few things such a powder scale, bullets & powder though.
     
  4. Glockin26

    Glockin26

    528
    0
    Feb 22, 2010
    Renton, WA
    LCT is a great place to start, that's what quite a few of us started with and still use. Don't forget a set of calipers.
     
  5. at_liberty

    at_liberty

    609
    4
    Jun 19, 2010
    Upstate SC
    No advice here but just describing what I do. Bottom line, the case has to freely go in your gun's chamber. I prefer to use a Lyman Gauge, which also allows checking primer insertion depth and max OAL. I want any cases that will not go into my gauge discovered before I have them loaded.

    I run all my .40 SW used brass through a pass through sizer. I have both the Lee Bulge Buster and the Redding G-Rx. They both work but only the Lee will work on loaded ammo, which is a feature that surprisingly came in handy on someone else's remanufactured ammo, some of which wouldn't chamber. The Lee specifies that cases be sized first (and decapped) but both dies work okay without presizing. That way you won't have sizing dies making sharp ridges at the head of the bulge. Get the bulge first, even if needing some lube.

    The sequence leaves the bulge area sized a little bit larger than the forward area sized by the regular sizing die. I try to achieve a seamless transition without boundary line, no evidence of special treatment and irregular places that could fail to feed.

    Since you are pushing an entire case through these bulge busters, any extractor ding or burr on the head can cause extreme resistance against passing through the die. They will go but deserve a look with some magnification once through. Some extra TLC with a file may be necessary. If it will freely drop in the gauge, it's good.

    I don't find many problems but still gauge every case after this resizing process. These cases are returning from scrap status, unable to be loaded as-is, so a bit extra effort beats having to buy new cases.
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2010
  6. DWARREN123

    DWARREN123 Grumpy Old Guy

    7,180
    1,216
    Jan 25, 2008
    Clarksville, Tn.
    As long as there are no cracks, splits or damaged case heads then resize and go for it.
     
  7. No flaming here. I have the Lee loadmaster and hand press, and haven't blown anything up as of yet. If you've been following along, you know there are differences of opinions on equipment. It's a great start, if your just making plinking rounds, you dont really have to sort out the cases. Just inspect them, like G26 said, and reload them. Once you get started, it's additive!