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Gwrring rid of pretravel

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by AzShooter1, May 31, 2011.


  1. AzShooter1

    AzShooter1
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    I just bought a Glock 17 and it's a fine weapon. A local Glock expert did a trigger job and set it up at just over 3 lbs. that's not too bad. I remember years ago I had mine set to 2 lbs and perfect helping me win a number of matches around here.

    The Glock holds up to thousands of rounds without malfunctions so now that I'm trying an auto again I figured I'd go back to what I know works.

    But I can't get used to the pre travel. What is the best trigger option that will eliminate pretravel. I've seen the Vanek and the Glockmeister but are they the best or is there something better?
     

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  2. MoNsTeR

    MoNsTeR
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    The Vanek kit will get you into the neighborhood of 2 pounds but will not reduce pre-travel. Nor should it, as pre-travel is good. Learn to use the trigger more like a 2-stage and your desire to eliminate pre-travel will disappear.
     

  3. cciman

    cciman
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    The Glock trigger is a poorly understood piece of art.

    that pretravel (slack) is part of the intrinsic design (trigger movement over the firing pin safety) of the glock.

    You cannot get rid of it. But you can spend alot of money trying. Just learn it, and ignore it. Take the slack out before firing (as the gun is presented forward), smooth pull, not a hollywood wack, and learn the trigger reset point (which is very short), then there is no slack on followup shots.

    A qualified glock trigger artist is just as fast as any other gun.
     
  4. 1006

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  5. cciman

    cciman
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  6. cciman

    cciman
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  7. Bowtie

    Bowtie
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    Yes, it can be done.

    Ducks method works very well and maintains all three safeties working as designed.
     
    #7 Bowtie, Jun 10, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2011
  8. cciman

    cciman
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    Duck's method is not very well delineated, or seems to be piecemeal spread amongst various threads, almost like there's hesitancy in giving up the black arts..

    Is there a succinct outline of the process somewhere (pictures would be nice, too)?
     
  9. Bowtie

    Bowtie
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    Let me see what I can find..


    EDIT: It was save on my laptop before it crashed..
     
    #9 Bowtie, Jun 10, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2011
  10. Duck of Death

    Duck of Death
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    *QUOTE*
    almost like there's hesitancy in giving up the black arts.

    OK, here's the dark secret...heat and bend the arm of the cruciform sear toward the barrel, then reslot the trigger safety.

    You've just eliminated the take up.
     
    #10 Duck of Death, Jun 12, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2011
  11. cciman

    cciman
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    This essentially reduces pretravel by limiting forward travel of the trigger.

    I tried that (bending cruciform trick), to about slightly <90-degrees- I was not impressed with the result. Made the trigger mushier up to release. Granted, I did not take it to the piont that I had to slot the trigger safety. (do you trim the trigger safety plastic- or the frame??) Can you post a pic of the slotting?

    If I look up into the magwell and watch the action of the trigger pretravel on the striker safety, i don't get how the striker safety is not turned off by limiting the forward travel of the trigger bar. By reducing the forward travel, I think that the striker safety button is in the sweet spot of the trigger bar- thus off.
     
  12. Bowtie

    Bowtie
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    I brought mine out far enough to just make contact with the firing pin safety without depressing it.
     
  13. Duck of Death

    Duck of Death
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    *QUOTE*
    do you trim the trigger safety plastic- or the frame??)

    Trigger safety.

    *QUOTE*
    I tried that (bending cruciform trick), to about slightly <90-degrees- I was not impressed with the result.

    This will aid in lightening the trigger pull. Smooth the contact surfaces, they're causing the mush.
     
  14. kashdaddy

    kashdaddy
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    Try the fulcrum trigger package. Best trigger on the market!