Grip reduction by candle

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by Landsharkleather, Sep 6, 2013.


  1. I have been seeing something called the candle stick method of grip reduction. I am looking for some detailed instruction on how to do it. Anyone have any links to share?
     

    Wanna kill these ads? We can help!
  2. Of all the methods available, this has always seemed (to me) hands down the scariest. Actually taking a flame to your plastic gun in order to reshape it.
    To answer your question.. try typing in Candle Method Glock Grip Reduction in Google Image, or YouTube. You're sure to get hits.
     

    #2 TruthNotRelative, Sep 6, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2013
  3. I did the candle stick method on a G26 and it was kinda tough to do. It seems you have to hold the area over the candle for a long time.
    You hold your grip area over a candle until it gets soft and roll that area on a hard service to basically push in until you get a reduction. Jim
     
  4. Thanks Jim, question do you sand down the grip smooth if you are going to stipple when it's done?
     
  5. I tried but there is not much I could find with specific details of how to.
     
  6. Delete
     
    #6 TruthNotRelative, Sep 7, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2013
  7. It's a very scary thing, and not advised, to attempt this sort of thing if you've never done anything like this before and/or are not "good with your hands".

    I will say that if you're going to try to employ the candle method, sanding down the blackstrap is going to significantly weaken that area beacause to sand down enough to flatten it out for stippling, you'll have to remove a lot of material.

    Actually, from my experience, what most people do in this situation is to employ a soldering iron to smooth down (using the side of the pointed tip), and even out the checkering on the blackstrap, then sand (only to smooth, not necessarily remove material) it down a bit, then stipple. This way, you lose no material, it's just "redistributed" so to speak. That's exactly what I did when performing my last GR. The same would apply to the front checkering between the finger grooves.

    Personally, had I the funds, I would go with a pro 99% of the time even though it usually costs a pretty penny. That way you're absolutely assured that you're not going to regret what you've done. Personally, I have enough confidence to pull of a good GR, and so, I don't go the pro route (I can't afford it either). Even though I can pull it off myself, we're it not for California laws (having to go through an ffl both ways), I'd consider the pro route myself half of the time.

    Btw, have you seen my post of the "paradigm/Robar" backs traps? If you decide to pay to have something done, to me, this looks like a great option.
     
    #7 TruthNotRelative, Sep 7, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2013
  8. In my case when I did the candle GR the pattern will just push down also because of the heat and the pressure you are applying when it is soft. So it will need a new stipple anyway. Jim
     
  9. Atlas

    Atlas transmogrifier

    I did it and it worked great for me.
    The stippling did flatten a bit, only in a very small area at the backstrap.
    When I get time I will sand it down smooth and probably use the soldering iron method to re-stipple it.

    In an abundance of caution, I did this-
    I took a kitchen sponge and cut it into strips.
    I disassembled a magazine, soaked a strip of sponge with water, then stuffed it into the magazine, and left it in the freezer overnight.
    Then before beginning the reduction procedure I inserted the frozen mag.

    If I had it to do again I might not bother with all that...




    Here's the thing...
    You must go very slowly.

    You hold the pistol (pointing upward of course so the backstrap is facing down toward the candle) well above the candle flame.
    You begin with the backstrap so far above the candle flame that it doesn't really heat the plastic much at all. Then you begin to lower it toward the flame a little at a time, while checking with your finger to get a feel for how far to hold the pistol so that it begins to slowly heat up the plastic.

    Move the pistol back and forth over the flame to spread the heating effect across the backstrap surface.


    It is plastic, keep that in mind. So here's the thing... there is a point where you are just close enough to the flame that the plastic heats slowly but steadily.
    You have to discover this point so that the plastic will heat throughout the thickness of the plastic, enough to just begin to soften it.

    Important point: You're looking for a point where the plastic is hot enough that it can be deformed under pressure, but NOT hot enough to begin to melt the surface of the plastic.


    So, periodically press the pistol backstrap down hard against a table or other hard surface.


    Important point: you will not heat the plastic enough that you can flatten the backstrap all at once.

    So it's an iterative process...
    Heat, press hard, enough to flatten it just a tiny bit.
    Heat, press again to get a little more.
    Repeat as needed.
    It may take 8 or 10 cycles.

    When you remove the plastic from above the flame to press it down against the tabletop, it will of course begin to cool immediately, so you must move quickly.


    Some say they used a Glock mag-loading tool ('cause its cheap) to practice a bit first, to learn how to heat it without causing damage.



    Important point: You can get more change (flattening) down near the bottom of the grip toward the mag-well than you get up higher toward the slide, because of the overall shape of the backstrap.
    Down toward the mag well is where you really need it most though, because that's where the hump is most pronounced.

    I wouldn't even try to get any flattening up higher.. I would advise focusing only on the hump down at the bottom of the grip as a starting point. Get that hump flattened down a bit and see how that feels first.


    My hands are little-girl tiny. I did this on.... my G19.
    The G19 was OK before I did this procedure, but afterwards it feels like it was custom-made for my hand.



    Yeah, I'll have to sand and re-stipple that tiny area at the rear of the grip.
    For me it was more than worth it.

    Does it effect the resale value? Almost certainly a bit.
    I couldn't possibly care less about that. I would would never part with it, at any price.


    .
     
    #9 Atlas, Sep 7, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2013
  10. Atlas explained the process perfectly. It will give you a totally different feel than before. Good Luck. Jim.
     
  11. SCmasterblaster

    Millennium Member

    I've been a Glock owner since 1989 - never heard of it.
     
    #11 SCmasterblaster, Sep 8, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2013
  12. Thanks atlas very good info.
     
  13. I just put it in the microwave and then reached in and grabbed it. Perfect form fit. :whistling:

    Important note: unload gun first. I learned that the hard way but the turn table really made it kind of fun and unpredictable.
     
    #13 Dave514, Sep 17, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2013
  14. TexasPOff

    TexasPOff "Dump The Hump"

    The heat and form method works for me. :)

    [​IMG]

    TXPO
     
  15. Angry Fist

    Angry Fist *******!!®
    Lifetime Member
    1. Glock Talk's Drunk Squad

    34,895
    1,826
    1,963
    I'd really like to do the mag button recess... tips? :wavey:
     
  16. Glocks look so much better, with rounded trigger guards.
     
  17. If I wanted some grip alterations done I am reasonably certain I would just send it to Cold Bore Custom rather than try something myself.
     
    #17 Bruce M, Sep 18, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2013
  18. Atlas

    Atlas transmogrifier

    I can understand that...

    The procedure I described above resulted for me in as much grip alteration as I wanted.

    In only one hour, far less time than shipping the pistol.


    I had to take a deep breath though...

    .
     
    #18 Atlas, Sep 18, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2013
  19. Cold Bore Customs FTW.

    No candles around my frames.

    Sent from my SPH-M930BST using Ohub Campfire mobile app
     
  20. OldSchool64

    Platinum Member

    8,042
    1,518
    1,713
    That looks pretty good, but then that's no surprise, seen some of your other work too :cool:
     

Share This Page