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Got my press... Bullets.

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by G1ock N9nteen, May 4, 2010.

  1. G1ock N9nteen

    G1ock N9nteen

    59
    0
    Feb 10, 2010
    Got a LCT some range brass, Hodgdon Universal, Federal primers. But no bullets. I'm thinking of some Precision Delta FMJs. Will things change if I get some different bullets to tide me over? I'm heading down to Warehouse Sports (formally Sportsman Warehouse over here) to grab some bullets and a reloading book.
     
  2. XDRoX

    XDRoX

    6,322
    2,123
    Jan 24, 2009
    San Diego
    What do you mean by "Will things change?"
    People really like PD, I've read good things about them. I shoot Berry's an Rainier's plated bullets and have had great luck with them. I like the Berry's more as they seem to be more consistent in weight and size.
     


  3. fredj338

    fredj338

    21,708
    925
    Dec 22, 2004
    so.cal.
    What caliber? Bullets are pretty much available acoross the caliber spectrum; Berry's ranier, PrecDelta & at least a dozen good cast bullet sources.
     
  4. G1ock N9nteen

    G1ock N9nteen

    59
    0
    Feb 10, 2010
    Will I need to start the load over when I switch bullets? Is bullet manufacture as important as bullet type? I know I'll learn more when I re what ever book I'm getting, but I love to has much info as possible.
     
  5. G1ock N9nteen

    G1ock N9nteen

    59
    0
    Feb 10, 2010
    Starting with the 9 then I'm going .40, .45 and .38/380
     
  6. fredj338

    fredj338

    21,708
    925
    Dec 22, 2004
    so.cal.
    It's not so much bullet manuf as bullet construction & shape. Unless you load using the exact same bullets as the data, you are going to have to extrapolate. Match the bullets shape w/ the bullet in the data. Lead bullets load diff than jacketed, plated load diff than either. Some bullets have specific issues, like the Rem GoldenSabers, they have a driving band not a long bearign surface, & load longer than some others.
    The biggest diff in bullet shape is OAL. A RNFMJ will have a longer OAL than a JHP of the same wt. Sounds complicated, but as long as you match the bullets you are using w/ the shape/construction of the bullets in the data, always work up your loads, you should be fine.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2010
  7. BBJones

    BBJones

    1,173
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    Mar 2, 2010
    From one newb reloader to another -

    Before you get all the ingredients to load, read a good reloading manual first (or 2, or 3). With everything sitting in front of you, you may be tempted to start loading before you have the requisite knowledge.

    As to your question. If you are going out to buy some 115FMJ from company A and then later decide you want to use 115FMJ from company B, your load will "PROBABLY" not be affected much. However, this is predicated on your loads not pushing the envelope (min OAL, Max OAL, powder charge etc..). If you had a medium load with the first bullet and then did the same load with another bullet of the same type you "SHOULD" be OK. The old rule of thumb is to start at the minimum and work up whenever you change a componet. When talking about lead, plated, FP, and JHP alot more variance exists between manufacuters

    I use Zero FMJ's (from Roze Distribution) and have had excellent results with them. Montana Gold is another popular choice (they ship very fast with minimal to no wait). No experience with PD but hear they are fine. Be careful you don't confuse plated bullets with FMJ. Plated should be loaded as if they are lead.

    Please just go slow and don't get in a hurry.
     
  8. I started reloading recently and immediately discovered that it's pretty hard to find bullets that won't make your reloaded rounds cost more than factory ammo. So far the most affordable bullets I found (9mm FMJ) were Precision Delta, followed by Berry's.
     
  9. Colorado4Wheel

    Colorado4Wheel

    14,937
    166
    Nov 2, 2006
    CO
    You have to buy everything in bulk. Primers and Powder. If you find a good deal locally then thats fine. But often buying in bulk saves you a lot of money.
     
  10. G1ock N9nteen

    G1ock N9nteen

    59
    0
    Feb 10, 2010
    Ya I just got 5k primers in the mail today. I'm testing out Universal to see If I like it before I buy anything bigger. If I like it I can pick up what I believe is a #8 container of Universal for around $80.
     
  11. ron59

    ron59 Bustin Caps

    6,927
    20
    Jan 3, 2009
    Smyrna, GA

    Seriously? I'm not sure what this means. I also load 9mm (147gr Montana Gold bullets - they are CMJ), and I can reload 1000 of these for $138.00 (assuming my brass is free, which it is in that I didn't have to "buy" it). If the moly's I'm about to try out are smoke-free enough I can shoot them indoors... price would be more like $100 per 1000.

    Go out and buy 1000 rounds of factory ammo for that price. Show me where, and I'll stop reloading. Heck, Walmart WWB 115gr stuff is $23.00 per 100 count, which works out to like $250 per 1000. ($138 per 1000 as opposed to $250? That's no comparison, IMHO.)

    Now... I order my powder in the 8 pound jug from Powder Valley, and primers 10,000 at a time from there also, so they only cost me $27.00 per 1000, maybe you're paying too much for primers.

    But whatever it is that you're doing.... you're doing it wrong. ;) (sounds like I'm being a jerk, that's more a joke. But I WOULD look at how you're buying if the prices for factory vs. hand-reloaded are that close for you).
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2010
  12. BBJones

    BBJones

    1,173
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    Mar 2, 2010
    +1 to what ron said. Primers 10k at a time. Powder 8# at a time. Bullets 10k at a time.

    .13 per round 9mm with FMJ
    .17 per round .45 with FMJ

    No factory loaded stuff is even close to that price. For rifle the savings are even more, but rifle reloading is more labor intensive.

    Reloading has finally allowed me to shoot as much as I want.
     
  13. IndyGunFreak

    IndyGunFreak

    25,800
    1,062
    Jan 26, 2001
    Indiana
    Totally agree with both of the above posters.....

    I'm also at .17 for .45 and .14 for 9mm... That's around 170 and 140 for 1000rds..... I've not had to buy WWB value packs for a while, but I think they are running around $22 per 100 for 9mm.... Assuming that is accurate.. all you have to do is... the math. :)

    IGF
     
  14. billy396

    billy396

    720
    1
    Jun 28, 2007
    columbus,ohio
    I've been reloading since the late '70's, and for pistol bullets, I love Berry's, Montana Gold, Rainier, Zero, Hornady, and Remington. I've never had any trouble from any of these. As previous people have noted, make sure you read all of the info you need before loading. Plated bullets shouldn't be loaded as hot as jacketed, etc. I, personally, gauge every round after I take it out of the press. That way I know it's on the money. That's not really necessary if you have a good setup. Some people don't even have bullet gauges, they just use a barrel out of one of the guns they're going to be shooting with. A good set of gauges is handier to use and you know every round is perfect as far as OAL and diameter. I have a Dillon 550 progressive loader, and I would recommend it to anyone. Like many people, I started with an RCBS Rock Chucker. They both work just as good as the other, but the progressive press just gets you there faster as far as numbers of rounds loaded. Always concentrate on what you're doing, you can't reload and watch television, and don't smoke. It's very important to watch every round, as just 1 mistake could destroy a perfectly good gun or even body parts that you might need later. Put one finished 9mm round into a box of .40's and you'll probably regret it, unless you happen to catch it when you're loading mags. Don't ask me how I know, even though I was shooting factory ammo, it could have been my fault, and loading it into the mag was definitely my fault. It did demonstrate just how well those Smith M&P's are designed. All I hurt was the gun. Some people haven't been as lucky. I'll have to try some of those PD's.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2010
  15. IndyGunFreak

    IndyGunFreak

    25,800
    1,062
    Jan 26, 2001
    Indiana
    My brother accidentally shot a 9mm out of my .40 Sig. It didn't do anything but spiral out of the barrel and bulge the case like crazy.

    IGF
     
  16. dudel

    dudel

    5,048
    569
    Dec 10, 2008
    Texas Hill Country
    Grab the book first. It'll point you to which projectiles are suitable for your powder. You don't mention the caliber; but Universal (there are three types) have limited suitability in handgun rounds. Not the most versatile powder for handguns out there.
     
  17. dudel

    dudel

    5,048
    569
    Dec 10, 2008
    Texas Hill Country

    BAD IDEA. It's the OPs first load. Don't go out and buy 10K projectiles that won't feed in your specific gun, or powder that doesn't have the flexibility. When starting out, start small. Work up your load. Once you've got it figured out, THEN go out and buy bulk. Primers are the only component that are safe to buy in large quantities.
     
  18. BBJones

    BBJones

    1,173
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    Mar 2, 2010
    ron was addressing the guy who said reloading was more expensive to reload than buy factory.

    The OP already has most of the stuff to get started reloading. He was going to get some bullets to try then switch to something else.
     
  19. BBJones

    BBJones

    1,173
    0
    Mar 2, 2010

    Universal is fine and there is plenty of loading information for it for 9mm (the caliber that the OP said he was loading first).

    3 types of Universal? are you confusing this with Clays? There are 3 types of powder with clays in their names.