Glock Trigger Pull...HELP!!!

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by Hank Frank, Jun 5, 2006.

  1. I finished the gun last night, and it's fantastic! I used the info submitted by "Duck of Death" and it works. Thank you for taking the time to post the instructions. I presently have a 3 1/2 lb trigger pull (which is what I want), and very nominal pre-traval. It's like shooting a Glock with the reset technique, and not having to hold the trigger back. If anyone at Glock is listening, you should offer a Glock with 2 triggers....the original for carry and one like this for competion/fun. I know so many people who won't own a Glock because of its triggr. I can't wait to let these people try this gun.

    I plan to get out to the range this afternoon and give it a try.

    Wanna kill these ads? We can help!
  2. Bren

    Bren NRA Life Member

    But you are about to take a TDSA class where they will show you why that trigger is not as good for competition as your stock trigger and why trigger re-set is not the best way to shoot a Glock fast. At the end of tyhe class, a bunch of fellow students with stock Glocks will shoot better than you and you'll be unhappy. If I were you, I'd put in a stock 5.5 lb. trigger group for the TDSA class. The good thing about learning to shoot the stock trigger that way is that your carry gun and match gun can be the same.

    I may try out Duck's method on my open Glock and see how it compares - I just won't do it on a carry gun.

  3. Bren:
    As we talked before, I'm looking forward to taking the TDSA course next month. I would like nothing better than to say their method of trigger pull with a stock Glock is the way to go.

    I've have an "obsession" to learn to shoot a Glock before I die. Sigs, Kimbers, Paras, Colts, STI's, SV's...I have no problems with. I may not be the best shot, but I can shoot them comfortly. As for a Glock, you could stand 25yds from me, and not have a concern.

    When I go to the range, I usually carry 8-10 Glocks. This way I can compare one arrangement to another without having to un-modify and re-modify a single gun if I only had one. Besides the Glock trigger pull problem, I have problems with seeing the sights on any gun clearly (age). I'm experimenting with different shooting glasses, different color lens, wearing cheaters behind them...but with the cheaters, the sights are find now, but the target is blurred, and a single bullet hole looks like two. This is my next obsticle to overcome. It seems like most things are worse for age...possibly except for wine.

    As for carrying a Glock, I doubt I'll ever do that. In winter, I carry a compact, lightweight dehorned Kimber 45 from their custom shop. In the summer, I carry the small lightweight 9mm Rohrbaugh.

    I'll let you know how the TDSA course turns out next month.:wave:
  4. Hank Frank

    How's the Rohrbaugh working out for you? I have some interest in them, the aluminum frame is what's putting me off. If made out of stainless, even though heavier, I'd jump on it.

    As for sights take a look at the Dawson Precision fiber optic front sight. Old eyes like the green insert.

    Here's what I did for sights on my G23, G17 & G26:

    Put on a plain black MMC rear made for the Glock and a Dawson Precision Fiber Optical front made for the Glock/Novak rear. The front sight is .160 high. I opened up the MMC rear a little with a Dremel.

    Looks like a small combat rear sight and it's adjustable. The front sight is very low and will fit any holster.
  5. For the "old age" gunsight/vision problem try a baseball cap style hat and pull the brim down to where it appears just above the top of the front sight. Don't know why it works, but it does.
  6. Searcher:

    Thanks for the info. I'll try the baseball cap either today or for sure this weekend.

    Duck of Death:

    The Rohrbaugh is a great little gun, but like you, I would rather have the frame in steel. I feel I have to "baby" the gun more than any other gun I own.

    I've not tried the MMC rear with the Dawson f/o front. Lately,I've been messing with the Heinie Slant Pro. I even kinda like the front and rear combination they give you, reminds me of my 1911's. I did start changing one of the front sight combo's to a fiber optic. Presently, I can't decide if I like red, green or orange fiber, and then to complicate matters, whether I should use .090, .105, or .125 fiber. I think I'm myself's worse enemey...I complicate things too much, but its fun and a challenge. Someday, I would like to discuss the rear sight opening. I'm trying to research what opening Brian Enos used on a rear sight. (some sort of a triangle cut)

    Also, do you know the weight of the striker once you've reduced its mass. I will then have a end result to achieve.

    And for some reason, I can't comprehend how to reslot the trigger, in order to make the trigger safety operable. If I notch the frame itself, will I beable to restore the gun to original, if I decide to sell it? I removed the plastic trigger from the trigger bar last night, but all I did was look at it. One would think this could be an area where some modifications/improvements could take place.

    Have a good day.

  7. Striker weight--I have no idea, but it's light enough with 7 coils off the OEM striker spring to light off CCI primers.

    I DP fiber optic front sight is .125. Using a opened up MMC the opening is square sided and has a lot of light around the sides of the front sight.

    Deepening the slot in the trigger safety (TS):

    When you pull the trigger you also pull the TS, this allows the notch in the TS to clear the frame at the rear of the trigger and the gun will fire. Since you have eliminated the take up the notch is no longer able to come forward enough the engage the fame, thus it must be made deeper.

    If you have another Glock look at the way the TS works when the trigger is forward. See the lip of the TS that catches on the frame when you pull the side of the trigger? Since you've shortened the take up that notch must be deepened so it will once again catch on the frame.

    As far as the trigger and the bar:

    1. Dress the hole and polish the sides where the trigger moves on the trigger bar.
    2. Polish the pin.
    3. Install a metal baring in the trigger for the pin to ride on.
    4. Move the location of the pin to provide more leverage to the trigger pull.

    Added: After deepening the notch in the TS I took it out of the trigger heated the plastic spring and bent it out. This was done to insure the TS worked in it's new configuration. Take the TS out of the trigger the same way you got the trigger off the trigger bar.
  8. Mr DOD:

    I found a titanium striker in one of my parts bins, and installed it. It has a neat effect on the trigger pull. I have yet to try it at the range...probably today or tomorrow. As soon as I learn more and possibly see some pictures on reducing the mass of the original striker, I'll give it a try.

    With regards to the sights, I'm just a few steps behind you. I have opened up the rear notch, and started using fiber in the front sight as stated before. I've gone as far as using a combat cut in the rear, which I like even though its .200 wide...for some reason I don't shoot that gun very well. I feel it's the aftermarket stainless barrel I'm using. I got to get someone locally to shoot the gun. Also, I like the ghost ring rear sights, but I can't shoot them too accurately past 10 yards.(Probably just me) On one of my carry guns, I've gone to a 1/2 ghost ring rear. It's fast and accurate.

    I finally got the trigger safety figured out. I was reading too much into you instructions. I didn't notch the rear of the safety deep it can pop off the frame when pulling the trigger with a little excessive pressure. I will have to file a little more. My notch is about an 1/8inch long on the back side of the TS starting from the top.

    Your item #4 regarding the trigger bar seems to be the "holly grail". I been going back and reading past threads, and this is a subject that is very well guarded. It's amazing the wealth of knowledge that is in the archives of "Glock Talk". I've been spending a lot of time reading these old threads.

    I didn't know the pin holding the trigger safety is plastic, not metal like the other one. I'll just have to be more careful next time.

    Have a good day....
  9. BustedFlush

    BustedFlush Springy Member

    Tagged for future reference - Duck of Death and his trigger mods.

    #29 BustedFlush, Mar 30, 2007
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2009
  10. Duck of Death can you post some pic , I'm going to try some of it .
  11. +1 Id like to see those as well.
  12. tagged
  13. hrt4me

    Millennium Member

    Bren, would you please elaborate on this?
  14. The really "trick" Glock trigger jobs move the location of the trigger pin (that goes into the trigger bar) in the trigger itself (among other mods). An expert on the Brian Enos forum posted the details a while back and I did it to my G35. I got the trigger as good as possible, but it still is a Glock trigger so it will never be good like a 1911 or other gun which has a sear and a trigger that can be tuned.

    As for the striker spring: you can get a "Lightning Strike" reduced mass striker that greatly increases strike energy and that will let you cut the striker spring force down significantly (which does lighten trigger pull).
    #35 Alizard, Apr 8, 2012
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2012
  15. he or at least that site went belly up
  16. DakotaGlockGuy

    DakotaGlockGuy Polymer Artist

    Duck of Death,

    You've obviously spent a TON of time on your trigger work, but I didn't see any mention of the firing pin safety.

    What are your thoughts on radiusing the FPS vs. leaving it in it's stock, angled form? Does it change the feel as well?

  17. Previous posters got married, had children, and even became grand parents since this thread was started.

    Most had a fruitful life, have retired, and some may have even died of old age.

    So a big, and in some cases posthumous, thanks to all helpful posters!
  18. Bren

    Bren NRA Life Member

    It's not a 1911 or even remotely similar and if you are trying to use the trigger the same way you would a 1911 trigger, you need to get a 1911, because you don't know how to shoot a Glock.

    That's my advice - you either need to learn something about Glocks or go back to 1911 an Sig.
  19. I absolutely agree with this.
    Its like driving a Miata, then complaining that the brakes or shifter do not feel the same as a Boxter. HELLO!

    #40 cciman, Feb 2, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2013

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