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Glock Cleaning/Lubricating Question(s)

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by GaleForce, Dec 14, 2010.

  1. GaleForce


    Dec 11, 2010
    South FL
    So I've fired 500 rounds through my G-19 now, which was bought new, and just cleaned it for the second time. When I go to the range I put about 100-150 rounds through at a time so I'm going with a schedule of about once every 2nd visit or so, but I guess it really depends on how much I shoot and how dirty it gets. I'm not too concerned about when to clean the gun since I know they're reliable and I figure as long as I don't neglect it I should be alright.

    Anyway the first time I cleaned it I followed the instructions on this video. It ended up spotless however the oiling instructions in the second part pretty much have you putting oil everywhere. In fact I had to wipe it clean because there was just so much oil but I followed the instructions and reapplied oil in all the same places (pretty much everywhere inside the slide and on the barrel, avoiding any holes, the feed ramp, etc.) but a much lighter coating. After I went back to clean the gun the second time I noticed a lot of debris for a relatively small amount of rounds fired. I know oil attracts debris like a magnet so I decided to follow hickok45's video. Overall he seems to advocate a much more dry cleaning method rather than using solvents, oils, or any types of liquid (except alcohol which is only applicable when the gun is very dirty) particularly with respect to the slide. I've also watched a few other videos where people would douse the entire slide in liquids that come in a can like rem oil as a first step and wipe it down completely. I winced watching those because I knew they had to have been getting some in the action although I don't know if they were using oil and I don't know if other cleaning products will attract debris as well.

    So basically my question is; what is the best way to remove all the carbon from the slide? I liked hickok's method because it left very little oil on the gun and generally a dry slide save for the grooves. Getting the debris off isn't much of a problem and I recognize that oil will cause more to accumulate. However without using any kind of liquid during cleaning it took me quite a while to remove the carbon and even now if I were to take a q-tip and run it aggressively against any part of the slide I'm sure the cotton would have a lot more carbon residue on it than it looked like he was getting in his video. As of right now I probably still have some carbon on the slide but it looks clean and, more importantly I think, it isn't covered in oil so it won't attract large amounts of debris in the future. Is it necessary to get all the carbon off the slide or is that a battle I can't win?

    Also I realize I could combine what I like from both methods but using rem oil to clean the entire slide doesn't seem to make sense if you're trying to avoid getting any in the action. I'd stick to hickok's method if I knew that having carbon in the slide didn't really matter if it wasn't in excess but I always figured when cleaning I should remove everything.

    Sorry for a bit of a long-winded post, I just wanted to cover everything. I'd appreciate any advice/help with this. Thanks.
  2. Glock+2


    Mar 16, 2009
    get a good gun cleaner/solvent, clean carbon/dirt/debri......oil as decribed in the manual, 5 'drops' will lube the entire gun as directed.

  3. GaleForce


    Dec 11, 2010
    South FL
    According to most sources solvent really isn't necessary unless the gun is really dirty though which is why I've avoided using it. I guess it would clean the carbon up but should I wipe the entire slide down with it? Is it alright to get solvent in the small holes?

    As far as lubing goes I lubed it by putting a drop at the back of each of the grooves in the slide and letting that drip all the way to the front by standing the slide vertically. Then I took a q-tip and applied some oil to that and lubed the hole in the slide where the barrel passes through and the space between the two "pegs" on the barrel (I don't know the technical term for this area, but behind the feed ramp on the actual barrel). Finally I used a q-tip to apply a small amount of oil to each of the 4 metal rails on the frame and put a tiny drop at the back where the manual says you can add some.
  4. Benaiah


    Nov 21, 2010
    I've got a new G19 that I cleaned for the first time Sunday. I had put 150 rounds through it and was surprised at how clean it still was. When I first got it, I wiped off all the factory lube and applied CorrosionX per the manual's instructions and also ran a swab of it down the bore. After a week I wiped off the CorrosionX with a paper towel dipped in alcohol and applied Mobil 1 gear oil. That stuff was slick but stunk real bad, so I wiped that off and applied Mobil 1 10W40. The Mobil 1 10W40 didn't smell bad and felt slicker than the CorrosionX.

    After shooting 150 rounds, I cleaned it with a combo of iso alcohol and CorrosionX. CorrosionX for the bore and alcohol on cotton swabs and a tooth brush everywhere else. I was happy with the results. I have decided to not have a perfectionist cleaning standard for the G19 and am leaning towards a cleaning method similar to Hickok45's.
  5. GaleForce


    Dec 11, 2010
    South FL
    That's why I like about Hickok's technique. I guess I should have made that more clear. I know as long as you take care of the gun and clean it adequately it will perform. Personally I don't think I need to clean it to the point where it is sterile (metaphorically) but I was just concerned because when he ran cotton over areas of his gun, once it was clean, it picked up less carbon than I did (although he picked up a bit indicating he isn't concerned with getting rid of all of it) and I can't figure out how he managed to get it that much cleaner using his whole dry method of cleaning it.

    I know some people say I should follow the manual religiously but every non-manual source I've consulted never said anything about having to use CorrosionX (although I guess that's not a bad idea) and I have never heard of using motor oil before. As far as the CorrisionX goes; can you fire the gun while it is setting for that week or do you have to leave it alone? Also I've heard of people using CorrosionX for everything as far as cleaning/oiling, which you can do with rem oil, but I prefer using the rem oil to clean (the bore specifically) and a higher viscosity oil for the actual lubrication. I've cleaned guns in the past, this is just my first glock, so I'm not entirely sure what the best way to go about everything is.
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2010
  6. Benaiah


    Nov 21, 2010
    In my experience CorossionX is great at preventing corrosion, but that not an issue with Glocks and not why I used it. I am experimenting with it primarily as a bore cleaner/lube and have yet to form an opinion. In general I'm trying chemicals that don't have a strong odor and aren't too toxic.

    As you've seen with Hickok45's videos, Glocks are a low maintenance guns. They seem to function perfectly with minimal cleaning and lube. That's one of the reasons I like Glocks so much. If you want to neglect some, it will still function and if you want to fuss over it, it will still function.

    If I remember correctly in Hickok45's Glock cleaning video he mentions that the gun has already been cleaned.
  7. GaleForce


    Dec 11, 2010
    South FL
    Yeah the gun had already been cleaned in the video but I don't think he would leave out a step of his technique just because the gun was cleaned already. He seemed to do everything, including oiling the gun again, and he stated multiple times that he likes the absolute minimum amount of oil. I guess I can always clean the gun again and continue to experiment with other methods. I have Hoppe's #9 solvent already that I use to clean a rifle. I'm mainly concerned about getting any type of liquid into the action though. Does anyone know the answer on this one? Is it just oil to avoid getting into the holes or should I avoid all liquids? I know rubbing alcohol, since it is almost pure alcohol, evaporates very quickly. Anything that lingers would attract debris but I really don't know how quickly various cleaning products would evaporate or dry up once inside. I could probably use alcohol on the slide (as hickok mentions but doesn't really demonstrate in detail) and not worry about it lingering though. I think I'll give that a try tomorrow and see how it fares against the carbon. I'm still weary of using solvent on the entire slide because I don't know if that is alright to get a bit into the holes and I've heard a lot of mixed things about using solvents with Glocks (nothing overtly negative like it damages the finish or something, but a lot of people have told me that it is overkill).
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2010


    Sep 18, 2010
    I think honestly that your putting way too much thinking and logic into the cleaning. I use an aerosol CLP to clean and I spray it in the barrel, slide, and unlike Hickok Ill even spray it in the frame. But as long as you wipe everything down real good before reassembling you will be fine, and when your doing the slide keep it pointed with the muzzle down so whatever your cleaning with doesnt get in the firing pin and such. Keep playing around with your pistol, your not gonna break anything it is a glock after all!
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2010
  9. Burien


    Aug 19, 2009
    Use Ezzox lube, it dries slick and will not attract carbon, and whatever carbon is left wipes off with a clean / dry rag.
  10. Boxerglocker

    Boxerglocker Jacks #1 Fan

    Mar 6, 2003
    Lynnwood, WA
    The key regardless of what solvent you use... is to use it sparingly.
    I prefer hoppes #9 and then a final wipe with a brake cleaner dampened rag... , change your rags out frequently. I like brushing the breach/action area and rails with a old toothbrush followed by a wipe down. I lube with CLP even more sparingly than the manual states, on drop share between the 4 rails applied with my finger, another to coat the barrel and inside the slide where the hood rides, half a drop at the connector/trigger bar interface.
  11. GaleForce


    Dec 11, 2010
    South FL
    Well there are certainly a lot of opinions/choices as to what to use. At the moment I have the following;

    • Hoppe's 9 Solvent
    • Hoppe's 9 Lubricating Oil (this is what I use to lube my Glock and it works fine for me)
    • Rem Oil (I use this to clean the bore and some areas on the slide, but I'm concerned about it getting into the holes in the slide)
    • Cotton Patches in various sizes (bought to wipe down primarily)
    • Bore Snake
    • Q-Tips
    • Rubbing Alcohol
    • Cleaning Brush (while I don't believe I have the right size patches to use in conjunction with this the bore snake works great)
    • Lots of shop rags
    I think with this assortment of tools and cleaning supplies I can clean my Glock effectively. I've seen a lot of interesting suggestions here, though. I don't want to buy a bunch of new stuff though since it seems unnecessary.

    I'm curious about the brake cleaner. Is this a brand or is it another automotive product?

    Also I'm a bit confused about the oil for the trigger. The manual doesn't show precisely where to put that drop so I've just been putting it near that small spring in the back of the frame. Where exactly should the drop go?

    Thanks again guys.
  12. Glock 17L

    Glock 17L *GLOCKAHOLIC*

    Jan 19, 2004
    Louisville Kentucky
    Brake Cleaner is what is used in the automotive field to clean backing plates, calipers & brake pads/shoes, It can be purchased at autozone or any auto parts place & is at least half the price of gunscrubber, some painted & plastic parts can be ruined by brake cleaner..
    It comes in an spray can, I only use it on the slide & barrel..
    I use simple green & warm water on the stripped frame with a tooth brush..

    Butch shows a couple pics of his cut away Glock in the first page of this thread showing were to put the drop of oil..
    Thanks for the Great Pictures BUTCH and trigger bar lube
  13. Flashbang1063


    Nov 30, 2010
    I like Slip 2000 products, especially the cleaner which dries and leaves no residue. I have been using it on my AR's and now my Glocks. And since it doesn't have any strong chemical smells I can clean my firearms in the livingroom without the girlfriend complaining :cool:

    From their website........

    Features & Benefits

    •Water based avoids environmental and health safety issues
    •Non-Caustic helps eliminate caustic burns and fumes
    •Non-petroleum helps eliminates fire hazard and disposal problems

    Product Characteristics
    725 CLEANER / DEGREASER is a biodegradable, non-solvent solution non-flammable water based product. This product contains quality surfactants, wetting agents, emulsifiers, cleaners and rust inhibitors. Rinses freely and is compatible with most oil water separators.
  14. JBP55


    Mar 4, 2007
    With what you have listed I would clean the barrel with the Hoppe's #9 and lubricate with the Hoppe's lubricating oil and drop the Rem Oil.
  15. happyguy

    happyguy Man, I'm Pretty

    Double post.

    Happyguy :)
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2010
  16. happyguy

    happyguy Man, I'm Pretty

    Glocks will run dry better than just about any other gun out there. About the only thing that I have seen make them stumble is when they are over lubricated and the temps get below zero. Seems the grease some people like to put on the slide rails can thicken up to the point that it can cause short cycling.

    Grease should be used sparingly, especially if temps are low.

    I clean my guns with Hoppes #9 and then lubricate them with a synthetic oil as shown in the Glock instruction manual... EXCEPT... I put a little synthetic Teflon grease on the rails, cycle the slide a few times, and then wipe off any excess.

    When I'm done you normally can't see any grease or oil on the gun at all, but it is there.

    I might add a little additional lubricant prior to a range trip, just because, but for day to day carry my gun is pretty dry.

    Happyguy :)
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2010
  17. voyager4520

    voyager4520 -----

    Apr 25, 2009
    SE Colorado
    To get all the carbon off the slide, at least the areas accessible from field strip, I use q-tips lightly soaked in Hoppe's Elite Cleaner. Then I use dry q-tips to wipe up all the excess. I also lightly spray a patch with the same cleaner, wrap it around the small end of a Hoppe's nylon Utility Brush, and brush under the extractor claw. Then I use a dry patch wrapped around the small end of the brush to clean up the excess. I do the same process with the large end of the brush to the breech face with the muzzle of the slide pointed to the ground, then wipe dry.

    Then I lightly oil a patch with Ballistol oil(whatever your choice of oil will work fine) and rub over all areas that I can to give them corrosion protection. Then I rub the same areas with a clean dry patch to pick up all of the excess oil until the surfaces look pretty much dry. BUT, DO NOT get oil into the firing pin channel or other internals of the slide, on the breech face, or around the extractor.

    I use Hoppe's Elite Cleaner on everything but the bore of the barrel. I even use it on polymer. I still use Hoppe's #9 bore solvent for the bore of the barrel.

    You can use the small end of the Hoppe's nylon Utility Brush to get into the rails of the slide. I used to do that, but I found that wrapping a patch around an old credit card or id card works much better. I personally use an old id card, which is much softer and more flexible than a credit card.
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2010
  18. whatsupglock


    Nov 20, 2009
    I've shot thouuuuuuuuuuuuuuuusands of rounds through my Glocks. Never had any trouble cleaning them with anything more than a cotton rag, patches, a tooth brush, some Q-Tips, a bore brush, and Hoppe's 9 gun oil.

    Just wipe the outside of the gun down with a rag, no oil. Take the slide off and scrub the breach face and safety plunger with a tooth brush. Wipe the outside of the barrel off with the rag. Scrub the feed ramp on the barrel with the tooth brush. Look at the frame on the inside. If there's any goop from burnt powder brush it out with the tooth brush. Put a little oil on some cleaning patches and run them through the barrel. Then run dry patches through until they come out the end of the barrel clean and dry. That's it. Shiny as new. Oil per Glock owner's manual. Glocks definitely like to run a the dry side. Don't over lube.

    If there is some really crusty stuff on the breach face of the barrel, I'll scrape it off carefully with the small screw driver. The stuff flakes right off. Then hit it with your tooth brush.
  19. DWARREN123

    DWARREN123 Grumpy Old Guy Silver Member

    Jan 25, 2008
    Clarksville, Tn.
    Glocks are one of the easy firearms to clean. Keep the bore clean and lube per the manual and thats it. Go as much into it as suites you but it does not have to be involved or hard.
  20. redbaron007

    redbaron007 Some Dude Lifetime Member

    Jan 26, 2009
    CLP (or something similar) works perfect! I then place a very small drop of Mobil One Syn 20w-50 in a couple more. I field strip, clean/oil it about 500 rounds. Don't make it harder than it needs to be. :supergrin: