Glock 20 Question in Connector

Discussion in 'The 10 Ring' started by johncalloway, Sep 30, 2012.

  1. I have a glock 20 I just bought used. I tried to put a new 3.5 connector that I have had in several of my other glocks so I know it's not the connector. I put it in, and wouldn't fire so I thought. I took apart and put it back in several times, and it wouldn't fire, which led me to taking my glock back apart the long way several times. Last time I took it apart and reinstalled it, and put it together still wouldn't fire. Frustrated, I shook it in my hand and click. Thats right, shaking it made it fire. So what is the deal? What does that mean? Thanks in Advance.

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  3. You say it was bought used.....did you test-fire it before doing ANYTHING else ?

    uncle albert

  4. TattooedGlock

    TattooedGlock NRA LIFE MEMBER

    It means you didn't need the 3.5 connector and that it would have shot fine if you'd have let it be; or it's broke. :) Ok, really though, it sounds like one of the spring ends wasn't seated right and shaking it put it in place.
  5. its fine with the stock connector. It's not broke. Something is just not right on thie connector for this Glock. It's not a out of place problem. When I put stock connector in it is fine. maybe they have changed something else in it and its to light for the new connector. Like I said I know this connector is fine. It has been in 3 other glocks, but not this one.
  6. Ok update!!

    I just put it in my buddy's Glock 21, and it works fine. So that covers my theory about it be doing something in a large frame

    Next theory is, something has been changed out in mine, which may make it not work. I'm thinking a spring. Anyone know which spring it may be?
  7. See if his trigger bar works in your gun with that connector, not much else left.
  8. arushus

    arushus Biggest Member

    Sounds like the trigger bar isnt being forced down far enough to release the striker. Is there some sort of over-travel device installed?
  9. No there's no over travel in there. It's almost like its to light for it because shaking it makes it fire. Could someone have changed it to a ny spring that makes it to light.
  10. I should add shaking it while holding the trigger makes it fire. By the way this is unloaded at the kitchen table. Don't want everyone thinking I'm at the range shaking this thing wildly around.
  11. He's already gone. I should have swapped out the whole assembly and tried it. Didn't even think of that.
  12. Just on a wild ***** guess, check your STRIKER spring......

    I've had problems with using a Wolff light weight striker spring, misfires, not fire, too light to fire, etc.
    The lg. frame guns don't like them. Work great in the small guns.
    Not positive, but worth checking.

    uncle albert
  13. Arc Angel

    Arc Angel Deus Vult!

    Internet gunsmithing is never easy. Are you 100% positive that you haven't got some sort of trigger stop installed in that pistol? (Look behind the left-hand side, 'drop safety wing'. Do you see a little set screw?)

    Here's what's happening: There is a downward angle towards the rear of the slide on a 4.5# (nominal 3.5#) connector. The trigger bar is proceeding to this point and, then, getting hung up (for whatever reason) on the extreme downward slope of the connector bar. It's just hanging there until you shake the pistol; and, voila, the trigger bar's, 'bird's head' suddenly slips off the connector, and the FP lug snaps forward firing the pistol.

    Something, I have no idea what, is impeding the movement of the trigger bar. You don't have a connector problem; what you have is a trigger bar and, possibly, a trigger housing problem. Me? I'd change the trigger housing unit, first. If that didn't work, then I'd change the trigger bar, too.

    Here's that angle I'm talking about:

    #12 Arc Angel, Oct 1, 2012
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2012
  14. arushus

    arushus Biggest Member

    This is exactly what I was thinking, just didnt feel like typing all that out on a blackberry playbook...
    Sounds like there is an issue with the trigger bar not going far enough to the rear and far enough down to release the striker. Could be the trigger bar or the trigger housing like angel said.
  15. I just got home from work. I took the slide off hoping to see a set screw. Nope, nada. What would have happened to the trigger bar or housing?
  16. Might be a good time to install a lone wolf over travel housing. I was going to just get a rocket, but since I got to change it anyway ill
    Just go that route.
  17. Arc Angel

    Arc Angel Deus Vult!

    Great minds think alike! ;)

    Yes, it's fairly obvious that something is impeding trigger bar travel. The question is, 'What'?

    John, without actually holding your Glock in my hands I'm unable to tell what's going on. You could have any of the following: (or, maybe, even something I'm unfamiliar with)


    There could be something stuck behind either one of the drop safety, 'wings'. The trigger housing slots could be gouged. I'm wondering whether or not your FP safety is functioning properly, too. I'm even curious to know if your trigger bar is, somehow, torqued? Is there a burr on the, 'bird's head'?

    Like I said, 'Internet gunsmithing can be tough!' About the only thing I do not doubt is that your trigger bar is hanging up on the, 'negative slope' of that 4.5# connector. It's NOT dropping enough to fully release the striker lug. So, you're going to have to tell me what mechanical idiosyncrasy is impeding the bar's continued rearward travel and subsequent fall? :dunno:

    ADDED: Answer me this! What is the number on your trigger bar's cruciform?
  18. Ok. New update. I went to my LGS. He's a glock armored. I figured I would buy a new connector and if there was a problem, he would figure it out. He had a ghost. One that has been giving me trouble was a zevtech. He brought it back installed, and worked like a dream. I told him my problem. He said because of glocks tolerances. I guess he means loose, some connectors have problems.
  19. Nit pickin': the bar with the minus sign is the factory Glock 4.5 lb.
    If the 3.5 has a minus sign on it, then they've both got that minus sign.
    ('Least that's what I've been readin'.)
  20. dm1906

    dm1906 Retired SO

    I have 2 original Glock connectors in front of me now (from my Gen 3 G20, and Gen 2 G22). They are exactly as the middle one in the pic. No - marking. Both have slight wear marks (similar to a -) near the same area, but it's not an intentional mark/stamp, just a wear mark on the finish.
  21. 3.5 was renamed 4.5 and is identified by "-". No marking on stock 5.5. 8lb has "+". There is also a "." 5 lb for the newer gen4, to reduce the heavy pull on the redesigned trigger bar.

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