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Glock 20 & 29 Abusing Brass Fixes?

Discussion in '10mm Reloading Forum' started by headblade, Oct 3, 2010.

  1. headblade

    headblade TriggerHappy

    Jun 18, 2010
    Southern Utah
    Hey guys. I've noticed both my Glock 29 and Glock 20 beat the crap out of my brass. And I've read a few articles where other Glock owners are having similar problems. The cuts we find in the ejector groove can shorten the life of the brass dramatically if the raised surfaces won't allow you to slide the brass into your shellholder of your press or auto primer tool. For me I can only use my brass 4 or 5 times before it will no longer fit in my Lee Auto Primer. Also, there is the issue that with all those cuts in the groove and will it decrease reliability in feeding?
    Has anybody figured out a way to resolve this? I've heard of people possibly filing down sharp edges on the ejector or increasing the stiffness of the recoil spring. I personally have tried a 22# spring in my Glock 20 and havn't seen any difference vs. my 17# stock? spring. I don't know. If anybody has any ideas let's hear them!
  2. Kegs

    Kegs Ol 8 fingers ;)

    Oct 26, 2009
    Cold side of conus
    I suspect your thread hasn't gotten any replies because nobody has any answers. I considered replying earlier to this one, but I don't have any answers for you either.

    I have tried 17-23# springs in my G29 and on hot loads the brass gets dinged up pretty good pretty much fitting your same description.

    Other than tumbling them for a while, which might smooth up some of the dings, not really sure what can be done.

    I don't expect that spent brass from full loads to last much longer than what you have suggested - some guys only getting around 3 uses out of them total.

    Still, it's cheaper and more interesting than purchasing store bought ammo.

  3. _The_Shadow

    _The_Shadow Ret. Fireman

    Jul 23, 2007
    Southeast, LoUiSiAna
    There have been some people that had some issues of the Extractor nicking up the extractor rims with some of there Glocks. Some have hade the case mouths damaged too...

    I have a Glock 29 with the Wolff guide rod & 21# spring system and I don't see much of anything that I would consider normal from mine or the 10xx series Smith & Wessons. I have gotten 10+ loadings & reliable firings from some of my brass. Much of this is used to test upper end loadings too!

    You may wish the check the extractor for burrs or being bent inward as that can pinch the inner surface of the extractor rim. Checking the ejector for any damage as this might kick the casing off the extractor too early or too late. If you are not seeing stove pipe jams the timing maybe OK!

    Take a look at the breech face of the slide it should be smooth, if rough it may need to be polished some, being careful not to plug up the striker hole with debris.

    Be advised that some brass is softer, some rims are slightly thicker...I have found some (brand new) that were so thick they would not fit the shell holder.

    I have found range pick ups that I was able to salvage with the use of a tringle file to de-burr the inner edges.

    Good luck!
  4. gator378

    gator378 Gator378

    Jan 22, 2001
    St. Peters, Mo, USA
    I was having trouble with used 10mm brass that bounced around on the concrete for a while banging up the rim etc. For 10mm only I switched from the Lee Auto Prime to the RCBS priming tool. The RCBS priming tool shell holder works fine on 10mm fired brass. Apparently the Lee shell holders have a little tighter tolerances. This is strange since the Redding shell holder on the press works fine with concrete bounced 10 mm brass. I usually lose my brass to the range gremlins before I wear it out.
  5. gator378

    gator378 Gator378

    Jan 22, 2001
    St. Peters, Mo, USA
    I think semi autos tend to beat up brass because they designed for very positive extraction. My 44 629 does not beat up brass it stays in the cylinder and is "gently" extracted. My FAL on the other beats the hell out of the brass, but never had a failure to extract. I believe it is the nature of the beast for semi - autos
  6. headblade

    headblade TriggerHappy

    Jun 18, 2010
    Southern Utah
    Does anybody have suggestions on different types of brass that might be harder and possibly not burr and dent up so easily? I currently am using Starline Brass.
    I wonder if NICKEL would resist burring and dentage!? hrm.
  7. MakeMineA10mm

    MakeMineA10mm * * * * Millennium Member Lifetime Member

    Feb 13, 1999
    Central Illinois
    Nickle brass is still brass, just with a really thin layer of nickle on top. It was invented to stop verdegris from forming on the brass when it was in leather belt loops, so it is a corrosion inhibitor only, won't resist deforming at all.

    As a Glock armorer, I can tell you that the extractor is the weakest part of the Glock design. Other than spring cups, spacer sleeves, and recoil & magazine springs, it's the part I replace the most. Therefore I sure would be hesitant to weaken it more by filing on it... I think I'd only do so after lightening up on the loads significantly and still having issues with chewed up rims.

    Other than heavier springs, the other thing you can do to soften the energy in the action's cycle is to add weight to the slide.
  8. nickE10mm

    nickE10mm F.S.F.O.S.

    Apr 13, 2004
    Wichita, KS
    ... I also get a few chewed up case rims when shooting warm - hot 10mm's from my Razorback, however, I never have feeding problems. Its more cosmetic, from what I've found. Its not hurting brass integrity.

    I'm looking forward to my Fusion longslide which will add weight to the slide and a better, squared firing pin stop. Maybe I can eliminate the rim marks with a pistol DESIGNED for heavy loads. :)