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GILS (Glock internal laser system) prototype needs a new home.

Discussion in 'Sights, Optics and Lasers' started by Gunhaver, Dec 4, 2012.

  1. Gunhaver

    Gunhaver the wrong hands

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    I started tinkering with this idea years ago and just found this stuff in a box so I thought I'd take some photos and ask what ya'll think. It's a crude prototype just meant to relay an idea. I'm just putting it out there in an open source sort of way so anyone that wants to run with it go ahead. Let me know if you have any questions. It's a lot further along in my head than it is in reality.

    If you're really serious about developing it into something I can buy someday I'll even send you all my prototype junk.

    We start with an epoxy battery holder that I molded from the grip cavity. Space enough for up to 3 2032 coin cells (G23 grip) in parallel for 3VDC. This needs a micro USB plug to transfer power up through the hole at the top of the cavity into the bottom of the trigger block.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    A micro lever arm switch is epoxied into a cutout in the trigger block. In this location the side of the cruciform that's attached to the trigger bar holds the lever in the forward position. The switch is spring loaded to snap closed when the pressure from the striker hook is relieved by pulling the trigger less than 1mm.

    [​IMG]

    Wires are connected to the common and N/C terminals of the switch and routed through channels cut into the block. They should run 1 each to the bottom of the block under the pin and the part of the block that sticks up into the rear cover plate.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Probably the trickiest part of the whole system to envision. Making this part isn't easy without plastic molding equipment so I never made it. It's a pair of gold plated spring loaded contacts that transfer power from the trigger block up into the rear slide cover plate. I drew them on the cover plate rather crudely to show the general idea. The contacts would provide a circuit pathway whenever the slide was fully forward.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2012
  2. Gunhaver

    Gunhaver the wrong hands

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    Now that power is at the rear cover plate a piece of G10 shows how the enlarged rear slide cover plate becomes the new rear sight surface and transfers power to the new rear sight block. Small low power LEDs could replace tritium in the rear sight since power is already there. A light sensor in the opposite side of the sight block could control brightness.

    [​IMG]



    A new aluminum rear sight block replaces the stock sight and has a hole for a laser module. The leads from the laser run out the back of the block and to more GP contacts that connect it to the slide cover plate.

    [​IMG]

    A titanium sight block I never cut a slot in.

    [​IMG]



    My Dawson sights come back flush with the rear of the slide. Rather than the bulky G10 cover plate I made I'd prefer something more sleek like this with the cover plate extending up just far enough to contact the rear sight. If the power contacts are long enough one would still be able to make windage adjustments in the dovetail.

    [​IMG]



    Inside the rear sight block is a small 4mm dia. laser module. 5mw and 3V and just as bright as any other laser sight I've seen. This one was purchased over 5 years ago. They are probably even smaller now, or maybe even green.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This laser would easily fit into the Dawson sight block with room for adjustment. The aluminum block was just made bulky to give me room to carve it down. I bought 3 of these lasers for $12 each and beat the hell out of one just to see how tough it was. It would not die until I smashed it with a hammer. There really isn't enough mass inside this thing for it to damage itself under recoil.
     

  3. Gunhaver

    Gunhaver the wrong hands

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    For those that don't like the idea of pulling the trigger even 1mm to activate the laser there could also be a lanyard hole switch for grip activation or this could act as a sort of grip safety for the trigger switch. It could also activate the rear dot LEDs or a bright white LED in the other side of the sight block. I have a keychain with a 5mm white LED that will light up a room on one 2032 cell. It's no Surefire rail light but more than enough for a nightstand gun and would really light up the front sight.

    This is a tactile switch that makes when it's pressed in or pushed off center. Would be easy to activate with a normal grip if it were sticking out of the lanyard hole.



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    If you want to keep your tritium or adjustable sights then the laser could go in a wraparound extension of the rear slide cover plate.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The furthest I've gotten with it is having a 3V battery and the laser connected to the switch inside the gun just to test the switch.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2012
  4. Gunhaver

    Gunhaver the wrong hands

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    The switch in full forward position and the laser (held by my pinky) is off.

    [​IMG]

    And pulling the trigger very slightly releases the trigger bar from the switch and the laser activates.

    [​IMG]


    What I like most about this idea is the number of laser related problems it would solve. Unlike a guide rod laser it moves the emitter back away from the muzzle flash where it can get clouded and it's adjustable. Unlike a grip laser it doesn't increase the size of the grip at all and makes use of already dead space inside the gun for batteries. Unlike all lasers it bolts the emitter block right to the slide where accuracy is only a matter of slide to barrel lockup instead of adding the slide to frame play to throw off accuracy.

    There's also room for some pretty cool tweaks. The bright LED for a backup gun light is a big possibility. A pressure switch in the slide cover plate that the ejector spring bearing presses on could change the color of one of the rear LED sight dots to act as a loaded chamber indicator.

    And the coolest mod is made possible by tiny magnetic reed switches. http://www.mouser.com/images/microsites/Murata-AMR.png

    These could be put into the battery holder and trigger block. A very tiny neodymium magnet in the magazine follower would move up this row of switches and activate each one as the magazine is emptied making for a perfect setup for a plasma rifle style round counter to be displayed on a tiny LED readout on the rear slide cover.

    I'd pay at least the price of a Glock to have all that in one of my Glocks.

    Anyway, that's my Glock laser brain fart from years ago. Let me know what you think.
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2012
  5. Gunhaver

    Gunhaver the wrong hands

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    Wow. 266 views and not a single comment. I found the one thing that nobody on GT has an opinion on.

    :crying:
     
  6. INEEDMILK

    INEEDMILK

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    Well I'm impressed.
     
  7. bigmac85

    bigmac85

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    Ditto, you should call this "project robocop glock"
     
  8. G23Gen4TX

    G23Gen4TX

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    It's not a bad idea but I think you will find that production is not easy.

    The switch in the blackstrap is probably a better idea than the switch on the trigger. Safer for sure.
     
  9. BroncoAZ

    BroncoAZ Glockalfeliac

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    Last edited: Dec 6, 2012
  10. JimBianchi

    JimBianchi Da Da CLM

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    The video on that web site is impressive. I really just want to ask the guy to stop using a gun for hammer, I get the point, it's tough. Watching it makes me cringe.....
     
  11. Gunhaver

    Gunhaver the wrong hands

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    Yes. I actually started working on this several years ago before that came out. I started with the wraparound extension of the cover plate as the primary location for the laser and later figured it would be better in the rear sight along with additional LEDs for the rear sight dots and a forward light in the left side of the sight block.

    When I first saw that laserlyte sight I was a bit miffed that somebody else had the same idea and was actually selling them. Then I realized that the thing is huge and has the batteries and switch in the sight itself. Still think my way is better so I put this up in hopes that someone would steal the idea and run with it.
     
  12. Gunhaver

    Gunhaver the wrong hands

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    Production won't happen with me. That's up to somebody else if they want to. It would require molding the battery holder, a new trigger block and rear cover plate with all the contacts and conductors inside them. And a nice machined sight block if you want that option. A simple solid setup lust for the laser wouldn't be too difficult. The works with the round counter could get pricey.

    The trigger switch never really struck me as dangerous. When I had it all wired up and the laser taped to the slide I was practice drawing and the laser comes on just as you'd start pulling the trigger anyway. Aim with the sights, verify POI with the laser as you pull the trigger. I'd rather have that and save a split second than look for the takedown latch or a switch on a rail laser. But I like the option of the lanyard hole switch for the nervous types as well as a means to activate rear sight LEDs.
     
  13. Lord

    Lord Senior Member

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    for an activation switch, I would use the small two metallic dots that close the circuit when you touch them. put them in a position possibly on the trigger so when you have your finger there, the laser lights.

    Then you'd have a L.O.C. on your Glock

    (laser on contact) or call it a Glock LOC
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2012
  14. Gunhaver

    Gunhaver the wrong hands

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    Another switching method I considered is a trigger block pin that's slightly longer and has metallic ends so they stick out a bit on both sides. When you grip the pistol your hand would be touching both sides of the pin and activate the laser. It would be much easier to connect to the circuitry in the trigger block since it runs right through it. Wouldn't work with gloves but would be fine for most carry situations. I was trying to keep modifications limited to easily replaceable parts so people could install it themselves.

    I haven't even looked into gen 4 Glocks with the replaceable backstraps. That may allow for a simple aftermarket backstrap panel with the button just molded in wherever would work best on it. There are a lot of different ways to do this for sure.