Getting into reloading

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by Glock 1, Jan 30, 2013.


  1. Those of us with an even shorter attention span leave the powder measure on the toolhead. So, a multiplicity of powder measures.

    The overspending can be expanded to include the powder check die if cost really isn't an issue.

    Then, of course, we don't use just the standard powder measure adjustment screw, we add the UniqueTek micrometer adjuster.

    I draw the line at the powder measure alarm. I only have one of those.

    This reloading thing can get kind of pricey with a little imagination.

    Richard
     

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  2. Don't buy three powder measures. That can wait and there are other cheaper options.
     

  3. lol. I got the powder check die but I won't use it in the beginning. I was wondering about the powder measure. I think once I am comfortable with this machine and its workings I might move to make things a little easier with the multiple powder measure but I want to get used to this before I get more advanced. As it is I will be going very slow in the beginning to brush up on my knowledge and prevent mistakes. I am still doing alot of reading and will stick to safe loads until I have gotten back into the swing of things.
     
  4. That is a good plan. Don't use the case feeder at the start. Instead manual drop one case every 5 pulls of the handle. After your sure its perfect reset the OAL with a full shell plate.
    Instead of multiple powder measures you can get a a micrometer, a dial or multiple powder bars.
     
  5. Loading just one case at a time in the drop tube is an easy way to concentrate on just one thing at a time.

    However, this approach will also have a bunch of new but unused primers skiing down the ramp. It would pay to have a better scheme for catching them. Maybe build up the side walls with cardboard. This is easier to see when you have the press in front of you.

    The thing about the 650 is that it presents a primer on every handle pull. If the primer isn't seated into a case, it rotates to the drop chute on the next handle pull.

    Richard
     
    #65 F106 Fan, Feb 13, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2013
  6. IndyGunFreak

    IndyGunFreak KO Windows

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    Just remove the part that indexes the primer disk (I think it's called the primer cam). Takes 3sec to put on/remove. In order to index the primer disk without the cam, just index it with your thumb. When you're ready to go full throttle, just put the cam back on.

    IGF
     
  7. That is my plan. Kill the automated stuff and load individual rounds into batches of 25 (labeled of course) to take to the range to see what works best in my guns. Keep targets and track performance of the individual loads.

    My dad loaded some lead cast SWC with a powder (he said it was Bullseye) that was so smokey and nasty smelling I was getting FTF after only 50 rounds in a clean G21SF and the smoke was unbelievable! The inside of the gun was black with soot. I have never had that happen with Bullseye. Add to that we were ar an indoor range with bad ventilation and lots of shooters and it was not a very fun experience. Not to mention the looks I got from other shooters. He hated the rounds so much he took them all apart and reloaded them. He had a thousand of them. I would like to avoid that.
     
    #67 Glock 1, Feb 13, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2013
  8. For the 650, the magic number is 6.

    It takes six manual steps of the primer mechanism to get a primer in the proper place for the first case coming down the drop tube.

    You will see a little metallic lever that is part of the ratchet system. Cycle it 6 times to set up the first primer. Then load cases in the drop tube (manually or with the case feeder).

    Richard
     
  9. Here's a fellow who made a special little washer that holds the mechanism in a released state so the ratchet doesn't work.

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0HmQOTitro"]Dillon 650 Primer Feed Disable - YouTube[/ame]

    Another thing: You can use a .38 SPL case to hold the case feeder mechanism in a disabled position.

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsB8OMOU6O0"]Dillon 650 Case Feed Mechanism Disable - YouTube[/ame]

    Richard
     
  10. Can't wait to get it and get it setup. Its ashamed I just started my wait. lol
     
  11. IndyGunFreak

    IndyGunFreak KO Windows

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    By the way, for another manual.. I love the "Loadbooks". They are typically dedicated to 1 caliber, and have data compiled from numerous sources, and have a wide variety of powders, bullet profiles, etc. They run about $7 each on Midway(but of course they are out of stock at the moment). I have one for all the calibers I load and like them.

    http://www.loadbooks.com/untitled.html

    I typically use my Lyman and a Loadbook to check my data. You can also see this site, which is again a compilation of data from powder companies (use caution though, as this site can also allow users to post data... but it's clear when data is listed on a powder manufacturers website and what is user submitted.)

    http://handloads.org/loaddata/default.asp
     
    #71 IndyGunFreak, Feb 13, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2013
  12. Easist way to disable the casefeeder is simply to drill a small hole in the tube, stick a paperclip through it. Viola. No more cases will fall. You will have about two cases left. Manually cycle the case shuttle if you like. Drill the hole at the right level for the cases you use the most.
     
  13. It's going to be worth it! The 650 is a magnificent press. It's easy to set up, caliber changes are straightforward and it's FAST.

    Richard
     
  14. IndyGunFreak

    IndyGunFreak KO Windows

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    Totally agree.. If ever I've had regrets in the past about a $1500 purchase... the 650 is definitely not it.
     
  15. I loved my 550 for the longest time. The 650 is a step up from that. I need to stop looking at 1050's. They are even nicer. But for me, I can't use a bullet feeder because I shoot lead and my lead bullets are not "clean enough" from the lubing machine to ever expect them to work with a bullet feeder. So with out a bullet feeder I am personally convinced that a 1050 is no faster then a 650. For the life of me I can never seat the bullet before I am done pushing to prime. I am always done pushing to prime and I am still seating the bullet. I know the 1050 is nicer but it just wasn't worth the extra $600. 650 is darn near the perfect press.
     
  16. Glad to hear all the good reviews. I called Dillon and added the tool heads and powder dies to the order. I amended my list above as well.
     
  17. IndyGunFreak

    IndyGunFreak KO Windows

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    You should've ordered from BrianEnos.com... you'd have gotten free shipping. Thought that was mentioned earlier in the thread.

    Prices are exactly the same... just free shipping on orders over $400
     
    #77 IndyGunFreak, Feb 13, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2013
  18. Did I miss something? Why do you need to do anything to the 650 case feeder to disble it, just turn it off?:dunno:
    Extra powder measures, I just don't see the point for pistol loading. I do have an extra measure for rifle, because it needs a larger charge bar, but you have to check the powder charge anyway, so having one measure is no big deal for me.
     
    #78 fredj338, Feb 13, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2013
  19. That still leaves a bunch of cases in the feed tube. If the goal is to clear the press, using the .38 case is a nice way to go. No messing around with the feed tube.

    Perhaps it seems important to feed one case at a time for a few minutes without having to empty out the tube.

    Richard
     
  20. I was going to but being an FFL and having a business has its advantages as well. :supergrin:
     

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