Gen3 model 33

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by rl356, Jan 16, 2013.

  1. Got a good deal through FTF sale on a generation 3 model 33. Came with a lone wolf .40S&W barrel along with the factory .357Sig barrel. I picked it up from him first thing this morning before work, so I haven't had much time to go over it. Externally the pistol is in mint condition. Everything internally appears in good working order, but I did notice that someone had done some polishing of a few parts (firing pin safety, and the part of the trigger bar that contacts it). The .40 barrel is in great condition. Has normal wear marks from use, but in great shape. The factory barrel, from what I was told, hasn't had more than a couple boxes of ammo through it. The exterior of the barrel has no wear marks, and the bore appears to be unused. The chamber end, however, appears to have some sort of fouling. Not sure exactly what it is, and I didn't have a lot of time to mess with it this morning. I took a large dental q-tip soaked in Hoppes #9 and spun it around in the chamber a couple times and seemed to remove part of it. I wiped that dry, put a light coat of oil, then left for work. I plan to get into it when I get home this afternoon.

    Question I have is, what is the best way to go about cleaning out that chamber? Can I soak the chamber end of the barrel in Hoppes #9 for a period of time without harming the black finish? I read somewhere some time ago about using flitz polish in a barrel/chamber. Is this a good idea? If so, how does one go about doing it without ruining anything?

    The seller included the remaining ammo that he had left after firing through the 33's factory barrel. All of the ammo is reloaded ammunition. The cases don't look very clean (nothing like new brass) and part of it is reshaped .40 brass. I don't think I'll use any of this ammo unless I'm absolutely forced to do so. Just thought I would bring it up though in case there was the possibility that the reloads had something to do with the chamber question.


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  2. A good rule is don't ever shoot someone else's reloads if how they were produced is in question. Don't worry about the chamber clean as you normally would do an shoot the crap out of it.

  3. Just make sure there was no material removed from any of the parts that were polished. I polish the firing pin safety, bar barr and etc on all my Glocks but only use 1000-1500 grit and then polish with Flitz by hand. Don't remove material.

    I would just keep hitting the barrel "fouling" with some Hoppes #9 on a q-tip and let the Hoppes work for 5 minutes or so before removing it. You don't want to leave it soaked in Hoppes long term.

    I would not shoot his reloads. I will not form .357sig brass from .40 unless I absolutely have no choice. When necking down .40 brass for .357sig the brass end up well below SAAMI specified minimum length. I also would not shoot the other guys reloads. Pull the bullets and salvage the bullets, primers and .357sig brass.
  4. Not sure if any material was removed or not. Everything looks normal to the naked eye. Everything seems to function just fine as well. One thing I did notice was that I could not always hear the striker moving back/forth unless I pulled the trigger back a bit past where it would normally rest. I pulled the polished safety out and swapped it with one from my g22. Striker then moved freely when trigger was in its resting position. I have ordered a new safety from and will have it here soon enough. May end up swapping out the trigger bar too at some point just in case.

    I have no intention of firing the reloads. I have no way of knowing whether they're charged properly or anything else. They may be good, then again they may be worthless. I have no way of knowing and it's not worth it to me to find out.
  5. Congrats on the new G33!

    Good man to not fire the reloaded ammo (because you just never know...) and also good on you to order some new parts. Again, you never know if the trigger group has been polished too much. The internal parts are cheap, and that'll be a good place for you to start keeping track of your new gun.

    At a minimum, on a used Glock I will swap out the recoil spring assembly and trigger spring, and maybe the trigger w/trigger bar if it looks like someone's gone crazy with a dremel or $0.25 trigger job.

    I also agree with the guys regarding some #9 and a copper bristle brush to get some of the fouling or surface rust out of the chamber area. I also like the wooden q-tips for that, too.

    Happy Shooting with your new G33!
  6. I got the chamber cleaned well enough to be acceptable to me. I'd like it better if it were in brand new condition, but it'll do exactly what it was intended to do regardless. Used #9 on a q-tip large enough that it barely fit in the chamber. Swabbed the chamber repeatedly, the. Scrubbed with a bore brush. Then repeated with the q-tip. Did this process multiple times then wiped dry. Soaked in CLP for about 1/2 hr. swabbed out bore and wiped off access. Will run some good factory ammo through it once I feel I have enough for a good range run.
  7. If you decide you want to go ahead and replace the trigger bar it would be a good time to put in a smooth trigger if you want one.

    I put a G17/G22/G31 smooth trigger in both my G33 and G32 and like it better than the grooved trigger that came with it.

    Something to keep in mind.
  8. Absolutely correct.

    You should never use 40 S&W brass to reload the 357 SIG. The case walls aren't as thick, on the 40 case.

    I guess you could make low power, range ammo that way, but nothing that generates pressure, higher than the 40.

    I usually always soak the bore overnight, with Hoppes #9 and get a little blue or green color the next day.
  10. When cleaning my chambers, I usually go up one size in bore brush. Try a .44 or .45 bore brush to clean your .40 chamber. Works great.
  11. Indeed it does. I scrubbed it out with a .45 cal nylon brush to aid in loosening things up.
  12. Congrats on the G33.
  13. I haven't found any use, at all for a nylon brush, to clean a barrel, except to push out dust bunnies.
  14. I generally use the factory brushes to clean the barrel, and it's worked well for me (I clean immediately after each use). The brush I chose in this case was a very stiff bristled .45acp bore brush. Worked well on, the chamber only, of the .357 Sig barrel.
  15. Well, there's hardly anything, in the chamber itself, it's covered up, with the cartridge case. The idea is to remove copper or lead fouling, in the barrel. There is usually some baked on, black stuff, in there, from some of the older powders that I use.
    #15 AustinTx, Jan 20, 2013
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2013
  16. Congrats on the new G33. I was at a pawn shop yesterday and they had a like new OD G33 for $460 out the door. I'm thinking hard about going by there tomorrow and getting it.
    #16 tonyparson, Jan 20, 2013
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2013
  17. I'd get it. Not a bad price, and from what I've read, the cartridge is just awesome. Find yourself a .40 barrel and have two cartridge options for one pistol without having to use different magazines.

    Update: I ordered and replaced the firing pin safety. This improved the free movement of the striker, but didn't completely cure the issue. I did a full detail strip of the frame and found that ALL of the trigger components have been polished. Including the Ghost Inc 3.5lb connector. I removed the connector and replaced it with a LWD 3.5lb connector I had lying around that isn't polished. I haven't ordered a new trigger bar yet, so I just reassembled the frame with the LWD connector installed to see what result I'd get. At this point, everything is functioning 100% as it is supposed to. Will probably still order a new factory trigger bar and connector, but in the mean time, I feel better about its current configuration.
  18. I would bet that any used G33 would not have a high round count, through it.
    #18 AustinTx, Jan 20, 2013
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2013

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