G20 - Fails to Pick up Next Cartridge

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by polarctica, Feb 12, 2013.


  1. I'm not a big fan of the 'limp wrist' concept. I think you can hold a pistol with just a couple of fingers and it will still work. In fact, the gun MUST work when shot weak hand unsupported while hanging upside down from a tree limb. Seriously, these guns are supposed to SHOOT!

    The other day, my grandson got into this topic so I had him shoot a Sig 1911 holding it lightly with only a couple of fingers. Just tight enough to keep from dropping the gun. It cycled perfectly. I have tried it with my G21SF and had the same results. It cycles perfectly.

    But that's not your gun... :dunno:

    As to Lee dies, the Lee sizing die has a smaller radius at the opening than most other dies. As a result, it sizes just a little farther down the case. That's a good thing!

    If you start reading on page 59 of Speer Rloading Manual #14, you will see where they talk about 'reading' primers. In fact, there is no discernable difference in the appearance at up to 20% overpressure. In other words, reading primers is hogwash! By the time there are signs indicating something is wrong, you are at least 20% over.

    That mark could be from the ejection port. Look for some copper coloring on the edge of the port. Consider this: The round just fired and was pushed against the chamber with about 30,000 psi. If there was a dimple in the case before it fired, it sure won't be there afterwards. So, the dimple is created during extraction. My guess: The case hits the lower edge of ejection port.

    Edit: If the mark is more of a scrape, it could be dragging against the top round in the magazine. Clearly, the extracting case does touch the top round but it shouldn't get more than a slight scrape.

    Richard
     

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    #21 F106 Fan, Feb 15, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2013
  2. ii's Open and Matt Berry - thanks for the feedback. Since this failure to feed occurs with both the stock barrel and a Wolff barrel, I suspect the ramp is OK. I'm also buying a case gauge.

    F106, thanks for the great dialogue. Here are some answers/comments:
    *No, the slide is NOT getting behind the round to lift it from the mag

    *My AOL is identical to factory, but no case gauge, so I'm also suspecting my reloads - especially since factory is not doing this (to my memory - it has been awhile since I've bought a box of shells, but plan on it now)

    *No idea about the bevel, but if opportunity permits, I'll compare. If my box of factory loads work, then this obviously isn't a problem

    *I've tried different loads with 180gr XTPs over 800x - starting from 8gr up to 10gr with no difference in functionality - still fails to pick up at least 1 of 15 rounds

    *no rubber buffer on my guide rod

    *I agree that a gun should shoot with floppy wrists, but I plan on testing this as well

    *As far as the dimple goes, it is a dimple - an indentation caused during extraction. I think your supposition is correct - hitting somewhere on my ejection port. Can't see any evidence of this on the port, and I'm saddened that my brass isn't beautiful, but it will still reload fine

    *And finally comments about my loads. I love to reload and I enjoy seeing what a round can reach - within reason. 30.06 and .44 mag have been my pet favorites and obviously I'm not overly familiar with a semi-auto - but I love my G20sf and will keep tinkering. I suspect my reloads are at fault and I'll go back to the drawing boards and work up some new loads, use a case gauge, and compare against a box of factory ammo. I like the idea of 15 rounds of near 41 mag power. It may not be that exciting to some, but that's OK. As far as I can tell, I'm not getting any slide slap and my shells don't show over-pressure signs (primers aside), I still have both eyes and a functioning pistol. I like it.

    Thanks, all.
     

  3. 800-X is a very slow powder. Ordinarily, that would be a good thing for heavy loads like the 10mm. It's just that it doesn't seem to come up in conversations over on the Reloading forum here at GlockTalk.

    Maybe there is a better powder to use.

    http://www.hodgdon.com/burn-rate.html

    Richard
     
  4. Strange my G23 will eat anything I feed it with no issues (.40SW is just a short 10mm Auto) and the feed ramps should be the same for the .40SW and 10mm. Most Glocks are not picky about ammo type at all, one of the many nice things about Glock. Try a factory load and be sure you dont get 10mm FBI load, it has less powder than a normal 10mm, FBI did not like the recoil of a full load on the 10mm. That ending up leading to the development of the .40SW. Any how, the G30 may not like the FBI load or any weak loads for that matter considering it has a dual recoil spring. Just the 2 cents of a newb.
     
  5. My g23 is doing the same thing. Its either one of my clips. In which I need to label them. Or, I think its from limp wristing. Try gripping the gun harder. It seems to work for my so far.
     
  6. I don't see a reason in the world why you would need a case gauge for your 10mm reloads. You have your barrels. Do you drop in test and move on.

    Your load is hot. But not insanely so. My Hornady 7th Edition shows 180gn XTP Max at 10.1gn with a COL/AOL of 1.260. I keep my book loads at 1.260. My over book loads I set at 1.270. All shot out of my LW 5.15" barrel. I haven't shot a load one out of the OEM barrel / paper weight. And load them with Lee Dies. I would not load plated bullets anywhere close to that load. Is the outside of your case mouth's all black and sooty looking? I've seen 9mm and smaller auto cartridges not cycle a slide right because the powder was to slow a burn rate. Thus the brass was not sealed against the chamber wall and energy was lost.

    The tab in the top of the slide has two functions. As the slide travels backwards after firing a round. It pushes the next round down slightly making sure there is plenty of room for the fired case to be extracted. The backwards travel also aids in making sure the next round is set back and set properly in the mag to be fed. Then the angled part on the face pushes down on the case rim and basically makes it pop out of the mag more so than pushing it out. The action of pushing down on the rim of the case and popping the round out is what wears out the mag followers over time.

    To check the action on any of my weapons I always make up dummy rounds. I make sure the brass is clean. But not polished. I resize it and put a spent primer in these rounds. I then fill them to my powder charge weight with corn starch or what ever the wife has on hand in the kitchen. Then set and crimp the bullets. As a matter of fact I just used five of these rounds to check the function of my G20. :)

    It's something simple or it wouldn't run at all.

    Good Luck
     
  7. Question is, is it the gun, the mags, or the ammo? Or the shooter?

    Prime suspect is the ammo.

    I would try to eliminate the ammo by running a box of Factory through it & see if the problem persists.

    When I can get it, I am partial to CCI Blazer (aluminum case) 200 gr FMJ @ 1,000fps. Runs my G20 like a sewing machine.

    If it does run, then the problem is in the gun or the mags. Or both. Or the shooter.

    In which case, I would send them back to Glock to troubleshoot.
     
    #27 Comrade Bork, Feb 15, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2013
  8. Jeezus. When trying to diagnose a problem gun, for crying out loud use factory loads.
     
  9. and factory Glock magazines, not clips.
     

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