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G17 Gen 2 slide problem

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by ron34422, Oct 30, 2012.

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  1. ron34422

    ron34422

    14
    0
    Oct 23, 2012
    I'm having a problem with my G17 Gen2...when field stripping it is difficult pushing the slide forward the first 1/2 inch or so after releasing the slide lock...I can move the slide forward with my right hand just enough to pull the slide free with my left hand (after releasing the slide lock of course)...it seems to be in a "bind" for some reason...when re-assyembling it seems to bind just when the rear of the slide is about 1/3 of the way on the rear slide rail...
    (see photos)...the recoil spring is seated properly and the trigger is pulled completely back...I have no problem with the function of the pistol...shoots fine...has anyone ever seen this type of problem?...any help would be appreciated..
     

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    Last edited: Oct 31, 2012
  2. AJE

    AJE *goes to 11*

    1,044
    11
    Apr 5, 2004
    SW Ohio
    Do you notice any wear on the bottom of the slide where something is rubbing? (like maybe the ejector is bent slightly upwards or the cover plate isn't fully seated in the slide)
     


  3. ron34422

    ron34422

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    Oct 23, 2012
    The only real wear I see on the bottom of the slide is on both sides where the barrel lug is located...(see photo)...also a small amount of wear at the end of the muzzle where the slide and receiver are binding...cover plate seems to be seated properly...
    ...does the ejector touch the bottom of the slide in normal operation?
     

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    Last edited: Oct 31, 2012
  4. Arc Angel

    Arc Angel Deus Vult!

    6,920
    6
    Sep 20, 2003
    Penn's Woods
    Your improper use of terminology has me thinking on overtime! It's, 'slide stop'; not, 'slide stops' - OK. You are, also, referring - I am sure - to the use of the slide lock instead of the, 'slide stops'.

    You are NOT having a problem with your, 'barrel lugs'. You are, I believe, referring to the anti-vibration extension, 'fingers' on the lock block. I find it interesting that your slide shows peening because of these LB extensions. You must be getting some terrific frame flexing when that Glock is fired!

    Do this: Before I tell you how to modify your Glock in order to make this problem go away I think you should call the factory and give them your G-17's serial number. Tell the nice man on the other end of the line what kind of problem you are having, and ask him what - if any - component upgrades might be available for your Glock.

    It wouldn't hurt anything for you to ask for a new slide lock; and you definitely need a new striker (FP) safety button AND spring. With that kind of peening I'd, also, be looking for a new RSA. (That's, 'Recoil Spring Assembly'.) In fact it might be time for a local certified armorer to give your Glock a real good, 'once over'.



    ADDED: One other thing, your slide is hanging up on the striker (FP) safety button, and the TB's (trigger bar's) riser cam. (The vertical extension on the TB that operates the striker safety's button head. 'Why' is an interesting question?)
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2012
  5. LampShadeActual

    LampShadeActual

    297
    10
    Sep 12, 2012
    Glock Armorers presented with a problematic firearm have some discretion in repair at that time rather than sending them to the factory. If unsafe, actually worn, or non-functioning, they can remove the offending parts, replace them to factory new function, and send the old parts to Glock with the serial number for a re-supply of the newly installed parts.

    This is where there are factory original parts with a problem not caused by the user modifying them. And not your Ghost trigger that doubles.

    This does NOT mean they will bail out your Dremel "25cent" trigger job. That is on your own dime.

    The marketing concept is obvious. First level military maintenance done on site with no shipping. Making guns safe and functional. Absolutely in their best interests.

    The best thing to do is find a Glock Law Enforcement dealer who will have parts and an armorer with some experience.
     
  6. ron34422

    ron34422

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    Oct 23, 2012
    Arc Angel please excuse my poor terminology and thank you for your reply...I should have used the term "slide lock" when field stripping...I was not referring to a "barrel lug" problem, just trying to give a general area to the location of the wear (peening) on the slide...I'll give Glock a call...

    LampShadeActual thanks for your reply...I will be looking for a Glock Armorer in my area...
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2012
  7. stolenphot0

    stolenphot0 RTF2 Addict

    5,430
    31
    Jan 26, 2012
    Kettering, OH
    Just to rule it out, does it have the NY trigger spring installed? The way your trigger looks, I would say probably not, but best to rule it out early.
     
  8. ron34422

    ron34422

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    Oct 23, 2012
    You are correct...it does not have a NY trigger spring...I've added a few more pics...I lined up the receiver and slide at the point where it's binding...also pointed out the wear on the slide that is visible...
     

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    Last edited: Oct 31, 2012
  9. Arc Angel

    Arc Angel Deus Vult!

    6,920
    6
    Sep 20, 2003
    Penn's Woods
    Forget about the apology; it's not necessary; and I can tell you're a fast learner. You've submitted two sets of photos. The second photo in the first set shows the slide peening as well as the safety button head wear that I'm referring to. The fourth photo of the second set shows the same peening, again.

    An NY-1 trigger spring will push a Glock's trigger bar upward; it is, probably, this that is causing so much wear on the head of the striker (FP) safety button. The slide peening remains indicative of considerable frame flex. Why? I don't rightly know; but if you use a file to, 'break the corners' on the forward top edges of the extension fingers you should be all right.

    I continue, by the way, to think that an armorer should go over your pistol. For your next question:

    http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/mediapages/ArticleDetail.aspx?mediaid=835
     
  10. ron34422

    ron34422

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    Oct 23, 2012
    I've decide to let let an armorer look at it before I try to do anything myself...Called Glock and they stated that there were no updated parts or recalls for my serial number...he wasn't interested in giving me advise over the phone without looking at it...can't blame him for that...he said send it in and they would look at it...
    I tried a little experiment...I disassembled the receiver part by part and tried the slide each step...then I disassembled the slide...with all the major parts removed the slide still binds on the receiver at the same place (photo)...I'm assuming the problem is either with the slide or receiver...any ideas?
     

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  11. JBS

    JBS

    258
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    Apr 4, 2012
    TX
    So it gets snug just as the slide starts on the rear frame rails? Measure the front and rear frame rails and see if they are the same.
     
  12. Arc Angel

    Arc Angel Deus Vult!

    6,920
    6
    Sep 20, 2003
    Penn's Woods
    Yeah, but, if the rails were off you'd have been having problems with this pistol right from the get-go. That's an interesting little experiment you conducted. Right now I'm starting to suspect that your polymer frame is, 'sprung'.

    (Which causes me to think that your pistol should, indeed, be sent to Glock, Smyrna.) ;)
     
  13. ron34422

    ron34422

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    Oct 23, 2012
    I think you might have the answer...it appears that the rear receiver rail (rails?) starts to flare a little and becomes wider where the slide starts to bind...would the fix be to polish the rear rails down a bit until the slide moves freely over it?...I wonder what might have caused the issue to begin with...thanks for your ideas...
     
  14. ron34422

    ron34422

    14
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    Oct 23, 2012
    Looks like it needs to go to Glock...I didn't know frames could "spring"...maybe that's why all my friends stayed clear of me when I was shooting!
     
  15. Arc Angel

    Arc Angel Deus Vult!

    6,920
    6
    Sep 20, 2003
    Penn's Woods
    'Spring' in the sense that the polymer frame tends to soften up and become more flexible over time. Things can move around; and this might have happened on your pistol. I noticed a number of years ago that many large police departments don't keep their Glock pistols much beyond 6 or 7 years. By all reports the frame life for a 9mm is considerably longer than other calibers. I can't say for sure, though. Many of the characteristics of polymer frames have yet to be known.

    Anyway, on your pistol I'd spend the money to send it back. Who knows? You might get a new frame out of it.
     
  16. By the way, great pix.

    In one of the early posts you had a great pic of the rear part of the slide. I see some funk that may be causing the problem. If all of the parts of the slide and frame are out and you still have a feeling of binding, this would be a quick and easy way to start. Soak it with some CLP, scrub it and see how it feels afterward.

    Capture.JPG
     
  17. ron34422

    ron34422

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    Oct 23, 2012
    Thanks, I'm using an Ipad to take the pictures...but sometimes pics can be deceiving...it's really not funk...for some reason that area just looks darker...maybe a shadow or something...it really is clean...thanks for your comments
     
  18. JBS

    JBS

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    Apr 4, 2012
    TX
    There are two possibilities that come to the front. If you are not the original owner a previous owner attempted to tighten the slide to frame fit by spreading the rails. Two, your rails have developed an internal crack. If the first case the slide will eventually wear clearance on the rails just by shooting it. I am much more concerned about possibility two, rail cracked. This will require a trip back to Mother Glock for inspection and probably an x-ray if they bother with that before replacing the frame. See if you can find an Advanced Armorer in our area to take a look, try your local PD or SO for an AA armorer.

    The third possibility is the rail was spread because the pistol experienced a Kaboom.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2012
  19. ron34422

    ron34422

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    Oct 23, 2012
    Interesting...I've owned the gun since 97' and it has functioned normally for all these years...I'm not sure how many rounds have been through it...maybe 400 to 500 by me...hasn't really been shot a lot...just recently I noticed the problem while field stripping for cleaning...No Kaboom that I'm aware of...are you referring to a crack in the metal rail itself or cracking in the polymer?...I'll try to find an AA in the San Antonio or Austin area...thanks again
     
  20. JBS

    JBS

    258
    0
    Apr 4, 2012
    TX
    In that case I will lean very heavily in the direction of a crack in the metal rail itself. It may well be under the Polymer beyond your detection.

    Just for grins look on he under side of the rail for a chunk of plating that came off and folded back on it's self making the rail thicker. Just a wild idea to check.