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Fussy, fussy! or 'Why does it take so long?'

4K views 35 replies 17 participants last post by  ronin.45 
#1 ·
Bushing as received measured .118" between lug and flange. Slide measured .110". Would have resulted in an .008" gap between end of slide and bushing flange. About 4-5 sheets of paper.
I machined a flat in the lug slot. Silver soldered in a piece of heat treated 4142 and remachined the slot to .110".







Nice tight fit!



A little while later.

 
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#17 ·
Thanks. I appreciate it. I'm going to buy some new bushings from EGW for my Kimbers (early ones with MIM barrel bushings) and was going to check this dimension as well. I might run the bushing O.D. 0.001 clearance to the slide and 0.002 to the barrel. Am I close here? This isn't a match gun but would like to do it right W.O. affecting reliability.

To clarify, I'm not a MIM hater, but have seen first hand what a broken bushing does to a Kimber (or any 1911 with a broken bushing like that). To me, it's cheap insurance to avoid a big repair bill.

Thanks in advance. Again, if it's taking food off your table, I understand.

Or, I might just send the slides/barrels to you and have a matched bushing/plunger installed with the happy face engraved in it. :supergrin:
 
#20 · (Edited)
Worn milling bits, when they dull, the material gets chipped.
This leads to the rough, chipped edge rather than a clean crisp edge.
Is your username pistolwrench? Or are you his spokesperson?

I should have directly addressed him, but I assume my question would go to the one who actually performed the work.

Thanks for the reply anyway.
 
#21 ·
I was not being sarcastic when I said the factory serrations were pretty good. Get a magnifying glass and look at any Colt or Springfield.
The factories use a tool which is a stack of slitting saws. All the serrations are cut in one pass.
Quick and adequate. But not the best way to achieve a nice looking surface finish.
I may be the only one that routinely remachines them. OCD I guess.....

And Paul, yes you are a bit cranky!
Me too.
 
#23 ·
I was not being sarcastic when I said the factory serrations were pretty good. Get a magnifying glass and look at any Colt or Springfield.
The factories use a tool which is a stack of slitting saws. All the serrations are cut in one pass.
Quick and adequate. But not the best way to achieve a nice looking surface finish.
I may be the only one that routinely remachines them. OCD I guess.....

And Paul, yes you are a bit cranky!
Me too.
Don't know why, but I find your re-cutting the cocking serrations quite interesting.

You call the tool the factories use a "stack of slitting saws".

faawrenchbndr says "worn milling bits". Would this be the same terminology/parts, similar, or different? I assume different......

Thanks.....and I appreciate your OCD.:supergrin:
 
#24 ·
Well to answer your question i'm a mill guy for a living. As far as a slitting saw its a thin piece of metal standard is say .0625 but can be whatever you want depending on the job your running at the time. Its a flat bit of metal with several teeth that sits on a keyway in an arbor and spins in your turret to cut metal. In this setup i'm assuming that several saws are on an arbor with spacers to get the effect of ribs or serations on the slide. A milling tool could be an end mill, ball mill, special ground whatever or even an indexable tool of some kind or can be one bit of steel or carbide that would have the slide set at 30 or 45 degrees in a fixture and would make several cuts to acheive the "steps" you see on the slide.

When you start to dull a slitting saw it either digs into the metal and walks....ie not cutting the metal cleanly or can dig out extra chunks as the saw gets bogged up and leaves what you see here in the first slide photo.
 
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