Fun/Fast cars

Discussion in 'Car Forum' started by Littlescroll, Nov 20, 2012.

  1. My first true go fast car was a '06 Mustang GT 'vert in torch red with red leather interior that was a lot of fun, but at over 116,000 miles, was replaced by this '10 Plum Crazy Pearl Challenger R/T Classic. When the 392 hemi came out, I picked up the '11 Green With Envy SRT8.
    There was such a difference in overall performance between between these two, the R/T was replaced with a '11 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Summit.
    The Challenger will be coming out with a 6.2 liter supercharged engine and if/when it's available in Sublime Green, that will be my next muscle car. I love subtle colors!:wow:

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  2. Littlescroll

    Littlescroll NRA Member

    Keep posting up any shots of your vehicles. I love to see them all. Here's a few more recent photos. I've installed a few new parts including a bigger top-mount intercooler:



    Badge delete cleaned up the back a bit:


    #42 Littlescroll, May 1, 2013
    Last edited: May 1, 2013
  3. Here's mine. Previous owner put a Dinan exhaust on it and had Dinan software upgraded. I actually don't like loud exhausts, and it's borderline on being too loud for my taste..... but I do like the rumble it has when I start it up in the garage in the morning.


    Since it's a CS model (Competition Package), it came with a special button on the steering wheel to put the traction control system in "track mode". The addition of this button meant that they deleted the steering wheel controls for the stereo (big deal) and cruise control (sucks for trips).

    Having done the "modding" thing in the past, I know now that I have zero desire to modify a daily driver for performance purposes. I appreciate well done cars, but it's just not for me. Factory fast makes me happy now. I'm happy just to do my own maintenance without screwing around with other stuff.

    With that said, I did have to mod the car.... found a pretty slick write-up on doing a factory cruise retrofit. I needed to replace the clockspring anyway, so I did it all at once. I removed the steering wheel to replace the clockspring. While that was out, I replaced the washer stalk with one from a different model that had an additional button on it for intensive wash. Then I rewired the Track Mode to be activated by the button on the washer stalk and installed a cruise retrofit panel to the top of the steering wheel (gives me all of the steering wheel controls back). Now I have the CS model Track Mode and the non-CS model cruise control.

    The green icon on the right is the cruise control symbol and the orange arrow on the left is the track mode indicator.

    Love the power, handling, and braking. Love the factory drilled rotors... hate the price to replace them (over $200 each). Love the wide, sticky tires... hate the price to replace them every 15-20k miles ($1000-1500 a set). Love the wheels... hate cleaning them.
    #43 wct097, May 1, 2013
    Last edited: May 1, 2013
  4. Glock30Eric

    Glock30Eric .45 ACP


    Really do you have to replace the tire set for every 15k to 20k? Do you like to spin the tires?
  5. I'm not going to say that I never turned traction control off, but spinning tires was absolutely not a regular event for me. They're staggered in size front to rear, so you can't rotate them. They're also soft compound "summer" tires. I think 10k or 15k is the best tread wear warranty I've seen for staggered performance tires.

    I bought the car with ~53k miles. Owner claimed the Toyo Proxis tires had 10k on them. Replaced the rears at 63.5k miles with Hankook V12s. I expect it'll be much like my motorcycle where I only change the front every two times that I change the rear. I want to use Michelin tires for the next full change. I think that's about $1400 for the set.

    edit: The Hankooks I bought have no treadlife warranty:

    The Pilots that I would like to use have a 20k mile warranty for the fronts and 10k for the rears since they're a different size.
    #45 wct097, May 1, 2013
    Last edited: May 1, 2013
  6. Glock30Eric

    Glock30Eric .45 ACP

    It made sense.

    I am still mudding with the decision to buy an used M3 either E36 or E46. Both cars have it own unquie characterisitcs that I like.

    How is the maintenace on your E46? It seems that you like to work on your own car as I do. The maintenance thing is the factor with my decision to buy an E36 and E46. I know it will be expensive but I don't want to spend lots of my time to maintenance it.
  7. As someone who maintains their own vehicles, I would be very unlikely to own a BMW newer than 2006 as they are extremely maintenance unfriendly with a dealer computer system almost required for any substantial repairs.... or even just changing the battery.

    Mine is a 2005, so maintenance is still reasonable for a guy that works on his own stuff. I did have to purchase a new jack that was low enough to fit under the car. I should have bought a better jack years ago anyway.

    Honestly, I think these cars were very well engineered to be worked on. There are a lot more things to break or screw up, but they're still easy to work on. In my case, I don't have a FSM, so I'm working purely based on knowledge from working on vehicles my entire life and from what I can glean from the internet.

    Aside from the low profile jack, I've had to purchase one specialty tool to diagnose and reset the airbag light when the clockspring was bad. It cost $30:

    [ame=""]B800 for BMW SRS Scan/reset Airbag Scan/reset Car Diagnostic Tool /Equipment : : Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@[/ame]

    I've only put about 10k miles on it, so my efforts have been somewhat limited. I've replaced the clockspring, retrofitted cruise control while maintaining track mode, changed the oil, and removed the rear brakes for inspection. After inspecting the brakes it became apparent that they still had some wear left. As such, I've got a new set of pads and rotors, and a wear sensor in my garage for when the time comes to replace them.

    The e46 does require a special, dealer only, oil, but the price really isn't much higher than I've been paying for Mobil 1 10w30 for my Jeep for the last decade. It's actually less when you consider the 15k mile change interval (previous owner changed at 7500 miles and I'm doing that as well).
  8. Oh yea... I also replaced the spring on my gas door. I think the dealer sold it to me (using my brother's shop discount) for $0.39.
  9. Glock30Eric

    Glock30Eric .45 ACP

    Awesome and thank you for the comment. It made me feel more comfortable to lean on the decision with 2002-2005 E46 M3.

  10. I'm a turbo 4-cylinder guy. This is my compound turbocharged 2.0L Eclipse. Runs on gasoline and makes 550 ft/lbs torque at the wheels. Hooks good too with AWD, so it's a riot on the street.

  11. No pics, but mine is a 2002 M-B SLK 230.

    Some say it's a girl's car...if it is then call me Doris.
  12. I've had both, and neither have required more maintenance than any other I've had. E36's are very easy to work on.
  13. Glock30Eric

    Glock30Eric .45 ACP

    What have made you to trade M3s for a MB SLK 230?
  14. Gotta love the 4g63! How much boost, where does it kick in, and what internals are you running?

    Rogue Nation
  15. Just replaced my factory Bridgestone Potenza RE50A tires at just over 26k miles.They were in bad shape! I like to do "quick starts" from a stop, but I don't do it often. I went with the Hankook v12's too. Staggered tires go quick. One reason is they can't be rotated. I will feel fortunate if the new tires last as long as the originals.
  16. Glock30Eric

    Glock30Eric .45 ACP

    That's great. I don't know if you all know that you could save lots of $ by ordering tires from and then have your local people install it for you.
  17. Nothing impressive with the internals. Off the shelf Eagle rods, Wiseco pistons, and Kelford cams. Factory crank and valves. I'd like to eventually build an aluminum rod engine for it, but I have a hard time spending the money when this engine just keeps pushing strong. I build this engine in '07 and I've been kicking its ass ever since without a single problem. :)

    It's running 47 PSI boost. Here's spool numbers measured on the street (with rolling resistance) not on the dyno:

    10 psi @ 3264 RPM
    20 psi @ 3720 RPM
    30 psi @ 4058 RPM
    40 psi @ 4418 RPM
  18. VC-Racing

    VC-Racing General Flunky

    Yep.... TR is a super place to deal with. CS is above and beyond spectacular ......

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  19. Mr Spock

    Mr Spock Vulcan

    You're on 8th too?

    I have a RR 2011 FA5. Love it. No mods yet though.
  20. Mr Spock

    Mr Spock Vulcan

    That is a beast of a car. Nice.

    I'd wager it is one of the quickest posted in the thread so far.

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