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Fitting A Ghost Rocket Without An Orange Plate?

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by Specialized, Jan 17, 2013.

  1. Specialized

    Specialized

    12
    0
    Dec 30, 2012
    I'm about to fit a Ghost Rocket to my 3rd gen G36, and I cannot find an orange stop plate. If necessary, is there any reason why I can't just remove the firing pin/striker assembly by locking back the slide, trapping the striker assembly, and sliding off the plate/removing the striker? It's not as elegant as tripping the thing with a punch under the orange plate, but it should accomplish the same thing, right? Am I missing something?
     
  2. cciman

    cciman

    3,583
    117
    Jan 19, 2009
    SW Ohio
    I highly would not recommend this.
    You'll be posting back here with lots of questions.

    Don't they sell them on the website?
     



  3. It could be done, but it's going to be a pain, as you have to do multiple times to get it to fit just right.

    GlockMonk
     

  4. Yes you could hold the slide back and do it that way but its a major pain
     
  5. rockriverrenegade

    rockriverrenegade

    48
    3
    Dec 21, 2009
    I have installed many without the orange plate. I never liked the idea of having to manipulate the internals with a punch or screwdriver. I do it just as said, if the trigger won't release striker, lock slide back and remove striker. Rinse and repeat until satisfied.
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2013
  6. Specialized

    Specialized

    12
    0
    Dec 30, 2012
    Yep, that's just what I did. The spring kit was of great help, and I discovered that there was a 5lb Ghost connector in it already, but the springs were stock and it seriously needed cleaning and polishing.

    Thanks to everyone for your input, Glocks are easy and fun to work on! Might have to do the armorer's course at some point soon.
     
  7. silverfd

    silverfd

    83
    1
    Jan 25, 2013
    its like 3-4 bucks on their website, just buy the orange plate!
     
  8. I did it without, and I didn't experience any of the issues stated. I just held my striker in with the tip of my thumb, and worked the trigger. If it didn't work, remove and stone off some more of the connector. Then I angled it, and polished it. Works great, didn't need the 1-time use plug.
     
  9. Specialized

    Specialized

    12
    0
    Dec 30, 2012
    Agreed, it's not a hassle to do it without. I'd rather spend the money toward an engraved back plate or more springs. Thanks for the input!
     

  10. <-- I like the way you think :whistling:

    Another tip - leave the "reducded trigger pull" spring kits to the competition guys. If you want to put in a lighter safety plunger spring or a heavier trigger spring, those are all fine and dandy, but leave that striker spring alone. I played with the wolf kits, and the striker spring is just too light. A dozen or so light strikes over the course of 300 rounds or so had me putting my stock striker spring back in. Glocks loose about 95% of their appeal once they cease to go bang every time.
     
  11. Specialized

    Specialized

    12
    0
    Dec 30, 2012
    Yep, agreed. There's a time and place for it, and I've done a lot of game guns using competition parts. But this Glock is a carry gun, so I'm doing everything for reliability and usability. I have the trigger down to 4lbs 4oz, and that's just fine -- about as low as I want to go for a carry gun. It has an extra-power FP spring and trigger spring, and it seems to work just fine. As soon as it proves out through 200 rounds, it's going back into the carry rotation.

    Thanks everyone for all the tips and comments, I appreciate it!