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Extractor sliding off case rim during extraction

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by saltydog452, Mar 9, 2011.

  1. saltydog452

    saltydog452

    266
    0
    Aug 15, 2004
    and I get an attempted double feed as the slide returns to battery.

    Other than return it to glock, what is the fix?..can the fix be done by your average tenthumbed arthritic Neanderthal?

    Thanks,

    salty
     
  2. mteagle1

    mteagle1

    586
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    Oct 17, 2008
    Great Falls, MT
    Question (1) When was the last time the slide was cleaned. (2) Do you know how to disassemble your slide. (3) If not do you know if there is a Glock armorer locally who can show you. Failing the above go to glockstore.com and buy a dvd called "Making Glocks Rock".
     


  3. lethal tupperwa

    lethal tupperwa

    8,669
    589
    Aug 20, 2002
    Virginia
    Look for a build up of crud(technical term) in the hook of the extractor.

    Or for a chipped or broken hook.
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2011
  4. faawrenchbndr

    faawrenchbndr DirtyThirty fan CLM

    36,092
    456
    Nov 24, 2005
    Troy
    The slide is easily detail striped & extractor replacement is VERY easy.
    Not my video, but this one is a rather good one.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fExL6MIq4Fc
     
  5. cciman

    cciman

    3,583
    117
    Jan 19, 2009
    SW Ohio
    How old is the gun?

    There are a few springs inside the extractor assembly that may need to be replaced.

    But, try the previously mentioned exam and slide strip/clean, before doing anything else. There are plenty of sources to show how to strip the slide (google).

    Tip; keep your thumb over back of the slide as you slide off the rear cover plate-- a few things under spring tension that will want to jump into the room and get lost.
     
  6. saltydog452

    saltydog452

    266
    0
    Aug 15, 2004
    Thanks all.

    I understand about stuff getting lost. There is an entrance to an innerstellar Black Hole somewhere in the floor of my garage.

    salty
     
  7. saltydog452

    saltydog452

    266
    0
    Aug 15, 2004
    As usual, springs seem to fly away to hide in places that defy imagingation, logic, and vision.

    Is there a schematic, with correct nomenclature, available for the 36?

    I need to order several replacement springs. One of those replacement springs normally lives at the shooter end of the shaft that holds the ejector in place. I'd like a replacement for thal little puppy and some spares.

    I might as well order some replacement springs for the Series 80 looking gizmo that seems to hold the extractor in place. Its a spring, and it will go away. Might as well get a stash of replacements for these too.

    The glockstore, and others, probabally has the parts, but I don't know the nomenclature, part numbers, and such.

    Suggestions appreciated.

    Thanks,

    salty
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2011
  8. Dave.1

    Dave.1

    2,011
    125
    Dec 12, 2009
    Colorado
    Here's a schematic from Glockmeister.
    http://www.glockmeister.com/ExplodedGlockDrawing.asp

    You're probably looking for part #s 12,13,14.

    They're called the same thing on all the pistols but take a look at the on line parts because some are caliber specific.

    Dave
     
  9. saltydog452

    saltydog452

    266
    0
    Aug 15, 2004
    Thanks Dave.

    Slide clean, no crud. Extractor not chipped. Springs, and spares, on order (one went into the black hole).

    Extra power mag springs installed also.

    Comments/suggestions appreciated.

    salty
     
  10. Brian Lee

    Brian Lee Drop those nuts

    9,539
    427
    Jul 28, 2008
    Up a tree.
    1.) FIRST check for crud in the extractor slot that could be effecting it's movement.

    2.) All the parts that could possibly be connected to this problem are pretty cheap, and a person familiar with it could replace all of them in about 3 to 5 minutes.

    I'd suggest buying a copy of "The Complete Glock Reference Guide" from Poomta publications (which will show you how to do it - got mine from Lone Wolf Distributors) along with all the parts in the slide except for the firing pin stuff & the rear cover, and then replace them yourself.

    The book will eventually save you MANY times more than it cost to buy it.
     
  11. janice6

    janice6 Silver Member

    31,051
    11,619
    Apr 4, 2006
    minnesota
    I had a problem with losing parts and a solution offered to me was "do it in a plastic bag. Then you know where the parts went". Sage advice.
     
  12. Dave.1

    Dave.1

    2,011
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    Dec 12, 2009
    Colorado
    A couple of good suggestions from Brian Lee and janice6. That book and plastic bags have saved many people.

    Just remember when you're putting in the extractor-depressor-plunger assembly that metal goes to metal and plastic to plastic. That is the metal end of the assembly touches the metal of the extractor and the plastic end touches the plastic slide cover plate.

    Let us know how it works out.

    Dave
     
  13. saltydog452

    saltydog452

    266
    0
    Aug 15, 2004
    When I checked for crud (technical term), a spring from the extractor side of the slide went far, far away, I don't know if the spring took any plastic parts along with it, or not.

    The schematic shows an additional part, but the resolution, even with Magnifier, is way indistinct.

    It is a 36, does that make a difference?

    If so, I didn't order any replacement parts of plastic, just slide springs.

    Do I need to order additional parts?

    Thanks,

    salty
     
  14. lethal tupperwa

    lethal tupperwa

    8,669
    589
    Aug 20, 2002
    Virginia
    plastic to plastic and metal to metal

    yes you need parts and you need the correct ones.
     
  15. emspilot1

    emspilot1 Rider13

    60
    1
    Feb 27, 2010
    Tampa
    "When I checked for crud (technical term), a spring from the extractor side of the slide went far, far away, I don't know if the spring took any plastic parts along with it, or not."

    It did indeed take something with it. That plastic part was the spring loaded bearing. Depending on whether or not you have a LCI or non-LCI G36, you will need to order the correct spring loaded bearing. GlockParts.com has them. While you are there take a look at the White Sound Defense stainless extractor spring. According to their sales hype, it has 20% more tension than the stock one. I was having FTE's with my G36 and I thought that a stronger spring might help. I've only had a chance to run 60 or so rounds through since replacement. No FTE's so far where before I might have had 1 to 3 with the old spring in place. Not saying the old spring was the problem but so far so good.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2011
  16. cciman

    cciman

    3,583
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    Jan 19, 2009
    SW Ohio
    Wolf Extra power striker spring, while the slide is apart, is not a bad idea also.

    When I order those small parts, it costs the same to ship one or several. So it is good to have spares.



     
  17. saltydog452

    saltydog452

    266
    0
    Aug 15, 2004
    OK, Glock rookie asking...

    With the barrel in the slide, a dummy round in the chamber, just where is the LCI (Loaded Chamber Indicator) located? Is it visual or tactile?

    If it helps, the serial # of this 36 reads 'DBZ 123'. I have no way of knowing if this is the 'New' Model', 'Newer Model', or the 'Newest...'you get the idea.

    Again, Glock rookie here.

    Thanks,

    salty
     
  18. Dave.1

    Dave.1

    2,011
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    Dec 12, 2009
    Colorado
    Sorry I don't have a pic but it's on the end of the extractor (from rear of pistol right hand side) right at the back of the ejection port. The ejector is flat and right on the end is a rectangle which sticks out with a round in the chamber. It's mostly tactile but you can also see it.

    Found a pic

    Dave

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2011
  19. cciman

    cciman

    3,583
    117
    Jan 19, 2009
    SW Ohio
    I never trust it, it is very subtle both visually and tactilely. I do it the old fashioned way- press check.

    You cannot upgrade.
    If you have an older slide, the LCI extractor will not work with it.

    A non-LCI slide will only accept the non-LCI extractor, and vice versa.

    IDK whether you can get extractor for the older guns.

    If you want to upgrade- you have to send the gun back to Glock for them to cut the slide to accept the LCI
     
  20. Dave.1

    Dave.1

    2,011
    125
    Dec 12, 2009
    Colorado
    I agree that it's a very subtle bump on the slide.

    Some like the visual on the M&P with the slight hole in the slide for viewing the brass but I think it's too small to see if you're in a hurry.

    As long as you practice and get some experience with a snap cap, the press check is probably the best method. I've seen some people sweeping the barrel around trying it and was glad they only had snap caps.

    Dave