How do you know that you simply hadn't reached the mechanical limit of your priming system? If that was the case, you could squeeze with enough pressure to break your finger bones, and it still wouldn't necessarily mean the primer had been seated to the max extent possible. Especially if it was too "short". Shorter than any primer system manufacturer had envisioned primers would ever be.
It ain't rocket science G&D. First of all, every one of the 30,000 or so pieces of brass I have on hand for the calibers I load has been U-Die sized, primer pockets fully prepped, cleaned/polished, sorted & stored by headstamp. I never...and I do mean, never...have seating issues. These primers were going into cleaned, polished, shiny, cases and contrary to being difficult, seating primers (Wolf included) is glassy smooth whether using the Dillon or the LCT. Primers, irregardless of brand, provide a positive feedback as the anvil contacts the bottom of the pocket. Every round is individually case gauged and inspected before boxing. I spent a considerable amount of time experimenting with different priming setups and not only did I not have any of the problems some have reported fully seating them to the contrary, they seated both easily and fully for me using different priming methods.
Now, could there be some abberation that can't be detected that makes them require a little more "whack"? Sure. If it is, I can't find it by visual means or by measurement, though. Some are a little "out of round" but that's not uncommon in other brands and should pose no problem. I do know that the problems with these arose with the first batches after Wolf switched from plain brass to the new, plated, version. An awful lot of people that had loaded Wolf for years and frankly, loved them now suddenly had these problems pop up when these nickle versions hit. I do have a theory (*read, a pure guess) that the problem may be in their anvil design allowing it to have a bit of "give" in it. The one thing that stuck in my mind when all this came up (now, months ago if not more) was that the unfired rounds "appeared" to have been struck hard enough to have lit but, didn't. You'd be hard pressed to whap a Federal or Winchester equally hard without it going bang.
I don't see this as a big deal. Folks running stock guns will likely not have a burp using the new Wolfs...mine ran them 100%. My G-34 and G-35 are both pretty well tweaked out and had problems. On those, I found just switching back to an OEM FP with a reduced power OEM FPS (-5 or 6 coils IIRC) ran them in the range guns at the expense of a slightly heavier trigger. It did'nt take much, just a little more mass. I just accept the fact that they are harder to ignite and will leave the reason to others. I don't subscribe to the failure to seat thing for a couple of reasons. If this were the case, there would also be significant problems with stock setups and AFAIK, there isn't. Secondly, a high primer hit a second time will fire more often that it don't...only a very few of these fired with multiple hits. My experience convinced me that regardless of the factors involved they can be problems in tuned guns and should the cause be related to seating in some way then, it's just not worth the grief trying to correct a manufacturing flaw with brute strength trying to compensate by crushing them in. Life's too short and the god of good primers (Federal) is still in business.
And just to put a point on the thread...I ran the rest of the Wolf-primed loaded test rounds with the OEM FP and modified OEM FP Spring setup boringly uneventful. Once gone, I went back to my preferred setup and have not failed one time...ever...to light a Federal or Winchester with them. The rest of that particular shipment of 5,000 was sold to a shooting buddy running mostly CZ's. He loads while sitting (due to a handicap) using a 550B and has no issues with them in his guns. I've no reason to try them again but if I needed primers and that's what I could get I'd just swap the parts, load 'em & shoot 'em and not think twice about it.