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CCF Raceframe: Initial Impression…

Discussion in 'Gun-Parts & Access.' started by cledford3, Feb 18, 2008.

  1. mikwon

    mikwon

    2
    0
    Feb 4, 2008
    What blows my mind is there quote on there opening page, "Taking Perfection to the next level". Wow! After reading your post Calvin, it seems very clear there stance on the situation, null and void...I defintely will not be making the purchase for my .40
    Thanks Mike
     
  2. cledford3

    cledford3

    56
    0
    Feb 4, 2005
    Now that weather is warming and I've increased spring weigh buffers lasting much longer - problem solved in my book. Thumbs up to CCF.

    -Calvin
     


  3. uumikew

    uumikew

    5
    0
    Nov 24, 2005
    Sterling, VA
    I was shooting in the PSA Steel match yesterday and had my CCF-G22 become completly non-functional! I had shot 2 stages (approx 60 rounds) and on the first shot of stage 3 the slide jammed about halfway into battery. No amount of slide racking (it wouldn't move) or any other normal clearance attempts would get the slide to move. I thought it might be a blown case stuck in the chamber but after getting safe and going to the safe area to work on it I found that the lock block had sheared off between the frame rails and jammed in front of the recoil spring! I had to take the gun apart from the back cover to loosen up things enough to get the slide off. I have run this combo for almost a year and never had any problems with it. I have used the buffers required and replaced about every 200 rounds to keep it working. I will post pictures later when I get home to let everyone see what happened. I have sent a letter to Larry at CCF but have not gotten a response yet. I will be calling him on Monday morning. Needless to say it made a 3 hour (6 hour round trip) drive pretty much a waste of time. I am glad I had my Open G34 to shoot in the afternoon so the trip was not a total loss.

    More info/pics later,

    -- mike --
     
  4. graycrait

    graycrait

    299
    0
    Aug 29, 2006
    Clarksville, TN
    Does anyone know if you can replace the CCF locking block with a stock locking block? I would sure like to shoot my 6-port Lone Wolf G34 barrel using the CCF frame.

    Craig in Tennessee
     
  5. uumikew

    uumikew

    5
    0
    Nov 24, 2005
    Sterling, VA
    Here are a couple of pics of teh slide and lock block. Enjoy!
     

    Attached Files:

  6. uumikew

    uumikew

    5
    0
    Nov 24, 2005
    Sterling, VA
    # What parts come with the frame, are they already complete and ready for me to put my slide & barrel assembly on?
    Our frames are supplied with a new lock block & pins already precision fitted and a new takedown lever spring, otherwise you will need all the components from your Glock's® frame to move to the CCF Frame. The lockblock has been permanently bonded into the frame on the stainless frames, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE IT as it will damage your frame. On the aluminum frames they have not, but if you own more than one aluminum frame, DO NOT INTERCHANGE THE LOCK BLOCKS – they have been engraved with the last 3 digits of that frame’s serial number, and do not attempt to substitute the lockblock from an original glock. The cross pins will still push out for firearm assembly/dis-assembly but do not attempt to use original Glock® lock block pins as they are a different diameter from the CCF RaceFrame pins and their use can / will damage your frame. The CCF lock block was bored after being installed into the frame & both frame and lock block are cross bored at the same time, resulting in an exact fit with the lock block fully seated in it's pocket. The addition of being permanently bonded into your frame eliminates all free play or movement of the lock block, which helps insure the most precise trigger action for your CCF RaceFrame.
     
  7. Snaps

    Snaps Hail 2 The King

    3,787
    99
    Apr 8, 2004
    SWPA sticks
    I've been looking at getting a frame for about a year now. Just as I'm ready to pull the trigger on it I looked for info here and I won't purchase one now knowing that it requires extra parts that wear our to work.

    Thanks for this thread
     
  8. Chevy327

    Chevy327

    279
    0
    Jun 9, 2009
    Hey...now that weather is warming, couldn't you use increased spring weigh buffers which SHOULD last much longer?

    Just a thought...
     
  9. Jager1147

    Jager1147

    466
    7
    Nov 17, 2002
    Ronkonkoma, NY
    The Polymer guide rods w/integral bumper solved the short life issue with the grey frame buffers. (We make the Polymer guide rods w/integral bumper for CCF, must disclose relationship). These use a 22 lb. recoil spring. These are available at CCF's web site here: http://www.ccfraceframes.com/recoilguides.html

    I believe CCF has worked to resolve the locking block issue, outside of that I am not aware of any more news with these.

    FWIW, I have fitted a stock locking block to a stainless CCF frame, and I know a few others have done this as well.
     
  10. SC-Texas

    SC-Texas

    146
    13
    Mar 15, 2004
    Houston, TX
    How long does the polymer guide rod and buffer last before replacement is needed?
     
  11. Jager1147

    Jager1147

    466
    7
    Nov 17, 2002
    Ronkonkoma, NY
    I have not heard any reports of replacing these parts at all. The grey frame buffer has a life of approx. 2000 rounds when shooting .40, but the guide rod and bumper on the rod do not wear out.

    I disagree with CCF as to using the grey buffers at all in 9mm, I feel they are not neccessary and only cause the gun to short stroke by the thickness of the grey buffer. Not using it voids the warranty, but the only warranty value is in case the locking blocks break.
     
  12. Jager1147

    Jager1147

    466
    7
    Nov 17, 2002
    Ronkonkoma, NY
    It's not that difficult to fit yourself at home with just a bench grinder, hand files and emory paper.

    Get this locking block:
    http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=495
    from Lone Wolf and fit by hand. Compare with the CCF locking block and slowly remove material until you can install the pins. Watch the edges and corners as you take it down to size, this is important at the final stages.