Can we create a stick on good vs bad brass to reload?

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by alank2, Mar 23, 2008.

  1. Helms


    I will save all of my JUNK S&B for you if you really want it. I doubt I will ever have enough for a FRB though. You will also have to let me know how that turns out for you and how exactly you get around dealing with junk brass with undersized primer pockets.

    While you are at it, you want some of my .40 federal cartridges too?

    Wanna kill these ads? We can help!
  2. gwalchmai

    gwalchmai Lucky Member

    Well, if by "undersized" you're referring to the slight crimp that has to be overcome the first time you reload S&B, I deal with it by applying slightly more firm but gentle pressure, and the primer seats just fine. Subsequent reloads (and I'm at four or five on many S&Bs), go without a hitch. ;)

    I don't shoot .40, but thanks, anyway. :supergrin:

  3. Helms

    no, I mean undersized primer pockets. I didnt see a crimp anywhere on there, but there is some red sealant. I have had some S&B stuff work great, but this particular batch is a nightmare. I tried every trick I could, from beveling the primer pockets, pressing more firmly, etc. and I cant get a standard small pistol primer to seat more than 1/2 way, which tells me that it probably isnt from some crimp or something, because the primer does start- it just wont seat anywhere near flush. This is 9mm stuff, BTW.
  4. Okay so say a fellow had 3k 40s&w brass and was gonna load some screamers up using them. Now if he sorted all that brass and had about an equal number of:


    So assuming all brass was inpected and "looked" good to go, which brand would you want to use for loading HOT 40s (we're talking ammo not websites :tongueout:) ???
  5. Helms

    heh... I suppose it depends on how hot we are talking, but if it were ME, and you are shooting this out of a glock with the unsupported chamber, I would use new brass for some he-man loads.

    The common response is that federal brass is junk. I use a few, but try to toss most of them out. They were redesigned at one point to make them a little more "burst proof" at the webbing, so they in theory should be OK with the newer stuff, but I just dont trust them. I have also seen some nastily bulged out rem. and win. brass. I would say if it were up to me, I guess speer. That seems to look a tad stronger just from looking at fired brass. I use my .40 less than other brass, with about 3 reloads or so before I toss them. I think the constant expansion on the brass from the "glock bulge" and resizing process weakens it a bit. Perhaps I am paranoid, but I really dont want to KB my glock if I can keep from it.
  6. I have some input but am not sure it is useable because I am not sure the quality is the same in the US and here in Europe:


    GFL-Fiocchi good
    S&B-Seller & Belot not good, small primers pockets

    38 spcl:
    REM-Remington good
    IMI- Israel Manfct. good
    GFL- Fiocchi good
    S&B- not so good

    S&B- good
    GFL- not so good
    IMI- good

    S&B - not good
    FC - Federal good

    S&B - good
    IMI - good

    IMI- good
  7. What's wrong with GFL 45acp?

    With regards to S&B, will swaging the primer pocket help?
  8. the 45 ACP GFL is more difficult to prime

    the S&B 9mm : I did not try to swage
  9. Helms

    I can't comment on primer pocket swaging on the S&B 9mm, but I do know that I cleaned the pocket, reamed it just a bit and even chamfered the pocket to try and ease seating and it just didnt work. I suspect you could swage them to size, but I dont really want to put that much effort into making 9mm brass shootable when there are tons of it out there that is far less labor intensive to mess with.
  10. Swaging S&B 9mm does work, buy WHY ?????
    At least in the U.S.A. we have a large selection of good, different headstamps to work with.

    and 1 crappy one.

    uncle albert
  11. gwalchmai

    gwalchmai Lucky Member

    Truth be told, I have so much Winchester 9mm that it's the only one I reload. .45 Auto I load everything.
  12. JMS

    JMS 02

    Ran across some more headstamps, good or bad?? Company?? Feel free to add to list.

    One looks like a circle with an i through it
    Para at top, triangle shape at bottom
    CCI N/R

    ()=primer pocket

  13. Exactly the same opinion.

    For 9mm it is not worth all the work !
    Eventhough I can not find so many different brands at our ranges here in Belgium and that the most commonly found brass IS S&B, I would not consider swaging, reaming and chamfering primers pockets in 9mm.
  14. Have 1500 pieces of .40S&W IMI brass (already loaded with Precision Moly coated bullets)...shot about 400 of them and reloaded the brass already. GOOD brass...cleans up nice, sizes real easy, and seems stouter than other brass (ie: R-P, Speer).
  15. So what's the bad news on Armscor .45 ACP brass? I just picked a baggie of a couple hundred of them off the prize table at our MNSL banquet. They appear to be virgins.
  16. gwalchmai

    gwalchmai Lucky Member

    Gary, if you mean the ones marked AP and a two digit year, I've loaded a few in .45ACP and they were fine. .45ACP is very forgiving, of course.

    BTW, for anyone who doesn't have it already, HERE is a list of headstamp codes and their companies.

    And HERE is a gallery.

    And HERE.
  17. That's it! AP 03 I didn't recognize the head stamp, but I got to the prize table late and it was down to seeds and stems, so....

    Thanks! I'll load 'em up with either my Mellow Major or Minor load.
  18. I bought some ammo called "CCI Blazer Brass" in .40 S&W. It's blazer but with brass cases instead of their aluminum or whatever crappy cases. Anyone used these before? Just wondering what to expect out of the brass once the factory part goes boom :wow:
  19. JMS - some IDs for you in red:

  20. gwalchmai

    gwalchmai Lucky Member

    Man, that's one I haven't heard in a long time. :supergrin:

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