Can we create a stick on good vs bad brass to reload?

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by alank2, Mar 23, 2008.

  1. Isn't GFL Fiochi too?

    Wanna kill these ads? We can help!

    SILVERBACK32 Head Gorilla

    Was the headstamp * SPEER* OR SPEER ?

  3. Helms

    I just ran through a batch of sellier and beloit 9mm brass with the red goop on the primers. They were total JUNK. Did NOT want to seat primers in any way, shape or form. I had two out of about 15 actually seat primers flush, the other ones would only go about 1/2 way if that, so I junked them. I dont think I will even be trying my hand at S&B brass anymore.

    FC NATO brass is finicky. I had a couple that absolutely did not want to seat primers as well, but they may have been crimped. I didnt check too closely. Might want to mark some of the older crimped 9mm NATO stuff as brass that isnt really worth the time of messing with.

    Also, i really like R-P 9mm brass as it seems pretty easy to seat primers in since the primer pocket is beveled, I would rate this as good reloading brass.

    OH- and before anyone asks, might want to list wolf and all aluminum "brass" as JUNK not to be reloaded.
  4. Hi,

    Thanks Helms, I updated with the info you provided!

  5. Top marks for Remington and Winchester.

    I relegate Speer/CCI and Federal to target loads.

    BTW, TZZ is made by the Israeli Military Industries - very good brass.
  6. USELESS, and i mean it. I tried to make dummy rounds with it, and it would not fit in a case gauge. It serves only as a bad example.

    Speer is, IME, decent brass except for the funky concave case head.

    Selier and Bellot brass is good, IME, as i bought a case or two of 45ACP, shot it up and now reload it, seems fine to me.
  7. Hi,

    S&B - 2 votes good, 1 vote bad, I'm putting back on the shootable list...


  8. A couple of items from uncle.....

    In .40 S&W, brass from Federal marked "FC" should be avoided.
    If the headstamp reads "FEDERAL" it's good brass.
    There have been numerous changes made in Fed 40's, the latest stuff is very good brass, but I place the earlier stuff in the "iffy" catagory.

    As was mentioned, the Rem 9mm brass has a nice chamfer to the primer pocket, those folks loading 9's on a Lee 1000 should take note, this stuff makes a lee work a whole lot better.

    On the S&B and the Fed NATO spec, both have crimped primer pockets, although not all of the S&B is crimped, treat it as if it is & swage the primer pockets, it will save a ton of grief.

    uncle albert
  9. Hi,

    Thanks uncle!

  10. Juell

    Juell Gun Nut that is

    I have had some bad experiences with newer .38spl S&B brass, the primer pocket is noticibly smaller, and priming is a no-go.
    Older S&B is just fine in my experiences though. Maybe I just hit a wierd batch?
  11. freakshow10mm

    freakshow10mm 10mm Advocate

    If anyone has Amerc brass, they can send it to me. I use cartridge cases for making bullet jackets for bulet swaging. My address is on my website. Send whatever you want to get rid of. I can use it.
  12. Hi,

    Well S&B is the flip-flop of the group, I'm putting it back on the junk list with a note that sometimes it can be ok if you don't experience priming issues.

    Good luck,

  13. CCI is good to go for me.

    I reload the blazer CCI Brass all the time (in .45 ACP), nice big primer flash hole.

    It is stamped "CCI".

    The stuff that I've seen that's stamped SPEER is usually +P, I've reloaded that too with no problems, but not in the bulk I've reloaded CCI Brass.
  14. Anyone want to weigh in on Lake City brass?
  15. Yer the only one tout'n CCI and I would like others input on it.
  16. I've loaded the CCI "Blazer" brass in .45acp for USPSA & pins, seems to be fine.

    As far as L C brass, if there is any better for .223, .308 or .30-06, I haven't found it yet & I've been reloading for 30+ yrs.

    The LC Match brass is highly desirable, sorta like dating a supermodel that has her own Ferrari & her father has a liquor store & you get carte blanche to ALL of the above !

    uncle albert
  17. Some headstamp additions to freakshow10mm's post, with quality comments based on my experience:

    Fiocchi brass is stamped Fiocchi or GFL - excellent
    Winchester brass is stamped Winchester or WIN or WCC - excellent
    Federal brass is stamped FEDERAL or FC - excellent

    Prvi Partisan (Yugoslavia) brass is stamped PPU in cyrillic letters, looks like nny - not good in pistol calibers. Wrong primer pocket size, wrong primer type, eg. 45ACP brass with small primer pockets. Good in rifle calibers, and I believe Graf's rare caliber brass comes prom Prvi Partisan

    Igman Konjic (Yugoslavia) brass is stamped IK, good rifle brass. Never saw any pistol ammo from them.

    Malaysian military - stamped MAL, bad news. Heavily crimped in primer, too-small flash hole makes it almost non-reloadable

    Note on PMC brass: it varies greatly. PMC is just a holding company, and has been in and out of bankruptcy a few times. PMC started out as Pan-Metal Corp, then became Patton-Morgan Corp, etc. Their brass/ammo has been Korean/US/Russian in origin. Their Korean and US brass is fine.
  18. gwalchmai

    gwalchmai Lucky Member

    Please save me all your "junk" S&B brass. Also that Speer, CCI, and Fiocchi barely shootable stuff. My guns and presses don't read this thread and are under the impression that they're fine.

    Just let me know when you have a FRB full and I'll pay the shipping. (.45ACP & Colt, .44, .38 & .357, 9mm) ;)
  19. Vitamin G

    Vitamin G Got G?

    anyone familiar with MFS brass in 30-06?
  20. gwalchmai

    gwalchmai Lucky Member

    Nope, but I have a few thousand MFS .45ACP that I've reloaded four or five times and they're great.

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