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Can we create a stick on good vs bad brass to reload?

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by alank2, Mar 23, 2008.

  1. njl


    Sep 28, 2000
    NATO brass likely has crimped primer pockets which need to be dealt with before you try repriming them.
  2. In my experience with .38 spl brass I have found the following to be helpful:
    1: I seperate +P brass from regular and do not flush seat WC bullets in +P brass. Nickel Plated Brass +P seems to be even worse and the case bulges over the bullet unless it's a hollow base WC, and then the bullet distorts.
    2: Once Fired brass is seperated by make. After it's reloaded once it becomes "Used Multiple times" brass and although loaded the same way, it's practice brass only. I will sometimes load up a batch of 2x brass for a match where I know I'm not going to recover it.
    3: I seperate plated and non-plated brass in my " Used Multiple Times" Buckets
    4: I do not reload .38 spl "military" head stamped brass as I find it's thicker and tends to bulge over the loaded bullet.

  3. gwalchmai

    gwalchmai Lucky Member

    Jan 9, 2002
    Outside the perimeter
    I loaded some 124gr FMJ into once-fired 9mm S&B brass last night. They worked great, with only the slightest bit of extra resistance during priming. It may have been because I used Wolf SPPs. I'll measure the primers and see if they're slightly smaller. Maybe metric primers are slightly smaller than real ones...
  4. Geco brass any good I got some in 9mm.

    AMERC is junk I dont even attempt to reload goes in the recycle bucket every time.

    I have never had an issue with Winchester, and federal headstamped handgun brass. Some of the WCC with the NATO stamp had real tight primer pockets.
  5. mboylan


    May 11, 2007
    You have to swage the primer pockets on all military brass. The 5.56 guys do it all the time. That doesn't make the brass good or bad. It adds a step the first time you reload it.
  6. dt3ft

    dt3ft Infidel (كافر)

    Dec 28, 2010
    Germany, Europe
    I don't agree with Winchester beeing good brass. Especially with the WSM or WSSM cartridge series I had the case mouth split. I experienced far better results with Norma brass.

    good brass is:
    Dynamit Nobel AG (DAG)
    SAKO Ltd. (SAKO)
    Lapua (LAPUA)
    Rheinisch Westfalischen Sprengstoff (RWS)
    Gustav Genschow & Co./Dynamit Nobel/RWS (Geco)

    btw. afaik Eldorado Cartridge Corporation also has the headstamp PMC
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2011
  7. If you can find Fiocchi SP primers try them. They seat into S&B primer pockets much easier than CCI. I'm buying Fiocchi primers in Italy and probably they are available in USA as well. Beside better compatibility with S&B brass they cost less.
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2011
  8. flipside101


    Jan 9, 2011
    I reloaded about 1,000 rounds of Sellier & Beloit (S&B) and have yet to have a issue. 9mm loads
  9. firefighter4215


    Nov 2, 2009
    I ran across some 38 special brass with a S&W headstamp. They obviously have some age, but I doubt the age matters. Assuming they pass a visual inspection are they worth reloading? They're nickel plated also. I read online that Fiocchi made the ammo under contract. Anybody familiar with this stuff?
  10. VN350X10


    Apr 13, 2001
    McHenry, IL
    Could be Fiochhi, could be Federal. It would depend upon what bullet was in the brass OEM.
    The S&W Nyclad was made by Federal.
    Load it till it splits or you lose it. Being plated, splits will probably happen first.

    uncle albert
  11. firefighter4215


    Nov 2, 2009
    Ok. I figured it would be ok, but wanted to find someone who had more experience. I'm using a 125 grain Berry's plated with 4.3 grains of Bullseye so it's not a high pressure load anyway. Thanks.
  12. RRTX11


    Dec 27, 2010
    Central Texas
    second Lake City, best brass out there in my opinion.

    ARSMITH CenterFireBrass

    Feb 10, 2011
    Hmm. Interesting opinions of people. I personally don't care what kind of brass I am using, but I am partial to Federal in my 45 loads.
  14. integraracer157


    Feb 10, 2011
    Ive read all of this topic, and i hate to say it, But i think allot of brass gets a bad rap from impatient, and step skipping reloading. Ive been reloading 15 years. Just about every popular cal. With proper extra steps like flash hole deburring and primer pocket uniforming. you will see if a primer pocket is loose or tight. And all brass i have reloaded always needed the primer pocket cut uniform.
    I do agree AMERC is CRAP.

    If you just clean brass and load it. stick to RP.
  15. pyro1017


    Sep 30, 2011
    anybody had experience reloading bitterroot valley ammo? i found a bunch of it for really cheap and want to know if it reloads well. thx
  16. SCmasterblaster

    SCmasterblaster Millennium Member

    Sep 24, 1999
    Hartford, Vermont
    Your list looks pretty good, and I have been reloading 6 different hangun calibers since 1979. I'd give Speer a promotion, though.
  17. scccdoc


    Dec 28, 2011
    goforbroke,is your Federal marked "Federal" ? DOC
  18. albinlee


    May 6, 2010
    Seattle, WA
    I have reloaded alot of S&B in 9mm, and I would put it in the good category! I notice that the primer pocket is a bit deeper and smaller diameter, but we are talking microscopic. I have never had issues seating primers including Fed, Win, and CCI. Also, never had a FTF in my Glock 34 through hundreds of rounds fired with S&B brass. The key I think is to tumble clean your brass properly first.
  19. janice6

    janice6 Silver Member

    Apr 4, 2006
  20. cabrego


    Dec 19, 2011
    What do you guys think about blazer brass? I have some cleaned up and they are the cleanest brass in my mix of brass (blazer, federal, remington). (Sorry if it was mentioned I didn't see it in first page.