Can we create a stick on good vs bad brass to reload?

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by alank2, Mar 23, 2008.

  1. Hi everyone,

    I recall a thread not long ago where people were talking about how hard they inspect calibers, for example 9mm was inspected very hard because it is quite a strong case for the typical 9mm loads put on it, and 40sw was inspected more carefully because it is much closer to the "edge" than 9mm for example.

    Also was a list of good brass and bad brass.

    Could we create a sticky that would list calibers and everyone could chime in about headstamps considered good or bad. We could just have people post their experiences and update a top level message. Obviously there could be disagreements where one person says this headstamp is decent while another says it is trash, in which case we could go with 3 categories for headstamp: Good to go, Mixed Review, Junk Brass.

    Maybe a 1-5 rating on inspection necessity. 1=super strong brass, just a basic inspection down to 5=inspect it extremely well or its going to KB!.

    What do you guys think?

    I love to dig up all the free brass at the range, it sure would be nice to have a list of what to throw in the scrap bin right off the bat...

    Any brass not actually made of brass is of course junk. This includes Wolf steel cases and CCI blazer aluminum cases.

    In the format company name (headstamp [other headstamps])

    Good to go brass:
    Starline (*--* Two Stars with line between them)
    Winchester (Winchester, WIN, WCC?)
    Norma (Norma)
    Magtech (CBC)
    Hornady (Hornady)
    Independance (*I*)
    Israeli Military Industries (TZZ)
    Federal (Federal, FC that is not 40S&W)
    Eldorado (ELD)
    Remington (R-P, UMC)

    Shootable, but not as good:
    Speer (Speer)
    Precision Made Cartridge (PMC)
    Company? (HY)
    Aguila (Aguila)
    Fiocchi (Fiocchi)

    Junk Brass:
    American Ammunition (AMERC)
    Armscorp (ACP)
    Company? (NNY)
    Federal (FC that is 40S&W)
    Sellier & Beloit (S&B) - Mixed reviews, some ok, some bad, usually the problem is related to primer pocket size.




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    #1 alank2, Mar 23, 2008
    Last edited: May 26, 2013
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  3. AMERC=bad.

  4. mitchshrader

    mitchshrader Deceased

    Starline = Good
  5. Hi guys,

    Well that gets us started! After a bunch of posts I'll modify the first post to include a summary!

    I'll throw another one in, Winchester = good.

    Maybe we don't need to do it by caliber...


  6. Jeff82

    Jeff82 NRA Benefactor

    Maybe mention separating cases by weight and not mixing +p cases with non +p cases...
  7. I've shot a lot of "pickup" brass in my time, some say a bad habit, and they may be right. Nevertheless, through thousands of rounds I've had no reloading issues, except with the one headstamp that pops up in forums again and again, including this one- AMERC. Under no circumstances attempt to reload this stuff.

    (Note: I'm not including in this discussion things like aluminum or steel cases. This stufff should not be reloaded, and I'm assuming people on this forum know that.)
  8. fourrobert13

    fourrobert13 I am the law.

    Stay away from FC & AD brass when it comes to rifle reloading. Some one already covered amerc.

    I'll load up just about every thing else.:supergrin:
  9. Jeff82

    Jeff82 NRA Benefactor

    Ok. I'm just guessing here:
    FC=Frontier Cartridge and AD=anno Domini?

  10. Hi,

    If you can, please post the company and the headstamp.

    What is the deal with FC is this federal cartridge or something else? Is it good in some calibers and not others?


  11. Hi,

    I found a thread with some BigSlick wisdom I included.

    What is the deal on the NT marked stuff (not toxic). Does some of it work fine and others not?



    SILVERBACK32 Head Gorilla

    What's wrong with Speer?
  13. freakshow10mm

    freakshow10mm 10mm Advocate

    Hornady brass is stamped Hornady.
    Fiochi brass is stamped Fiochi
    Norma brass is stamped Norma.
    Winchester brass is stamped Winchester
    Federal brass is stamped FC
    ELD brass is Eldorado
    PMC stands for Precision Made Cartridge
    S&B is Sellier and Beloit (sp?)
    *I* is Independance
    Amerc is American Ammunition
    Aguila is stamped Aguila
    Starline is *--* but looks curved because the brass is round
    UMC brass is stamped UMC and is a Remington company
    Speer headstamp is Speer
  14. fourrobert13

    fourrobert13 I am the law.

    AD=Adcom pistol and rifle brass is crap. Loose primer pockets and the brass is brittle.

    FC=Federal rifle brass. Loose primer pockets and the brass is soft.

    If I come accross either, I pitch them.
  15. fourrobert13

    fourrobert13 I am the law.


    All of the NT stuff I came accross was 45 acp. It used small pistol primers instead of large. I didn't understand why, and I never attempted to load any of it.
  16. I think you should remove Speer from the not as good section!
    Speedrock likes this.
  17. Hi,

    Speer made it into its category because of the BigSlick post I found. Honestly, I don't care for the fact that they "skip operations" according to them to produce brass more cheaply. I think these "skip operations" are responsible for the concave case head which I think looks cheap even if it works fine.


  18. Hi,

    Thanks freakshow, I've assimilated your knowledge into the top message!

  19. Hi,

    If anyone can find the thread about how carefully people inspect different calibers, that would be great. I recall people talking about how they inspect some calibers just lightly and other calibers in very great detail. I tried to find it earlier but didn't.


  20. I saw the concave case head from speer and didn't like the look of it and scrapped them . I don't like to take chances .
  21. freakshow10mm

    freakshow10mm 10mm Advocate

    CBC is Magtech brass.

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