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Bow Hunters...I need help with bow accessories.

Discussion in 'Hunting, Fishing & Camping' started by trruuck, May 29, 2004.

  1. trruuck


    Nov 24, 2003
    I just purchased a new bow and it is time to buy accessories for it. If you have an opinion, any knowledge, or experience with an item, please let me know. Also, I am in desperate need of advise on which arrows to get, cause I don't know. I was considering Easton's XX75 or some Carbon Express.

    This is the bow: 2004 Fred Bear Vapor 300 29" Draw / 70lbs. Pull

    So far, this is what I am looking to purchase:
    All the limb saver stuff.

    BoDoodle Game Dropper Arrow Rest

    Trophy Ridge Nitro Xtreme 3-Pin Sight

    Timberland "No Peep" Rear Sight System
    or the

    Hind Sight Crossfire Sighting System

    Plano Bow Max Bow Case

    Crimson Talon Broadheads

    Alpine Archery Soft Loc 3 Arrow Quiver

    If you can suggest anything else, let me know. Thank You.
  2. Nice bow.

    Here's what I can suggestion everything you listed are good products. I myself use the carbon express 45/60 in the terminator series and they shoot fine out to 20yrds with one sight pin. I also bought some Goldtips a few months ago and they are very nice also. Both are yery durable and quiet arrows with the carbon-exp being slightly more in cost. I also looked into the hindsight sight but choose the follow-thru sight instead and have no complaints as of yet. This sight mirror with the tru-glo sight provides a big view and was very easy to sight in and adjust.

    This year will be my first time every bow-hunting but I have shot compounds off and on for about 7years now and I've been practicing since the start of the year just getting ready for this season.

    All I can say is just practice with whatever setup you get and shoot in the same enviroment that you plan to bow-hunt in.

  3. firminw


    Feb 27, 2004
    Lower you draw weight to 55 or 60 lbs. I know this isn't fashionable but it will help your bow last longer and will reduce handshock. It will not slow your arrow speed enough to even worry about. Anything you put on your limbs will slow your arrow speed down. Make sure you match your spine weight on your arrows to your draw weight. Dont shoot arrows for lighter or heavier bows just for speed or penetration. After 31 years of being an archer carbon arrows are the best thing to come along. Learn to shoot instinctively and forget all the sights. I've seen too many botched shots caused by sights to ever buy them or trust them. Be an archer first then a bowhunter. Bow hunting demands being ethical moreso than any other style even with the modern wonder bows. I know what I'm saying is'nt trendy or vogue but the woods are too full of people calling themselves bowhunters just because they have the latest stuff and no skill at either bows or hunting.
  4. f1b32oPTic

    f1b32oPTic R4d104c71v3

    Aug 5, 2003
    up close & personal
    i shoot a bowtech extreme vft with a 28" draw at 60lbs.

    i also shoot easton superslam xx78 aluminums and they are sweet,
    a 27" 2314 shaft with 5" helical gateway feathers
    and 100gr. 4 blade muzzy broadheads

    i use only 2 pins from 0-40 yards
    i use a large diameter peep sight and a mechanical release(winnfree flite).

    my 2003 bowkill dropped in her tracks with a 20 yard spine shot from my stand last season.

    here is a good place for archery information
  5. All that stuff looks good, when it comes to sights i like one that are made of metal and have metal pins, i would definatly get the peep sight, the reason is it helps with having a consistant draw point, I would definatly get the carbon arrows, and would lower the draw to 55-60, i used to shoot rocky mountain broadheads in the 100 grain 3 blade, I oregon were not allowed to use mechanical broad heads, but ive been told if you have the option mechanicals are the way to go, make sure you shoot your broadheads before the season opens, I suggest buying some extras, 3-6 of em for practice heads, in case you bend a head.
  6. Garweh

    Garweh CLM

    Aug 12, 2002
    Upstate New York
    Last year was my first year bowhunting, I bought a bow from a friend. Bow was fully equipped and ready to go. I could not get used to the peep sight. I replaced it with a hindsight, best move I ever made. I installed the hindsight myself and got it sighted in. Works just like ghost ring sights on a pistol. Very accurate as long as your anchor point is the same for every shot.
  7. trruuck


    Nov 24, 2003
    Thanks for the help.

    I have shot several bows before, and could never get used to using a peep sight. I know all about anchor points, and I will be getting a "Kisser" Button to assist in keeping the same anchor point.

    If anybody else has some opinions, please reply.
  8. Bowser


    Jul 18, 2000
    This is the best advice of this thread.
    This gentleman would appear to know what he is writing about.
  9. Michigun

    Michigun Miss Michigan?

    Mar 1, 2001
    Michigan, USA
    Can’t help ya… I use a crossbow! ;) (Although I wish I was able to use a ‘regular’ bow…)
  10. shrpshtr


    Jan 25, 2001
    Sumter, SC, USA

    nice looking bow you have there. fred bear bows are really starting to make a pretty good name for themselves. if your new to bow hunting and archery you are about to learn how much of an addiction this can become.

    let me touch on a couple of things previously mentioned. about dropping the bow weight, imo, this is strictly a preference thing. i shoot a hoyt provantage fast flight at 80lbs. i have been using that same bow for 13 years now and have never had a problem with limbs, riser, etc. the main factor in determining draw weight is what you can comfortably pull and hold for any length of time. my guidelines are as follows:

    1-Can you draw from a sitting position (in a tree stand)? (this is important because you never know when or where a deer, or other big game, is going to present a good shot.)

    2-Can you hold the draw for up to 60 seconds without getting fatigued and losing accuracy? (this is key because more often than not, you will have to wait for a good shot.)

    3-Can you draw the bow easily and control the release to prevent dry fire? (for example, if you draw, the shot doesn't present itself, can you safe let the bow down without hurting yourself or dryfiring the bow?)

    Find the weight that you are most comfortable with under those conditions.

    Next, the arrows, I use Easton xx75's. the 2213 model performs flawlessly for me and has for years. when carbon arrows first came out, they left a lot to be desired (splintering, etc.) so they weren't really worth the cost. the newer stuff (last couple of years) i hear is fantastic, i have just never gone away from the aluminium shafts. firminw makes a good point here about choosing the correct size for your draw and purpose. GET THE RIGHT SIZE ARROW for your setup.

    A real popular product nowadays are the "limbsavers". i agree with firminw also about attaching stuff to the limbs. i use simple string silencers to reduce noise. that's all you need.

    peep sights...most people i talk to have the same problems mentioned here with peep sights. they make several now with some pretty big openings to see through, even in low light conditions. i love them. i don't like the kisser buttons because of the fact that it doesn't really help get a good sight picture. more than anything, it is designed to be used for a consistent anchor. i use a piece of thread for an anchor. let me explain, when you attach a peep sight you seperate the bow string and physically put the peep into the string. then you use thread to tie off each end to hold the sight in. now, draw the bow back to full draw. (just like you intend to shoot) and look through the peep. center it with you sight pin just like you would crosshairs. then let your nose touch the string lightly as you hold your draw. have someone mark the string with a piece of chalk or whathaveyou. let your draw down and then take the extra piece of thread and rap it around the bow string where the chalk mark is. make sure to rap it good and tight and it will never move. now, when you draw, allow your nose to touch the same piece of string everytime you shoot. i like this anchor better because your head is always in the same position, angle with the string, and your eye is the same distance away from the peep "EVERY SINGLE TIME". unlike a kisser where your head may be tilted, etc. given the angle your looking. (let me know if you need more assistance with that setup.)

    sights, i have tried pendulums, fiber optics, etc. for sights and i always go back to my set of $15 TM Hunter metal pins. they are rugged, easily seen and dependable. you don't have to worry about them getting loose, etc. i use 2 pins also, 0-20 and 25-50. i get about 315fps so my trajectory is very flat out to 25 yards.

    broadheads, go with muzzy. i have tried satellites and a couple of different mechanical brands and don't get near the penetration that the muzzy's get. 125gr goes through bone and all. those crimsons you have the picture of in this post have a very similar design. i don't know if they perform the same though.

    rest...whatever rest you choose to go with, make sure to put heat-shrinkable tubing on it. this will prevent the metal on metal scraping noise your arrow will make as you draw the bow back. it keeps things nice and quiet.

    another tip, when shooting, if you use a release, take your thumb and rest it on the back of your neck when you draw. kinda like a catch. this ensures you're actually drawing the same length each time. a lot of people don't take that into consideration when shooting. as you draw you get fatigued. the distance you pull actually will decrease. it absolutely will affect the flight of the arrow. using your thumb will help eliminate this problem.

    one last thing, learn how to properly hunt with a bow. it is so much more rewarding in the end. anyway, hope this helps and welcome to archery and bow hunting.
  11. method


    Mar 27, 2002
    Cleveland, OH
    I can whole-heartedly recommend the No Peep, works very well.
  12. trruuck


    Nov 24, 2003
    Nice buck!
  13. Michigun

    Michigun Miss Michigan?

    Mar 1, 2001
    Michigan, USA
    Why thank you sir! ^c
  14. Dieseler

    Dieseler Temet nosce

    Jun 10, 2004
    N.E. Oklahoma
    I do not have any experiance with that bow so I cannot comment on it. But I think you'll find that any newer bow all shoot nicely, personally I'm in love with the Park Ultra-light 31! But it's a little out of my price range.

    Most stuff is all personal preference, all looks good to me really. The only change I would make would be the rest.

    Bodoodle makes an excellent rest, but I HIGHLY suggest going with a Wisker Biskit. Especially one of the new quickshot droptine/ deluxe models. It is very quite in the draw, full containment so the arrow cannot fall off the rest or cause noise, accuracy was as good as with my traditional 2prong. You'll loose a tad of speed, but well worth it to me.

    I didnt see a stabilizer listed, I would deffinetly grab one. You can drop some money on one easily but I'm perfectly happy with my old Xring hydraulic. One of the big reasons I havent swapped it out is because I like the 12in length rather than the shorter new ones. Seems to help stability to me. Tranquilizer seems to be a very popular choice as is the Doniker multi-rod.

    Other two accessories i didnt see listed are a release or wrist sling. The sling just gives a little confidence that you wont drop the bow while to me a release is essential for confortable shooting! There are so many styles and brands to choose from I can hardly start to suggest one though! Although the Tru-ball short n sweet has my eye right now.

    Have fun shooting! oh, a great forum for archery would be I've learned alot there and been able to improve my shot and tune by gear better thanks to advice from there.