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Barrel painting or coating?

Discussion in 'Black Rifle Forum' started by S&W686, Feb 14, 2010.

  1. S&W686

    S&W686 Christ follower

    Dec 19, 2002
    I think I asked this a while back but my memory is fading so here is my question?

    I have a DPMS AR-15 with 16" varmint barrel, using it mainly for coyote hunting. I would like to have the barrel "painted" or "coated" black?
    How would I do this ?
    Can I do this?
    How do I remove the ff handguard? I know a bunch of questions, thanks in advance for the answers.

    My rifle
  2. ottomatic


    Oct 15, 2002
    SW Tennessee
    With a setup like that you probably don't have to remove the handguard, as you probably only need to paint the front exposed area.
    Try using hi-temp paint such as for BBQ grills.

  3. S&W686

    S&W686 Christ follower

    Dec 19, 2002
    Thought about that just didn't think that was the "right" way to do it. Doing the entire barrel seemed to be the "right" way.
  4. blaster_54738


    Jul 24, 2007
    duracoat. if you want the entire thing done just remove the, i'm assuming set screws on the gas block and the free float tube should just unscrew.
  5. Gonetodarkside

    Gonetodarkside owl protector

    Feb 7, 2006
    you can duracoat it, but for the money its hard to beat plain black spray paint. Even better is the BBQ pit paint. I painted an AK with bbq pit pain about 5 years ago and it still looks great. Just painted my AR with olive drab krylon including barrel and supressor and it looks awesome.
  6. S&W686

    S&W686 Christ follower

    Dec 19, 2002
    If I remove the gas block and ff handguard do I need and special tools other than an allen wrench for the gas block. Think I would need to do any prep on the barrel, other than "de-greasing"?

    MAJINKONG Sr. Member

    Dec 24, 2002
    Free Flood
    Alumina Hyde... try it
  8. Jumper


    Jun 10, 2002
    MI USA
    Check the gas block where the gas tube exits. Look for a small roll pin that holds the tube in the block. If there is one you'll need a small drift punch to remove it. And I believe those roll pins have to be driven out from right to left or left to right, but I think they only come out one way. Someone else with more know-how will have to chime in.
  9. If you are going to Duracoat it I'd leave the gas block on. The fit of the gas block is very tight and the thickness of the Duracoat would make it impossible to get the gas block back on without scratching it all up.

    If your free float hand guard won't come off without removing the gas block first I would just leave it all on and spray away.

    You'll probably need a strap wrench to remove the free float tube.

    Duracoat recommends blasting the metal with 180 grit aluminum oxide before applying the Duracoat. It roughs up the metal and really makes it adhere better.