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Anyone notice Lee Upgraded the LoadMaster Primer setup.

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by Colorado4Wheel, Sep 23, 2011.


  1. Colorado4Wheel

    Colorado4Wheel
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    http://leeprecision.com/xcart/SM-LM-P-TROUGH-ASSEM-BLK.html

    Not sure what to say about it. My LM worked fine except priming. IF this new priming setup works then that really changes the LoadMaster world.

    I wonder if the primer is actually supported as it goes into the primer pocket or if it's just perched on top of the punch like in the past.
     

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  2. Wash-ar15

    Wash-ar15
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    looks the same as the old one. what did they modify?
     

  3. Colorado4Wheel

    Colorado4Wheel
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    I don't know for sure. They describe it a little in that link.
     
  4. Wash-ar15

    Wash-ar15
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    I have not broken a slider in a long time. Never had much problem the the primer system either
     
  5. skeeter7

    skeeter7
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    I think I have only broken one primer slider and that was during the initial setup. My press has been running pretty well, no complaints here.
     
  6. Colorado4Wheel

    Colorado4Wheel
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    I never broke a slider either. Of course it didn't prime very well either. I am sure Lee didn't redesign the system for nothing.
     
  7. Uncle Don

    Uncle Don
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    Based on posts of people having problems with the priming system, I suspect they were sendng out allot of primer sliders. I can't really tell what this one is doing that is different than the old.

    Guess if I ever need one, that will be the only one available, but after bending the first two sliders, I figured out why it happend and haven't had a problem since.
     
  8. Wash-ar15

    Wash-ar15
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    I realized that after breaking a few of them, that its a timing issue. I redid everything according to the vids and its not had a bad slider since.
    Now I've got about 10 of them sitting around with nothing to do.
     
    #8 Wash-ar15, Sep 25, 2011
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2011
  9. PsychoKnight

    PsychoKnight
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    I loved and hated my LM. I'm eager to find out what's going one with the new primer design. It probably won't help if a previously non-Lee user gets a new LM and describes it. Its gonna take somebody w/ past experience to properly explain the changes and critique if its a significant improvement.

    I love my LnL AP, especially after all the mods I applied. But I'd buy a LM the minute I was convinced they fixed the primer issue and woul relegate the AP to a less often used caliber.
     
  10. Colorado4Wheel

    Colorado4Wheel
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    I actually would keep my 650. It's just too freaking good. But, and this is significant. If the LM primed properly I would recommend it with out reservation. That is the only problem I had. EVERYTHING else about that press was brilliant in it's simplicity. It was a great press besides that. You could even hook a Dillon Casefeeder to it and it would be like a little 1050.
     
  11. WiskyT

    WiskyT
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    Just get a Pro1000. The only reason they came out with the LM is for marketing purposes. Dillon has big machines, Lee needed a big machine. Lee makes the FCD, Lee markets a machine that has a hole for it.

    Three holes is plenty. The Pro1000 actually works. It costs half what the LM does. The Pro1000 aint no 650, but for what it does, and what it costs, it's a good deal.
     
  12. Colorado4Wheel

    Colorado4Wheel
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    So why does the Pro 1000 primer setup work while the LM is a pita. To me they look the same. Plus, I know plenty who hated the Pro 1000 primer setup as well.
     
  13. Wash-ar15

    Wash-ar15
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    I have both a pro k and a LM. I load 45acp on the pro and 9/40 on the LM. both work perfect on 45 and 40, but its a little sensitive on 9mm. I attribute it to the fact I do not sort my 9mm brass and the that lee uses 1 plate for 9/40. this allows the 9mm to move around slightly when priming. the last run I did I loaded 500 9mm and got 6-7 cocked primers. On 40 it maybe 1 per 1k. My 45 pro has never had any problems. I loaded 200rd just last night.

    One thing I have found that causes a lot of problems in lee machines is the mounting. they must be mounted on a FIRM mount. my table is bolted to concrete so it does not move at all.
     
  14. WiskyT

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    You have to operate the press slowly but steadily. My father, who was very handy and repaired very complicated power systems as an engineer for a living, couldn't run my P1000. He crushed every third primer. I crush maybe one out of a thousand. It takes a certain finesse.

    I can't answer to any similarity regarding the LM because I've never seen one, but I think they are totally different. The P1000 is about as simple as it gets. It's a chute and a punch. The punch won't drop down to release a primer unless a case activates it. If you flail away on the handle, it will allow the case sensor to trip and feed a primer before it is ready. Then the plate rotates and knock the primer out of where it should be and it gets crushed.

    My 650 never crushes primers, but for the $900.00 price difference, you can eat an awful lot of primers and still be way ahead of the game.
     
  15. PsychoKnight

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    If it was a four holer, or if I shot revolver rounds - but I like doing the seating and taper crimping separately too much to go back to a crimp-seater. Those Redding Comp dies are so smooth . . . (and expensive, but worth it)
     
    #15 PsychoKnight, Oct 2, 2011
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2011
  16. fourrobert13

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    I had a LM and the Pro 1000 and on both presses the priming system blew up. Some how something got hung up, but I got no warning. Neither press hung up. All I got was a kaboom and several small cuts from the small explosions. The LM was fast when it ran right and if they did correct the problem, it would be a machine worth having. The Pro 1000 was ok, but you had to go slow with it. I like fast, so I got rid of both of them and went blue. Even if they fixed the issue though; I'll stick with my blue press. Just my take on it.
     
  17. WiskyT

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    I don't get the hole crimp and seat in seperate stages thing. I've been reloading for 26 years, almost all with lead bullets, some with plated, and I see no difference in the ammo made with my 650 that crimps in a seperate step. If somebody figured out a way to make a two hole press, I'd buy that.
     
  18. PsychoKnight

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    I don't see any difference either, nor can I measure it or discern any superiority in a finished round. Its all on principle. I don't like the idea of a snug object being squeezed as its being inserted. I like it squeezed after its all the way in. Reminds me of my younger days - but gotta keep this board classy. As long as I don't have to see those Lee balls on a toilet-chain-turned-necklace, I'm okay.
     
    #18 PsychoKnight, Oct 2, 2011
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2011
  19. Uncle Don

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    Actually, a properly set seater/crimper die does just that.
     
  20. Colorado4Wheel

    Colorado4Wheel
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    Logic says that as a bullet is being seated it's moving in the case. Logic says as a case is being deflared it's being pushed in. Unless you want to live with a little outward flare (very small amount) you have to push the case past perfectly straight to get it straight. This is due to the spring in most metals. If both are happening at once then setting up a seat/crimp die at the same time is going to be a little trickier. Especially with Moly and Lead.