.40 S&W with a glock?

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by Ripro, Jan 22, 2012.

  1. Ripro

    Ripro Ripro

    Hey all,

    I have read a lot about the bulge that can occur when you fire ammo through a Glock barrel. I have just started reloading and have all the ingredients together to start making ammo, but I still have that (what if the brass is bulged) idea in the back of my head. I bought the Lee deluxe 4 die set, so am I safe to say that if I run my brass through the carbide sizing die/decapper that the die will get rid of a bulge that I did not notice before I put the brass in there? I have so many other questions about reloading but I need to get to the bottom of this first for a little piece of mind that I don't blow my brand new Glock 27-G4 up, or worse blow my hand to smithereens.

    Thank you,

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  3. As with any gun and caliber if you stay away from max loads and use light to midrange loads, you will have no problem.

    #2 ColoCG, Jan 22, 2012
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2012
  4. Goldstar225

    Goldstar225 NRA member

    I've been reloading "glocked" brass for use in a glock for at least 15 years with no problems. My loads do tend to be conservative (below max, no lead bullets).
  5. ^^THIS^^ Guys trying to make major w/ the wrong powder in their GLocks is really the issue, not the GLock bbl.
  6. robin303

    robin303 Helicopter Nut

    I also have the Lee 4 die set and reloaded for my 23 without any problems. I reuse my brass untill it splits or loose it at the range. I have come across a couple bulged brass and just toss them.
  7. ipscshooter

    ipscshooter Mostly IDPA now

    Glock .40 barrels have better support today than years ago. As said stay below max loads and see how it works out. I suggest staying away from lead bullets unless you are committed to keeping chamber and barrel clean or consider a conventionally rifled barrel. You might search "reloading forum" for many threads on lead in Glock barrels.

    If buldging becomes a problem and you shoot a lot look at Case Pro http://www.casepro100.com/ This works very well. I had one for years before push thru dies.

    Or for a less expensive alternative look at


    Reports say this works well. Check Brian Enos forums.
  8. Dogue

    Dogue Trouble Maker

    Just make sure your sizing die is getting all the way down to the shell plate and don't try to load .40 to run .357 SIG speeds and you should be fine.

    I do run some random rounds through a Wilson Case Gauge, which I admittedly don't do with other pistol calibers. The case gauge is tighter than a Glock chamber and will/would identify a bulge in your rounds pretty easily.
    #7 Dogue, Jan 22, 2012
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2012
  9. Steve Koski

    Steve Koski Got Insurance?
    Millennium Member

    Just don't reload. It's for godless heathen types.
  10. ron59

    ron59 Bustin Caps

    The Glock "bulge" is from the old days, the early versions of the .40s.

    It's not the problem it once was. Lots of people reload .40, go ahead.
  11. I just started in the reloading realm myself. I did notice the bulge in the cases, and this is from my 23 GEN 4. I ran them through my lee 4 die set and they are now in perfect shape. In my very humble and novice opinion, I will stick to starting loads and make sure to run them through the factory crimp die to ensure that they are in spec. Also, I think the only issue with the bulging would be excessive case wear, which would only reduce the life of the case.
  12. Ripro

    Ripro Ripro

    Thanks for your comments except "It's for godless heathen types." heathen maybe, godless no. I will prob get a case gauge until I get a little more experience. thanks again.
  13. shotgunred

    shotgunred reloading nut

    The best case gauge you can use is your barrel. Take it out of your gun. Then use it as a case gauge and make sure that the cartridges fall in and out of your chamber without force.
  14. And make sure the base of the cartridge doesn't extend beyond the hood of the barrel. This isn't all that likely unless the bullet hits the rifling but it can still happen. While you're looking at the base, check that the primer is below the surface.

    Also, make sure the round will fit in the magazine and will run up the feed ramp.

  15. dkf


    If you want to remove the small bulge you could pick up a Lee Bulge buster kit. The bulge buster kit uses the factory crimp die which you already have in your current Lee 4 die set. So for under $20 you can get the kit to remove the bulge. There really isn't any need to use the FCD anyway unless you prefer to crimp seperatly.

    I noticed that the .40 Glock barrels I have have a looser chamber than the .357sig Glock barrels. The feed ramp is also cut out more on the .40. I still get a small "smiley" with either barrel but it is just more pronounced on the .40 do to the looser barrel.
    #14 dkf, Jan 23, 2012
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2012
  16. rpgman

    rpgman SCGLOCK

    I re-load for my G27 Gen4 on my Dillon xl650 and on my Lyman T-Mag II Turret press and have never had an issue loading .40.
  17. Bulge cases are from Gen 2 barrels. If you have a Gen 3 or 4 your fine just remember to full lenght resize and you'll be just fine. may I suggest that you follow your manufacture instructions on setting up your re-sizing die.
  18. I just wonder how we ever loaded 10 of thousands of 40s&w rounds without a bulge buster or G-rx. Before there was any of those. And somehow never managed to blow up a gun, feeding problems and also using range pickup brass that where even shot out of a Glock. Yes there was some that had a nice bulge in the brass. If I remember right they were Federal brass. Those just went into the trash. I don’t shoot 40s&w anymore but I still pick up the brass and I don’t think I have seen any bulged brass in quite a few years now.
    With people out there that hates Glocks. I don’t think the Glock bulge myth will ever go away. Even with the newer Glocks that have a better supported chamber, and ammo companies making better brass.
  19. We could get into the subject of "supported" and "non-supported" barrels but not worth the aggravation it would bring. Need-less-to-say, you're just fine and 9 times out of 10 (even if you do come across a piece of brass with the bulge) your case gage or pistole barrel will detect it immediately as it will not seat the reload. Seldom do I come across one with a bulge and I do like someone earlier mentioned "CHUCK IT OUT". This coupled with safe loading practices and recipes and you'll be just fine. Enjoy
  20. Does anyone know when the barrels were corrected? I want to check my serial number to see if mine's the "fixed" barrel or not.
  21. Around 1% of the brass I reload doesn't drop into my case gauge without pressure (but drops in the barrel fine). I run these cases through the Redding GRx (although it probably isn't really necessary). I shoot through a stock G23, gen 3, although I imagine some of the brass I reload is range pickup that probably came from some other gun.

    I think that by Gen 3, any possible problems were "fixed." Go up to the "valuable info" area of GT to check dates. But like others posted, I reload brass until lost or split.

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