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.357 Sig

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by G-31, Jan 27, 2010.

  1. G-31

    G-31 .357 Sig

    360
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    Jul 18, 2009
    Grand Junction, CO
    If your talking to me I figured out that I wasn't completely inserting the cases into the die and not resizing them correctly, I figured that out when I had the same issue with some .233's. To everyone else I have bought several more books including the ABC's which I just finished so thanks for the advice. If anyone needs a laugh I put an unlubed .223 case into my resizing die and effectively destroyed the die getting it out. I'm sure I'll have more questions soon but for now thanks for the help.
     
  2. fredj338

    fredj338

    21,708
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    Dec 22, 2004
    so.cal.
    Yep, $20 for a book & reading the instructions before reloading; priceless. Maybe RCBS will give you another die if you send it back. A note, should you get the case stuck again, there are tools designed for removing it w/o damaging the die. Always best to ask questions. I know it's a guy thing, you know, we always know what we are doing & where we are going, who needs directions? Really though, in reloading ammunition, if you fail to study & follow directions, you can seriously hurt yourself, ruin equip (oh yeah, you know that) or a gun. Be safe.:whistling:
     

    Last edited: Feb 7, 2010

  3. nraman

    nraman

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    Dec 9, 2002
    No need to destroy the die. There is a kit from RCBS that removes stuck cases.
    I use something similar. A socket, a drill bit, a tap and some washers.
    I drill and tap through the primer hole 1/4x24 I then use the socket and a 1/4x24 bolt to pull the stuck case.
     
  4. shotgunred

    shotgunred local trouble maker

    8,741
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    Mar 1, 2008
    Washington (the state)
    Laugh? We have all stuck a case at one time or other.
    Use this for future reference.
    http://ultimatereloader.com/?page_id=366
    You don't need a lathe though. A 1/4 inch $10 tap and drill set from you local hardware store and a hand drill work fine. I also use a deep socket for my spacer rather than some nuts. but it will get your case out without hurting your die.

    Also did you mention what press you were using?
    what is your 40 load? bullet weight? powder and charge?
    It is real important with the 40 to start with a medium burning powder and not to go for top pressure loads.
     
  5. G-31

    G-31 .357 Sig

    360
    0
    Jul 18, 2009
    Grand Junction, CO
    Thanks guys I'll get that case remover. I've got an RCBS press but at the moment I can't say what load I'm using because I live in a dorm and don't bring any of that stuff here. I have been using unique and power pistol for the handgun rounds, for .40 the bullet weights have been I think 155 and I've tried 180 too. Kind of experimenting for now but I've been staying towards the middle on pressure because this is very new to me. I do have one other question though, I see there are so many types of powder, bullets and recommendations on loads, did you guys try a bunch out when you started or did you find something that worked and stick with it? Going to shoot some right now so I'll be back tonight if I have any issues, thanks again.
     
  6. fredj338

    fredj338

    21,708
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    Dec 22, 2004
    so.cal.
    I recommend one powder & one bullet to start with. Too many vraiables & components around are an accident waiting to happen. Load the wrong powder & charge under the wrong bullet & kiss your new gun goodbye.:wow:
     
  7. G-31

    G-31 .357 Sig

    360
    0
    Jul 18, 2009
    Grand Junction, CO
    That's actually good news to me, I'm meticulous enough not switch things up but I think I'm gonna settle on the power pistol for a while. I shot about 130 rounds of .40 and 130 .357 today and all the rounds went off, I had three jams in the .40 but the .357 didn't have any issues. If anyone could provide me on some insight as to why my reloads jam I'd be very appreciative, also I've been looking at some wolf primers but am kind of skeptical cause of the price, has anyone had any experience with these? Thanks.
     
  8. Bret

    Bret Crimping Master

    473
    2
    Jan 21, 2003
    North Georgia
    As the final step, did you taper crimp the cartridge to remove the case mouth flare from the belling step?
     
  9. nraman

    nraman

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    Dec 9, 2002
    I have been planning to reload the 357Sig just didn't get around to doing it. I bought a set of Lee dies including what I think is their "factory crimp" die. Wouldn't such a die be better?
     
  10. G-31

    G-31 .357 Sig

    360
    0
    Jul 18, 2009
    Grand Junction, CO
    No I didn't, may I ask how any jams would be caused by no crimp?
     
  11. fredj338

    fredj338

    21,708
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    Dec 22, 2004
    so.cal.
    All handgun ammo should have an appropriate crimp for reliable functioning. If you are expanding the mouth of the case, even slightly (as you should be), then you must turn that expanded mouth back straight or slightly into the bullet.
    What kind of "jamb"? Failure to chamber, feed, what? Failur to chamber can be not crimping properly/adequately, or a bullet too long. Nose down jamb can be OAL too short. Nose up, OAL too long. Yes, reloading reliable, accurate ammo is a bit more comlicated than just stuffing powder & bullets together in a case.
    Wolf primers will work fine. I find them a bit lrager in diameter & can cause you some seating issues. With the LP rpimers, I found them a bit hotter than CCI or Fed. So if you are running max loads, I would back off the powder charge 0.1gr to compensate.
     
  12. G-31

    G-31 .357 Sig

    360
    0
    Jul 18, 2009
    Grand Junction, CO
    Thank you Fred for the very helpful info, I guess my OAL was too long on those rounds.
     
  13. nraman

    nraman

    2,452
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    Dec 9, 2002
    Where is the head space for the 357Sig. The case mouth or the shoulder?
    If it is the case mouth then a taper or factory crimp is needed, if it is at the shoulder, a roll crimp would be the best.
     
  14. nraman

    nraman

    2,452
    435
    Dec 9, 2002
    I found the answer, it headspaces at the case mouth.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.357_SIG
     
  15. 380Seecamp

    380Seecamp

    2,653
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    Mar 10, 2007
    That is correct, although as Fred likes to point out, the shoulder can be used for headspacing as well.
     
  16. Bret

    Bret Crimping Master

    473
    2
    Jan 21, 2003
    North Georgia
    What was the overall length and how specifically did it jam?
     
  17. G-31

    G-31 .357 Sig

    360
    0
    Jul 18, 2009
    Grand Junction, CO
    They should have all been the same but 2 rounds had there nose pointed up (which was the strangest thing I'd ever seen) and another didn't kick out fast enough and got caught by the slide.
     
  18. fredj338

    fredj338

    21,708
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    Dec 22, 2004
    so.cal.
    No wiki is wrong, as was RCBS when they first came out w/ their dies. The round headspaces on the small shoulder. You could roll crimp, but most dies are setup for taper crimp & you need a cannelure exactly at the right place for proper OAL. SO taper crimp works. I've heard many 357sig reloaders having issues w/ early RCBS die sets. Lee, Hornady & especially Dillon (carbide sizer) got it correct. Here is a very good article on the relaoding of the 357sig. After you read it, it's pretty obvious where the case headspaces. http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar65.htm
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2010
  19. Bret

    Bret Crimping Master

    473
    2
    Jan 21, 2003
    North Georgia
    Not to throw a grenade in to the whole where does 357Sig headspace discussion, but in reality it likely doesn't headspace on the shoulder or the case mouth. Like the vast majority of auto pistol cartridges, it will most likely headspace on the extractor. The extractor is what controlls the fore and aft movement of the cartridge. You can measure the headspace from the mid point on the shoulder or the case mouth to the bottom of the case.